2nd Gen 4x4 35s 3" Lift w/o BODY LIFT

Jigsaw ftw, used a Dremel on a few sections of the flare because I cut so much out (couldn't fit jigsaw feet )

cut off wheel on my front, took a little bit of time. This was before I tried the jig saw method on the back.

 

Jigsaw, with a grinder and cut off wheel for the front.

 

I used burless metal snips and an angle grinder to get it started. It was like cutting the fender with scissors and left a super clean cut.

 

Just buy a 4" silicone 90deg elbow fitting and just slap it on when needed(facing the cab and tilted up for best protection from splashes coming up through engine bay), takes 1min. I started taking in water in heavy rain, multiple misfire code and bad shaking at idle. Replaced the filter real quick and threw on the fitting I had and was good to go. Now I have my snorkel all hooked up so its all good, but that fitting helped me out for sure

 

I would disagree with that. There are no facts to back that up and in fact, any aftermarket gearset will be stronger than the factory gears, assuming it is set up correctly. Here's just one example:

http://gearinstalls.com/410suck.htm

 

Hmm odd because I have seen stock vs 4.88 Yukon side by side and the 4.88 was clearly a thinner ring ...must Google more now...

 

There is 2 different sets, a thick and a regular. I have 4.88 Thick in mine. The regular are made for older diffs

 

The wait for tires has been the longest week of my life.... also +1 for jigsaw

 

What are you guy's turning for rpm's at 80 with 4.88s, and how much extra weight are you carrying?

I'm not going to be running 35's any time soon so sorry for mucking up this thread, but I carry a bunch of extra weight and will be going to 33's. My 4cyl has to work pretty hard as it is with 32's and all the weight I carry. There are some hills where I'm at right now that second can't pull unless I hit them close to 4k, and that's a little uncalled for IMHO.

 

I'm right around 3k doing 80, depending on a few factors..

 

Thank you. That's the in formation I needed and that's right where I am right now. Now I just need to make a decision.

 

No problems, I can get you a accurate read next time I drive... I had 255/85s with my 4.88s for about a month, truck felt like it did with the stock 4.10 gearing and grand trek tires

 

I'm sure the excitement of 35's will wear off as soon as I try and drive it lol... gears won't be in till the 17th I'm jumping from 265's and I'm heavy as hell with all the plate on my truck plus the rtt lol

 

Yep. Dead on 3k at 80. My truck runs fantastic at that speed on flat ground or slight hills, especially after putting on my heavy ass bead locks. I usually average about 15 mpg on trips doing 80+ with the bed and cab loaded down with all the camping gear, spare parts and tools. Probably an extra #500 more then normal. When I drive 70ish on the interstate around the city I get about 19.

If you plan on sticking with 33s for now, 4.88s were great for the two weeks I ran it like that. Rpms were about 200 higher, which isn't much, but power was much much better. I'd run 5.29s right now with 35s if someone made them for the front diff. The power increase is pretty substantial. Much more noticeable then headers

 

How the fluck are you getting that kind of gas mileage on 35's at 3k rpm !? 19 mpg too !? That's impossible ? These trucks load with 35's get 12 mpg

 

He has a 4 banga. I get 16 mpg with 4.56s and 36s, just drive like a jew and you're in the clear

 

Yeah, I wanted 5.29s. What brand beadlock are you running?

 

16 is still ridiculously good / unbelievable for a 4.0 on 35's+

 

Whoa. Calm down sir

I drive slow

I built them. Black rock steel wheels, 16x10 -38 offset, jester fab bead locks rings and welded everything up. 1 wheel and ring combo was shipped at #52 plus 32 3/8"x2" grade 8 bolts, 32 lock nuts and 64 washers. It's a heavy wheel and my truck rides noticeably smoother at all speeds and it's easier to maintain high speeds

 

Damn I want some, probably end up building some when I break my scs wheels