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Future NEW Tacoma Owner

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by scott16fisher, Jan 3, 2016.

  1. Jan 11, 2016 at 10:36 PM
    #61
    TacoTaco15

    TacoTaco15 Well-Known Member

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    That's going to vary widely based on your age, driving history, etc.

    All major insurance companies will give you a quote over the phone. Call your insurance company and just tell them the type of vehicle that you're thinking about buying. I do it all the time, and sometimes go through 10-15 quotes before actually purchasing a vehicle - just to make sure that insurance isn't going to randomly be super high on any of them.
     
  2. Jan 11, 2016 at 10:40 PM
    #62
    TacoTaco15

    TacoTaco15 Well-Known Member

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    That's a nice truck. If that's what you're looking for, go for it brotherman. I'd recommend having a mechanic take a look at it - many ma-and-pa shops will do that much for free. Not to hold anything over the seller's head, but just so you can know any possible issues you might be dealing with in the future.

    Concerning a 'lien title', that just means they owe money on it. I have both sold and bought vehicles with that - it's nothing bad whatsoever. Others have already answered this well, but I just wanted to re-iterate that it's nothing negative and is totally normal.
     
  3. Jan 11, 2016 at 11:03 PM
    #63
    scott16fisher

    scott16fisher [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Okay, sounds like all I have to make sure that I get the title in hand by meeting them at the place where they received the lien title. Correct? Or if I get the title in hand do I still have to meet them at the place where they got the lien title?
     
  4. Jan 11, 2016 at 11:07 PM
    #64
    TacoTaco15

    TacoTaco15 Well-Known Member

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    There are a few different ways to do it.

    1) Meet at their bank. You give your check/cash/whatever to them, and they produce the title.

    2) You have to wait for the title and it will be mailed to you. Some states only have electronic titles, so the bank doesn't even keep a copy of the title on-hand. I have sold and bought this way before, and I always provide a copy of my ID for the buyer or, if I'm buying, have the seller provide me a photocopy of their ID. Also, if you do it this way, absolutely write-up a bill of sale and have both of you sign it showing the date the vehicle was purchased, for how much, and that you're still awaiting the title. This will be done when you actually take delivery of the vehicle from the seller.

    All in all, it's whatever you're comfortable with. I have done it both ways. It all depends on the title practices in your state, as well as the seller's bank. Ask the seller about it, though.
     
    DustStorm4x4 likes this.
  5. Jan 11, 2016 at 11:17 PM
    #65
    SalemCBR

    SalemCBR Oregon's #2 TW rep

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    Clean, salvaged, and blemished/branded titles are unrelated to a lien. A tittle with a lien can still be any of the type I listed. The lien is the lender holding the tittle until it is paid off.

    If the tittle is not clean though, a lender will likely more than double your interest rate.
     
  6. Jan 11, 2016 at 11:18 PM
    #66
    TacoTaco15

    TacoTaco15 Well-Known Member

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    Yeah - what he said. I should've reiterated. Always make sure a title isn't salvaged. I don't recommend looking into a salvage title at any time. Be sure and ask, as well - guys with salvage titles know that they're undesirable and may not be very forthcoming with that information.
     
  7. Jan 11, 2016 at 11:24 PM
    #67
    SalemCBR

    SalemCBR Oregon's #2 TW rep

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    sorry about your bmw.

    1st on tittles with a lien: the buyer will not have the tittle ever. So thats the hulabaloo... they dont have it.

    differentials:
    Open = if a wheel slips the power goes to the slipping wheel.
    limited slip = a wheel slips than the power is pushed to the opposing wheel
    locking differential = YOU push a button and the rear wheels spin at the same rate. (And will break stuff if you turn on pavement with it locked)
    There are aftermarket arb lockers but they are expensive. Also prolly better than a stock locker.
     
  8. Jan 11, 2016 at 11:26 PM
    #68
    SalemCBR

    SalemCBR Oregon's #2 TW rep

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    For me? 80 a month, for you? Get a quote from a local agency. It depends your sex, age, and driving record.
     
  9. Jan 11, 2016 at 11:29 PM
    #69
    SalemCBR

    SalemCBR Oregon's #2 TW rep

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    When you look at a rig. Ask if it is a clean tittle first, if not... your wasting your time.

    I always do that and still people tell me its clean when its not. Trust no one, bring a flashlight and a lie detector.
     
    DustStorm4x4 and TacoTaco15 like this.
  10. Jan 11, 2016 at 11:43 PM
    #70
    TacoTaco15

    TacoTaco15 Well-Known Member

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    And your tinfoil hat.
     
    scott16fisher[OP] likes this.
  11. Jan 12, 2016 at 12:03 AM
    #71
    SalemCBR

    SalemCBR Oregon's #2 TW rep

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    Oh you read my mind Jake.
    ...and a mirror, and toaster.

    Also snacks.
     
  12. Jan 12, 2016 at 4:37 AM
    #72
    scott16fisher

    scott16fisher [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Can I check this with the VIN number somehow?
     
  13. Jan 12, 2016 at 4:42 AM
    #73
    TacoTaco15

    TacoTaco15 Well-Known Member

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    With a Carfax, yes you can.

    You do have to pay - normally they will sell you a 'bundle' of Carfax reports on any VIN you want for a certain price. This is useful if you're shopping around for vehicles.

    I'd recommend them before you purchase anything, as it will let you know of any red flags that the seller may not know about or may be hiding from you.

    A great seller will include a Carfax when you even come look at the car; however, not everyone does that.
     
    scott16fisher[OP] likes this.
  14. Jan 12, 2016 at 4:47 AM
    #74
    scott16fisher

    scott16fisher [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Sweet!
     
  15. Jan 12, 2016 at 4:52 AM
    #75
    scott16fisher

    scott16fisher [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Alright, I've been messaging the guy and this is what he's had to say

    Doesn't know the differential it is. Tires about 3 years old with 50-60% tread left. No abnormal frame rust, just normal. The lien holder is Wells Fargo. Has the work for the timing belt, water pump, and other repairs. Already has wiring in receiver but doesn't have piece that ball fits on.

    And I'll ask him about that^
     
  16. Jan 12, 2016 at 5:07 AM
    #76
    scott16fisher

    scott16fisher [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Not gonna be play ball... he said I'd have to get that on my own.
    He's also the third owner.
     
  17. Jan 12, 2016 at 5:21 AM
    #77
    TacoTaco15

    TacoTaco15 Well-Known Member

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    That's fair - like I said, not all sellers will do that. I do on my vehicles, but not all do.

    I'd invest in a Carfax if you're serious about this truck.
     
  18. Jan 12, 2016 at 5:36 AM
    #78
    DustStorm4x4

    DustStorm4x4 BBC 2020

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    What the heck is "normal" rust? I'd bring a flashlight and get down and dirty and inspect it the best I could. Or bring a mechanic. Also make sure the tires aren't all rotting.

    There's also plenty of videos on YouTube about the basics you should check when buying a used car, if you decide you don't want to spend money on a mechanic to have it looked at for you.
     
  19. Jan 12, 2016 at 5:42 AM
    #79
    scott16fisher

    scott16fisher [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Exactly what I thought! I imagine he's saying the frame is normal, no rust?
     
  20. Jan 12, 2016 at 5:43 AM
    #80
    scott16fisher

    scott16fisher [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Also, I'm moving from NC to CA this spring. With the truck I want being 4x4 is this a good idea or should I wait until I am out there instead of throwing crazy miles on it right away?
     

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