Long Travel BS Thread

Gonna order front bypasses this weekend I hope. I've got the Camburg kit, I've seen people run 8" bypasses and then 10". Is there a reason I should go with 10"? Or just run the normal 8"?

 

2" in the front is a pretty sizable difference in regard to fit, you should cycle your front end to assess the extended and collapsed lengths or call Camburg to make sure what will actually fit with whatever brand of secondary hoops you have

 

Yea that's what I was thinking. And I'll be making custom towers/engine cross over chinga. No way I'm dropping 400$ for towers lol I'll just do the 8", but I was wondering if there's any advantage for the 10" with the 8" coil over

 

I don't have personal experience with that but it does not seem that having a longer stroke bypass than your CO would do any good but wait for one of the " pros " here to verify that for you

 

10" is a waste if you have an 8" coilover. First of all your brake booster will be in the way. Second the bypass tubes will not work right. If you mount so full bump works then it wont droop far enough to fall out of the rebound tube. If you mount low enough for the rebound tube to work then you wont bottom out the shock and you lose bump ability. 10" coilovers can be arguable sine you can use dual rate springs but a 10" bypass will actually be worse

 

i think it would help by adding extra oil volume? like a 2.5x8 holds less shock oil then a 2.5x10 so the 10 would stay cooler than an 8? kinda like running a 2.5 vs a 3.0 but im just speculating.

 

The added oil does it mean squat for 99% of the trucks in here. Not using your full potential of your shock travel is what the problem is. You might as well be running a smooth body shock at that point if you're going to go with such a long shock.

 

Ok sweet that what I was thinking, that 2" of the shock stroke not being used and then not getting the potential of the tubes. I'll go with 8s then. Seems pointless to run a bypasses longer than the coil over that's what I was scratching my head over

 

One last noob question, what valving do you guys think I should go with? Also need to revalve the coilovers too

 

Asking again because all I got was some tape measure joke as a helpful response. For my alignment do I go as close to stock numbers as possible or are there differences that I need to look for? SOLO 4x4 kit.

 

Pretty sure you need positive caster right? So the spindle is sitting at like a / angle?

 

I'm not sure at all man, first LT install. I think most of the alignment with the tape would be done in some sort of methodological way (like jberry showed in his build), but I didn't know if anything had to be over or under besides some toe in.

 

0 toe or ever so slightly in.
0 camber or possibly -.5 if you want it the corner a bit better.
3 to 4 degrees positive castor would be ideal.

 

It's my dd too so would those still be good numbers? ^^^^^^

 

Yeah they will be good. If you want even wear on the the front tires then go as close to 0 toe and 0 camber as possible, positive caster leans the spindle back in the wheel well which gives you the return to center after turning and stops the wandering.

 

Thank you buddy, appreciate that

 

No problem

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2J8dtE9mlBg