45acp’s DIVORCED build!

I'm finally getting around to cleaning up the engine parts and getting them prepped for paint and reassembly. I gave up on the toothbrush and degreaser approach on the block and took it in to a shop last week to get professionally cleaned. I wasn't sure what color I was going to paint it at first but decided I'll be going for a clear coat for both the aluminum and cast iron parts, topped off with the red LCE valve cover.

DSC00142 by Jonathan K, on Flickr

I made a mistake before my most recent trip to Colorado/Wyoming and seafoamed the '81s engine. Now that it cleared out all the build-up, my best estimate is the truck is burning through an entire quart of oil... every 500 miles.

Some pics from the trip-

Sunrise just after getting over the Wyoming border
LrMobile0412-2015-04518371591316381 by Jonathan K, on Flickr

At my aunt and uncle's in Morrison, Colorado
LrMobile0412-2015-014674035793160046 by Jonathan K, on Flickr

Met up with a local WI member (Dannyk35) and this is likely the first time these generations have been pictured together. The mini - mid size comparison is nowhere near as big as I thought.

 

We got one for Eric's truck but it didn't arrive in time to get it installed, so I got to drool over it for a few weeks. I'm usually a cheap bastard but the quality is so nice that I wouldn't hesitate to get some of his switch panels for my truck.

 

Thanks! Yeah I plan on wiring the controls into the cab for sure and relocating the solenoid to the engine bay. I dig that but I already have a similar setup wired in that location.

 

Yeah happened with my dads 83 Corolla. Older brother used seafoam on it back in 98 and all the carbon and crap that was holding the engine together was blown out. Now you're going to have to replace those piston rings at the very least...

 

Nice 1st gen! I just picked up an 80 longbed with a rust free cab and a built 20r. Im located north of Rapid City in South Dakota. You probly drove right through here on your way to CO! Or did you take the other route through Douglas WY on the interstate?

 

I usually take I-80 since it's a little faster and more gas stations along the way. I've taken I-90 a few times and prefer that drive a lot more though.

 

So as I mentioned, I took the block to an engine shop to get cleaned so I could paint it. $72 for "buff and caustic spray" and it looked like this -

DSC00142 by Jonathan K, on Flickr

I assumed the 'caustic spray' was to remove the rust, dirt, oil, etc. I assumed the above was the bare metal itself.

I install the new freeze plugs and to insure the block was clean and fully prepped, I broke out the brake kleen. 3 cans later, it looks like this.

IMG_20160101_184756754 by Jonathan K, on Flickr

So I'm not sure WTF 'caustic spray' is now, because it looks like a paint to me. Not sure what the $72 was for.

Regardless, along with primer and a gloss clear coat, I used the VHT 'cast iron' colored engine enamel. I added a gloss clear coat solely to help keep dirt/etc from adhering and make it easier to clean.

DSC00145 by Jonathan K, on Flickr

 

Painted the timing chain cover and associated parts. New water pump, thermostat and gaskets all around. I replaced the STUPID oil pump phillips head screws with hex key. Also removed the OE dipstick base, tapped and plugged it so I can relocate the dipstick towards the rear to accommodate for the Dana 60 at full bump and rear sump conversion.

DSC00149 by Jonathan K, on Flickr

 

shiny

 

Could use anyone's 2 cents on this...

What to do about the thermostat. Should I go with OEM? Perhaps an in-line style like the C&R? Run a 'fail-safe' but allow it to remain open at all times? Don't run a thermostat at all?? I'm lost.

Also, coolant routing. I know there are block off plates available for the cylinder head rear cover, but I assume those are meant for engines that only see short pulls on a track.
So if I route the coolant hose from the back of the cylinder head to the bypass just below the OEM thermostat housing, wouldn't this be counterproductive to engine cooling? Unless I'm aiming for a certain temp, would I be better off routing the coolant to the passenger side outlet at the front and run without a thermostat?

 

Pulling coolant from the back of the head and dumping it behind the thermostat should be fine. I would just run an OEM thermostat.

 

OEM with a cooler temp will be fine I think.

 

OEM came stock with an 82C. I tested before I was going to put it back in, but it was unresponsive. I assume the wax went bad or something since it's been out of the truck for so long.

Isn't the aim being the lowest temps possible?

 

See if there is one that's cooler I know Trd and URD have em for the v6s for boosted applications.

 

Yeah, 82C is the lowest LCE has. They say 91C/195F is stock so I can only assume it was replaced at some point. Looks like URD has a 170F but I have no idea if thermostats are interchangeable.

 

Be careful running lower T-Stats. Some engines (LS series) are designed to run at optimal performance in a certain temp range.

 

Technically no, you still want the engine to get to operating temperature. A lower thermostat will just open sooner and facilitate cooldown since it wont close as early.

 

True, but I assumed those temperature ranges would be different considering the modifications that allow the engine to be pushed way beyond what it was designed for.

 

A 71C/160F. Nippon = Denso = OE, right?

http://ntacwv.com/index.php?page=sh...category_id=2&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=12

Found via this article

http://www.superstreetonline.com/how-to/aftermarket-parts/1308-low-temp-thermostats/