BamaToy's Garage and Diagnostic Center.

Going to measure at the oil sensor IAW THIS (thanks again DoorDing). Just need to make sure I have the proper adapter.

 

When it comes to airbag lights, I always suggest to play it safe and take it to the dealer. Tell them you had the recall done last year and you are concerned it may be a reoccurring event. Better to play it safe than to poke around the SRS system and pop an airbag. Those things are LOUD when you are inside the vehicle!

 

Yep! that is the spot. Thanks Doording for bringing up that info.

 

Yea I was going to do that but was just wondering what else to check. I will make an appointment and have the whole thing check out. thanks!

 

Year: 2010
Make: Tacoma Access Cab
Model: TRD Off Road w/ Tow Package
Engine size: 4.0
Mileage: 148,000+

Is a lift installed: No
Aftermarket components: No
Is there an alarm system installed: No
When did you first notice the problem?: Week after purchase
How often does it occur?: Every time I drive and decelerate from 40 mph until 27 mph.
What have you ALREADY replaced to try and fix it?: Replaced front wheel bearings and CV shaft differential bearing with ECGS bushing.
Have you checked codes?: N/A

I'm thinking it could be the driveshaft carrier bearing and/or u-joints. Not sure if they have ever been replaced or serviced regularly. Sounds like it was a loose exhaust shield rattling but they all feel tight with no rubbing. It's a medium toned growling not a high pitched squeal. Loud enough to be heard inside cab with windows up.

 

Part of black friday on Amazon was a Innova 3100 code reader for half off. So i picked it up since it does ABS. Just ran it and i got two codes

C0200 - Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor Signal
U0073 - Control Module Communication Bus Off


I would assume that U0073 is being thrown because of C0200. So it sounds like i should be able to just buy part number 8951604010 and swap the cables out?

 

Yup thats the one. Seems to work just fine....granted i have no idea what makes a good one lol. But this one does store stuff in memory so i cans till look at the codes even though its been off for a few hours and isnt connected naymore

 

Do you need the flexhead? I would personally (and do) have regular ratcheting wrenches. Gearwrench has a pretty good set for 50 bucks right now at various stores (sears being where i got mine). 10 SAE and 10 metric. For some reason it says it only goes to 18mm but im pretty sure the set i got went to 19mm....or i bought it separately. Gearwrench also has a flexhead version for ~100 as well.


On our trucks specifically i havent really found a time those wrenches wouldnt work.

For the long wrenches i like plan old wrenches personally. If im using a long wrench its cause i want the torque to break it loose (or tighten it if not torquing it)

 

Year: 2014
Make: Tacoma
Model: TRD DCSB 4X4 Sport
Engine size: 6



Is a lift installed: Yes with a TRD Pro. Front only.
Aftermarket components: None
Is there an alarm system installed: None
When did you first notice the problem?: After the alignment when I installed the lift.
How often does it occur?: At 50 MPH every time I drive the truck
What have you ALREADY replaced to try and fix it?: Tried the shift into 4 wheel drive and the vibe is still present.
Have you checked codes?: No

The vibe is a pulsing vibe, that can be felt in the floorboard of the truck. I do not notice it below 48 to 50 MPH. It was not present, after I installed the lift, but when the alignment was performed that is when it started. I have a Jeep wrangler TJ, and it feels like when the front diff on the jeep is pointed too low for better caster, you will get a pulsing vibe at higher speeds. Can the same happen on the Tacoma? I am new to Toyotas.

Thanks,

Mark

 

So couldn't get the hex bolt out to attach the gauge so attached at the relocation bracket (where the oil filter is currently mounted). The gauge didn't register any oil pressure there at all.

I also replaced the oil pressure sensor with a brand new OEM sensor. Still light.

I also put a new (empty) filter on to see if any oil is flowing. Turned the engine out and let it run for no more than a second or two then pulled the oil filter off. It was full of oil so there is flow...

Just picked up the repair manual and about to buy a new pump but wanted to run by you what I've done so far. I know I'm getting oil flow, but no pressure. You think the pressure relief valve is stuck? I should be able to access that without taking the oil pump off, right?

 

@BamaToy1997

 

Sorry, I didn't receive notification on this post. It sounds like you may be encountering the same issue as many others do with the needle bearing in the LF side of the front differential. There is a company called East Coast Gear Supply that has a kit that replaces the needle bearing with a bushing, and eliminates the vibration. Have you tried for a VERY short time to remove the CV axles completely and then drive it to see if the vibration goes away?

So we are getting flow to the filter, but no pressure at a pressure port right at the filter? And you have a relocation kit for your oil filter. I know this may be redundant, and I am trying to remember all we talked about.... Have you tried removing the relocation kit and going back to factory filter location to see if this helps? I have seen some aftermarket relocation kits cause problems on a lot of GM trucks.

 

I didn't do that as Ive been running the kit for a while now. It had a slow leak (very inconsequential) that I was looking into when the hose blew off initially. The only think I did was put a new hose on. I drained the oil from the pad during this time and didn't find any metal parts so I think the oil pump is running just fine; my guess (is a long shot) is that the bypass valve is stuck open.

My question would be if that makes sense to you. Before I get a new pump, is there a way to correct this issue?

 

It could possibly be the bypass spring or check ball has failed. It is uncommon, but not impossible to happen. Only way to know would be to get into it and check it.

 

If it failed, can I fix it without getting a new pump or is it wiser just to get the new pump?

 

Most likely better off just replacing the pump. They are not too expensive.

 

After lots of headaches the culprit was found for the misfire issue. Cracked head. Quick question for you, Bama. I've seen elsewhere on TW where you suggested JIS in Texas for buying remanufactured engines. Any experience with their cylinder heads? At this point I'm trying to find a reman or aftermarket head on a budget and am open to suggestions.

 

Cracked head would do it for sure. Just such a rare thing for the Tacoma to crack a head. Seen blown head gaskets of course, but a cracked head is unusual for sure. You and Mr Murphy get along really well? lol.

JIS does do a great job on engines and heads. Their cylinder heads, the part numbers for the 5VZ are TCH5VL and TCH5VR for left and right heads. In the past their rebuilt heads were around $350 each, plus freight shipping.

 

Year: 2011
Make: Tacoma DoubleCab
Model: TRD Off Road w/ Tow Package
Engine size: 4.0
Mileage: 98000

Is a lift installed: billies at 2.5 and 2"
Aftermarket components: Snorkle, rack,dual batteries in factory spot,winch,two sets of tires off road set (235/85/r16 and factory set only use off road set on trips to parks 5% time

Is there an alarm system installed: Viper with remote start

When did you first notice the problem?: 8 months ago when driving in the rain would come on and off for a while then finally stayed on.

How often does it occur?: all the time
What have you ALREADY replaced to try and fix it?:

replaced left rear wheel sensor

Have you checked codes?:

c0215=left rear wheel sensor
c1201=engine control system malfunction
p0441= evap ckt high

Started by trouble shooting codes pulled all wheel sensors and checked wires for damage. Put a meter on each sensor and got a short back in front, then measured looking back to ecu and measured short also for front. Pulled the plug on the cross bar in rear after removing spare tire check the same there I was able to see short for each wheel sensor but when I look back to the ecu I am not seeing a short or anything to ground either. It looks like both pairs of wires are clean open. I have pulled the battery off several times no reset. I dont know where the ecu is located.

On the other emissions code I have checked the solenoid valve with battery and blowing in it while switching voltage on and off and it works. I have checked the rubber lines in the engine bay and at the gas tank I replaced the gas cap, I have not taken the filter or the evap canister off to see if anything on it could be damaged or borken. will have to pull the bed off to do a more intense view of it before I start changing the evap canister.
My main concentration is on the abs at the moment.
Thank you in advance for any insight

 

When you mention that you checked the sensor wires and found a "short" what kind of short was it? Were they shorted to each other? Shorted to ground? Shorted to 12V? What kind of short was it? Did you measure resistance, or conductivity? (Sorry, but I need to ask this to clarify the type of short you found)