Check Your U-Joints

2015 w/ 5K and did the first u-joint grease today using Mobil 1 synthetic. Removed the heat shield on one near the t-case using 12 mm socket. Made it much easier to access. Front two took two pumps before I heard the crackle of grease purging. Did not pump until new grease was coming out. I've learned over the years that this just makes a mess. Rear three joints took three pumps before crackling started. All but the furthermost rear had paint.

The only weird thing was after filling the u-joints with grease the zerks continued to back purge some grease which stopped after a minute or so. Never had that happen before.

 

This problem is not just on the Gen 3s.

 

The reason to keep purging until you see the new grease is so that you purge all the crap in the old grease from the system. I kept going until I saw red. But I will agree that the clean up was a pain. I also had a zerk back purge, all I did was push it in while moving the object I used to punch in. I was thinking that some of the black factory paint was still on the ball allowing grease to escape the zerk.

 

It's a sealed/booted affair; replaceable, but not serviceable.
Makes you wonder though...

 

Just the rear.
Do you think I'll have to pull the shaft out or will the boot slip out of the way enough?

 

What and where do i buy the grease? and does it come with pump?

Sorry, I'm not going to pretend like I know what you guys are talking about.
Newbie here, asking very Newbie question. I'm going to try to read the full 11 pages in the meantime.

Thank you!

 

Slightly off topic but since I'm going to be getting under the truck with grease to do this and prob learn and start to do my own oil changes, is there a large mat or something anyone can recommend that I put down and drive my truck on to protect my driveway? The truck won't fit in the garage and I just put in a new paver driveway so don't want to muck it up with grease and oil. Thanks!

 

I've been using synthetic amsoil grease from Napa for years on my 2006 TRD OR DCSB... the red stuff... with a flexible tube gun.
I grease the 5 zerks until plenty clean grease squirts out. I do it once a year or 15,000 miles, per the manual.
146k and no problems, squeaks, vibration or loose joints.

 

You should have toyota care which is 2 years of oil changes, and even after that wears off I would just go to Toyota and have them do it for $35... they even update CarFax. They also take care of all your fluids. Its really cheap and easy for them to do it.

 

I'm thinking of seeing what happens to these in about 500 miles. I expect

Get this grease gun:

$46 Lincoln 1133 Pistol Grip Grease Gun with 18" Whip Flex Hose and Coupler, 2-Way Loading, 6000 PSI, One-Hand Operation, Dual-Lip Follower, Standard Grease Cartridges, Jam-Proof Toggle, Cast Pump Head

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KKTFO/
You can get this grease:

$11 Valvoline Moly-Fortified Gray Full Synthetic Grease 14.1 OZ Cartridge

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CQ4DK0/

Or any of the other NLGI #2 rated greases mentioned in this thread, but the above will work fine. You can then watch this video on how to load and use the grease gun: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c6ieABj3Kj0

Crawl under you truck and find the 5 zerks as shown in the pictures on the first page. Push the nozzle onto each zerk on an angle and then position it so it's vertical on the zerk. Hold it in place with some pressure (this helps to not make a mess). Pump the grease gun until you hear crackling noises and see grease coming out of the edges of the U-joint (there was a video about that in this thread as well). Clean up the U-joint and zerk after each pumping. Pat yourself on the back and consider the job done.

 

Back purging is usually due to something being lodged in the ball check. Once the debris was pushed out it closed. Sometimes they don't clear and you're supposed to replace the fitting to prevent pushing debris into the bearing.

 

Amazon is a good place to look, at the bottom of the thread it shows what items are mentioned in the thread with clickable links.

If you're still lost you can always try an auto parts store.

 

Big piece of cardboard box works well, trash it when done. I also have old blankets in shop to thro under the truck roll around on it, I reuse those.

 

I'm gonna pick up a couple of CV boot clamps (if I can find the right size) and check my rear driveshaft out today. I'll take a few pics when I get the boot back so you can see what we're dealing with.

 

Awesome; much appreciated.

 

Thank you!

How many pumps does each grease can have? And does this whole process also apply to 2015 4Runner 4x4 trail?

 

Good looking out Splitbolt! Did mine today. The universe is balanced once again.

 

I undid the rear crimp clamp and unbolted the driveshaft from the rear pinion. I didn't take the shaft all the way out, but as you can see there is definitely grease in there. It'll pull right out but I didn't see the need. I added some more and sealed it back up. I have this annoying clunk in the am one time when I make my first stop. Almost like something is stuck and once it's free, I don't hear it the rest of the day. Wow my thumb looks huge.

 

That looks like plain old lithium complex; Spicer says they ship their booted slip assemblies with 4oz. Chevron Ultra-Duty EP-2.
I thought conventional wisdom was to use a fortified or synthetic grease for the slip joint sticking?

 

I don't know what grease this is. Yeah, I think you're right and ford even had some "special" grease for their slip yokes. I put a temporary band clamp on it and I'll have to investigate this further. I'm not very knowledgable on what to run in this. If you have any suggestions let me know. I can pull it out, clean it, lube it and put it back in this weekend. Sounds gross lol.