Polyurethane Radiator Support Mounts (Cab Also)

OK washer on top.
Something got bent it seems as the left side bolt went in at an angle and had to be slowly pounded in while I kept pushing the inner metal bushing up as it traveled down with the bolt. Anyway it is done.
I thought I noticed the hood slightly higher than before but have decided could be my imagination.




UPDATE: Just a word to the wise, I bent the radiator bracket when installing these. The left side bolt was not bent before I started. It is now.
Proceed with caution.

 

Your radiator support is bent. Don't worry, everyone's is including my own. That's why your left side bolt went in at an angle. You can thank your heavy battery for that.

If your hood is indeed sitting slightly higher than it originally was, just adjust the rubber stoppers one turn in. It should alleviate the height issue.

 

Just because you are in an area where the roads get salted regularly during the winter, you should lube you alignment cams. First thing you do is wash them off thoughroly, then get a paint pen and mark their position on both sides of all four cams, so eight marks, then with the truck jacked up securely on jackstands, unbolt and pull the cams out completely one at a time. Don't be afraid to lube them so much that they ooze. I recommend Lucas Red n Tacky grease for this. When you reassemble, just snug the ever so slightly, you will want to torque them with the full weight of the vehicle on the bushing. When you're ready to torque, loosen them individually and line the cams up with your marks you made, tighten and torque to approximately 100ftlbs. As long as the cams line up with the marks you made, then no need to have the alignment checked and you save yourself from a frozen cam.

 

I torqued mine to around 110 ft lbs.

 

Not worth doing unless it can be over done, right.

 

Exactly. Plus I am hard on my truck so that little extra bit of clamping power makes the difference when we are talking about my control arms.

 

I'm surprised you haven't gone with a solid mount lower yet.

I just got a pair of these for my 4R, they will not be a direct swap like you guys, I am going to need to build a new frame mount that will be an inch or two higher.

Is the frame mount on the tacos totally flat where the bushings contact it? Mine have a "pocket" on the top so even if the spacing was correct, they would not sit flush/flat.

 

Hey thanks for that.. I think that's something I can manage.

Another thing to keep me up and night

I'll roughly quote that OZ guy "you're from Alberta? Pull and grease your cam bolts, reassemble. You're welcome"

 

I am working on solid lower mounts for the cams. I'm just lazy and tired of working on the truck all the time which is why I have temporarily stopped for the most part other than the battery that I recently swapped out and the additional grounding I ran to the longblock. Lol.

There is a dimple per say on the frame itself on the bottom under the radiator suppport. These bushings allow them to have no issues at all, while it's not a 100% fit, I have found that it seems to work just fine.

 

Ok, question, you guys keep 'measuring' the rubber bushings vs the poly bushings and saying the taller poly bushing is roughly the same as the rubber bushing. But, correct me if I'm wrong, but doesnt the rubber bushing compress when torqued down, probably to about the size of the smaller poly bushing with washer. I mean, thats just whats been runnimg through my head this whole time...am I missing something?

And when I get a chance I'm gonna look up the torque specs for that, I've learned the hard way that "guttentight" can cause shit to break and/or become loose.

 

Also, you are putting added stress on the body by adding even a fraction of lift up front and then nothing in the rear. Every bump you hit, the body wants to go back to being completely level, but the larger pucks up front wont let it. Come on now.
Rob, you can swear up and down that everything is fine and nothing has happened yet. Yet. But, as I said, thats added stress to the body frame and sooner or later its gonna bend or crack or break. I'm going to replace all of the bushings with poly bushings, but go with what the manufacturers recommend for OE replacement.

 

What's important is the original size of a bushing. Not it's compression because no two bushings are the same when it comes to rubber. The only time guttentight causes shit to break or goes loose is when there some sort of uneven mounting surface.

The only reason the pucks wont go in is because of the way they are designed. The sleeves make it so rigid that there is no give on it. You can't really bend them like the rubber ones that's why it's hard going in but once it's in you are set to go. Do what you want Jeff, it's your truck.

 

What matters is the lengths of the inner sleeves, as they compress zero, and matching those lengths up.

 

This is why I have the smaller bushing on top with an extra washer to shim it to what a new stock tacoma is. I measured mine before I removed the old ones and also my buddy's new tacoma. This is the compressed "resting" height. I figured that is the dimension that was important to match. The stock bushings do smash more when installed, with the weight of the vehicle on it, than the poly bushings.

 

This. ^^^

 

Hey Roberto. This makes sense, what's your take? Trying to decide if I should switch to big on top. Thanks.

 

My take on it all is that like someone previously stated, as long as the inner sleeve is the correct height and the bushing's measure the same unsquished the rest is irrelevant.

 

Both bolts slid down easily before I started. Guess I bent the support when jacking up.
The stopper adjustment worked for the hood.
The creak I used to hear when backing out the driveway has gone. No other difference noticed.
I was thinking of removing the upper washer but probably dont want to deal with the left side bolt.

 

So you have two washers on top of the smaller top bushing?