To Taco or not to Taco, that is the question?

I thought Toyota says 6400 lbs towing for the Taco. Are the broshures wrong? The Canyon specs say 7000lbs.

 

I just looked it up again. Taco is 3500, Tundra is 6400 to 10500.

Edit - if you do not get the tow package the Tacoma's tow rating is 3500. If you get the tow package that tow rating jumps to 6800 depending on configuration.

My truck as configured 4x4 Auto Trans double cab with Tow Package is 6400!!

See this brochure for details on curb weight, GCWR, GVWR, Payload, and bumper weight. It's got it all spelled out. This will get you in the ball park. The only way to be spot on is to load up and go to the scales.

http://www.toyota.com/content/ebrochure/2016/tacoma_ebrochure.pdf

 

???
2016 Toyota Tacoma Towing Capacity
So, you’re looking for some hard and fast numbers on the 2016 Toyota Tacoma towing capacity.

The 2016 Toyota Tacoma can tow up to 6,800 pounds and haul up to 1,620 pounds when properly equipped. At that trim level, you’ll also have Trailer Sway Control included to help you tow with confidence.

While we don’t have all the details yet, we have more than enough information to get you started in deciding if the all new 2016 Tacoma is the right new truck for you and whatever the job at hand requires of you. Let’s get started!

 

Colorado Is 3500 to 7600 which means you'll have to trim down truck weight by no 4x4, no crew cab etc to get to the rating that you need for towing. For the Tacoma to not have a range for towing tells me that there is something in the drive line that limits the tow rating, and it's not an effect of gvwr vs gcwr.

 

We have to be careful to compare apples to apples. The cab configuration, 2WD/4WD, axel ratio changes those numbers slightly...Owners Manuel tells the truth in the back specs pages. Auto companies always advertise their best possible numbers to look good (short bed with 2WD and tow package, 4.10 axle ratio will always give best payloads...so that's what they advertise. Now, any deviations from this will start to lower those payload numbers. Yes, the GM twins will have a slightly better payloads (more torque helps too), but it all depends on your configuration. Note: I was really wanting the Tow/Haul mode button on the GM...then discovered the ECT Power mode button comes on the Toyota (same feature as Tow/Haul mode)...it really makes a difference!! Why doesn't Toyota advertise this?? I have already been pulling a light trailer hauling brush with no problems. Love the ECT Power button.
Now the new Diesel option in the GM trucks brings a whole new ballgame to the massive towing payload numbers...Toyota can't compete with that.

 

Hmmm, we're coming up with the same thing for payload, but different on the towing. I wasn't too worried about it as I'm keeping my HD2500 so towing and payload aren't really a concern of mine what-so-ever when it comes to this vehicle so I didn't even pay attention to it. If I did tow something it would be a small utility trailer with my Harley on it so tow weight wouldn't hit 1000 probably.

Even payload on this thing could be questionable. Put a camper cap on it and 3 friends and you may only have 300 - 400 pounds of gear/supplies left to put in. Not that the truck is going to collapse if you exceed it within reason.

Once again, I didn't look into the towing so I didn't commit it to memory, but just for clarification, there is a difference between sway control and load leveling. ALL sway control is put a side load, usually by means of a shock like dampening device to prevent the trailer from swaying from side to side like on a heavy trailer and when you apply brakes going down hill or if the draft of an 18 wheeler gets a trailer swinging around behind you. That won't help you at all when it comes to any tow ratings. Then there's load levelers which provide rods that act like a spring. This still won't help you as far as what you can tow, but it will allow you to put a trailer with a heavier tongue weight behind the truck. Instead of all of the tongue weight being on the back of the truck (payload capacity), it redistributes the force back to the trailer. You are still limited to the GCWR of the truck, so while this device helps as far as load capacity, it does nothing for tow as the weight of the two vehicles is the same. Not trying to turn this into a towing thread, but thought I'd make a clarification.

 

Well, if I cant tow my Harley because i want 4WD AND if I cant go off road because I need to tow on pavement then Ill just keep both my Sierra and Wrangler. They are both paid for.

Thanks so much for the comments tho.

 

Since I don't want to hijack this thread, there is a thread on here that talks about towing. That 3500 that I came up with was the result of me typing "Tow Rating for Toyota Tacoma" in google. When I ignored that result and actually clicked on a brochure you are right, it is up to 6800. I will send you a PM so as to not divert the meaning of this thread.

 

Thanks. The Canyon 4WD boasts 7000lbs. That is an inconsequential difference, at least to me. Some of the confusion may be due to the obvious differnce in towing capacity betewen the 4 cylinder engine and the V6's. So that is a wash.

Any experinces with Z71 vs the OR package?

 

Here's the skinny. FlyFisher, your dealer was right. I went back up to go pick up my bed mat that came in and I spoke with the parts dept. The sales department, including the manager, had no clue. There is no stock Toyota remote start option for the Tacoma for '16. The list that I saw was just a generic list and it had the Toyota remote for $700 and aftermarket for $500. The range on the Toyota would be the same as the range you can unlock your doors with (roughly 80 ft from what I'm told). The after market has a range of upwards of 1000'!!
I got the number for the rep that this local dealer uses to install the aftermarket remote starts and spoke with him. He told me that there are (were) three models that he installed.
The Avital 4113 http://www.avital.com/Products/RemoteStartSystem/5005/4113.aspx I believe that with this one you can incorporate it into the existing key fob (with the limited range) or use the Avital fob for range upward of 1000'
The other one is iDatalink - ADS-ALCA http://www.idatalink.com/product/product/product_id/1 I think this one is compatible with the oem fob as well.
The last one that he used to use is Code Alarm http://www.voxxelectronics.com/code-alarm/remote-start/ He had to quit installing them due to a change that they made and he has experienced 8 system failures as a result of the change. He said this used to be the best system. Who knows.

When I saw the prices, I'm tempted to just buy and install myself. And I'm sure I could, but then again I think there's a lot of tech in this truck and sometimes it's best to know when to cry Uncle and let an expert handle it.

I'm also helping the economy this way right?

Hope this helps for those that were interested.

 

Thanks for following up! That's the best explanation I've read and that definitely helps. I think it's looking more like I'm either going to deal with an extra fob and go aftermarket or use my cell phone.

 

Oh one thing I forgot to add. In all cases for those with the push button start. The truck starts remotely, but when you open the door it will shut off. So you'll have to restart with the button dash. At first I didn't like that, but then I realized I'd only use it in the dead of winter so there's that. The installer told me it didn't matter what brand was installed, it's just a side effect of the keyless system.

 

It could have been so simple if Toyota had just included a remote start. The 3 domestics have it in their trucks & cars in a wide range of vehicles. Oh well.

 

The Taco comes with a manual transmission and the GM twins don't ... that was enough for me. If there is an option for manual how could I not go with it?

 

OK, well I compiled a list of things to check on before buying:

TOYO TACO CHECK LIST

1. Hood sealent- Check for seperation.
2. Ask for transmission fluid check.
3. Ask for driveline/u-joints grease check.
4. Listen for bottle howl/wind noise on test drive.
5. Check for driveline vibration on test drive.
6. Ask about software upgrade for transmission??
7. Check tire pressure.(not a big thing) should on any new car.
8. Look for/check uninitiated trip meters reset, if possible.
9. Check on the Blind Spot Monitor(BSM) for problems.
10. Forget it let it pass & wait for the 17's

Am I missing anything? Not trying stir up a stink but, $37k is a lot of cash.

 

37K is a lot of cash! What world are you living in? For a 'Pick up truck' that's not much money.

 

Some of us remember when a new Toyota pickup was less than $4000.

 

Well it certainly is to me. Must be nice not to think so.

 

A lot of keyboard warriors in here. Tldr

 

I get it, I am one of those "Some of us" but they haven't been that price since around 80-82ish. If I remember right my 84' 4x4 was around $7500 my 1990 was $11000 my 94 was $16000 my 95 1/2 was $19000.