Long Travel BS Thread

Hi production costs means hi prices. Nothing new there. Nothing is cheap in this hobby of ours, it would just be nice to see some reasonably priced products for the average weekend warrior.

 

I get it man. I'll pay. Just like I said. Will hurt the wallet. But be a nice upgrade though

 

you will for sure rub. get the biggest wheel spacers you can.

I have shocks inside the frame, and with 1.5inch wheel spacers on my rear wheels, when fully flexed I rub my frame/bed cage. (full bump one side full droop the other, 4x4 so that happens for me often.)


I don't even have bump stops out there.
like they said cycle it but I would be putting the bump stops through the middle of my frame if I were you.

 

Answered in bold what I could

 

If you buy the motor mounts and trans mount as a package deal Ill do $50 off. So $750 for both kits.

Appreciate the business man, I know it's a lot of money for parts that don't look pretty or you cant really feel them working...but the day I broke both mounts back in 2003 and had to fork over a couple grand to Toyota and the local welding shop for repairs I wish I would of built these thing earlier lol. These are parts for real offroad trucks. I'll still sell to mall crawlers or street queens but those trucks will never benefit off the product haha.

 

Well that I appreciate! Once the summer job fires up. I'll order these up

 

I need to buy a set of motor mounts, the bushings poly, rubber or delrin? @Bonzen

 

@TRACperformance doing work

 

You need to remove the stock cam tabs.

 

Also @Bonzen's Tranny mount fit perfectly.

 

Do you guys know of any good shops to get truck painted in oc/inland empire area? Willing to travel and currently looking at srs coachworks but im thinking about getting the whole truck repainted and listing it for sale, so I can get into a different long travel truck.

 

Is that bolt in the nyloc to short ?

 

Not tight. Left it loose so I can install the motor mounts ad have wiggle room.

 

Great buddy! I'm really thankful for your help. I see how lubing up pretty much the entire bushing and sleeve would help with pressing it all in. I'm excited and hope it goes with no hiccups.

Yeah, I definitely was thinking that and wanted a second opinion. Good looking out man.

 

I use a hard polyurethane bushing. Allows for a very small amount of flex. Delran is too firm and brittle, tends to crack with vibrations associated with off-road. We experimented with Delran and even Polycarbonate bushings years ago for engine mounts and lower control arm mounts and neither ended up being a good choice.

Private message me and we'll get you a set of motor mounts going asap!

 

I have delrin in my LCA's. I have cracked one, the others seem to be holding up well. They are a pita to install, ended up putting them in the freezer.

 

That's the issue we had with the Delran and polycarbonate which is basically "bulletproof glass" the machined flanges would crack and break off under heavy off-roading.

In my opinion the best way to pivot a lower control arm is with a 1" uniball. That's how my race kit is designed. Metal on metal, tighten the bolt till it stops. Never goes out of alignment.

 

I had a similar setup but my 2.0 x4" bumps were drenched or recessed halfway into the frame. At full stuff on one side and full droop on the other I cut a sidewall down on the pinch bolt. I had 1.5" spacers. Chopped off upper pinch bolt and hadn't had any other issues since, but I didn't get it in same situation to really test it.

 

@Bonzen so when u gonna do a transmount for 1st gen 3.4 auto 2wd.... These motor mounts are lonely