AaronArf's 2012 DCSB Build

Congratulations on the new DD. That's awesome!

 

Gotcha, so here is an easy way - just pull the bolts out of the bottom of ball joint adapt / spindle to open up that gap ? That way you just separate the LCA from the spindle vs taking everything else apart.

 

Are those stacked washers on your spindle LBJ adapters?

 

Whoa!

 

Yes it was just a temp solution to figure out what size spacer I needed in there. There is a solid slice of cromo there now and aftermarket 10mm longer grade 10 bolts. Still trying to find those same bolts with zinc coating though, they only came in that black oxide useless coating that rust when you breath on it.

 

Hmm, no spacer needed on the TC race kit. OEM hardware on my spindles

 

Nope, not whoa. The washers were a temp mock up item and there is a solid cromo spacer there now. A lot of 4wd kits have used LB adapt spacers over the years either a loose thick washer or a weld on spacer if it is taller than 1/4". You don't reuse the OE bolt, you use a longer bolt so it is still just as strong.

Edit - fkn auto correct

 

Go droop your front end completely and snap a pic of that area and post it.

 

No need, I'll post a pic of the half moon imprinted on my lowers

 

Oh god I just shit myself laughing...well you didn't fall for that trap buddy so ...Aaron is completely aware of why a spacer should be used

Just so everyone else understands, on a " race" style LCA with the uniball in the LCA the CV sits extremely close to the top surface of the LCA as the suspension droops. Lots of people have nice gouges in theirs just from the hose clamp holding the CV boot on hitting the LCA while it rotates too. The hose clamps can explode and rip your CV boot so most people use the lower profile pinch style clamps to help with that too.

Because of this issue experienced fab shops use spacers where you see mine to provide that clearance so there is never any binding or rubbing. The CV hitting the LCA can also limit droop travel. So, the technically correct installation process is install the UCA, spindle and LCA and your CO without a spring on it and cycle the kit to it's droop max and if your boot or CV rub install washers until everything clears fully then cut a slice of cromo tubing to that thickness to make your own solid spacer. As I stated in the other post you do NOT reuse the OE bolts you use longer bolts to account for the thickness of your spacer, and the aftermarket bolts are grade 10 which is an upgrade over OE too.

Edit - you may get lucky and just be able to use an over the counter spacer so you don't always have to custom cut one out.

 

Hmm so no spacer needed...but half moon huh

 

Isn't hurting anything, I have deeper gouges from rocks. TC even states in the install instructions to use standard cv clamps on the outers vice hose clamps.

 

That was my plan when I get around to it. Still a pain compared to just being able to stick a wrench on the top and snug up the bottom.

 

Haven't had to get in there to tighten mine up yet, visual check it often, witness marks for the win.

 

The potential wear and tear made me question it and that's when I asked / learned about spacing. I'm always nervous about little shit like that potentially causing a PITA job like a boot replacement.

 

Agreed witness marks are always a good idea, ultimately using a mechanical lock nut on those bolts is the way to go that's what a lot of the LT kits come with. My kit came with all mechanical lock nuts but I hate them because they are one time use and rag out the threads on the bolts too. I use nylocks everywhere and just check everything often. I work on my truck too much to deal with the mechanical lock nuts.

 

That's awesome. Unfortunately, as mentioned, we require a 3/8" allen head. Idk why I didn't think of just separating the spindles from the adapters. Just sucks because those are now loctited on.
Also my adapters are rusty as fawk!

 

Uhhh nylocks are one time use as well...

 

Yes but would you rather pay 50 cents for a new nylock that will never rag out the threads on your uniball bolt or wrestle with those mechanical nuts and risk having to replace a machined head uniball bolt ...$20 per bolt when that mechanical nut tears up those threads ?

 

Thanks!

@Evenflow here's your half moon lol



Damn rocks. Should have stuck to mall crawling, my beautiful TC arms look like chit.