Zach's 2013 DCSB Build

Yeah I was really quite surprised. When I saw the broken brake line I figured I would need to be towed and then to the dealer to have the master cylinder flushed out cause it would be empty and on and on. I checked the fluid though and had barely even lost any. We considered pinching the broken hardline with some pliers to plug it off or screwing a bolt into the line to plug it off but since I was still getting pressure in the rear brake lines I didn't mess with it.

I definitely used the brakes a little as possible to limit the amount of fluid lost but even after a 2 hour drive home the fluid was barely to the minimum mark and I was able to fill it up, bleed out the lines and was good to go.

The dust cover is another story. I feel like if I look at it wrong it bends out of shape.

 

EDIT: Nevermind. I found the answer. Good luck with the dust shield.

 

Brake light and ABS light came on. However, while on the road I thought maybe VSC was trying to keep me from sliding on the ice a few times so I hit the VSC off button. Perhaps by doing so, the solenoid was activated and then when the brake like broke, it remained activated and saved my bacon. The VSC off light remained illuminated when this occurred.

 

Sooo... tell me about these lower control arms.... are the just straight up bolt on? And what exactly do you gain from them? other than bad ass points because thats pretty apparent.....

 

They are straight bolt on. Benefits are:

1) Strength, they are fully boxed and internally gusseted.
2) Lower Uniball Instead of Ball Joint. (Stronger, and easier to replace/service)
3) Dual Shock capability.
4) Integrated 1/4" thick skid plate on the bottom.
5) Greasable bushings so I can add grease at any time. Poly bushings are also an upgrade over the stock ones.
6) I think they allow for a little more articulation, probably not much because the axles and UCAs limit out before the LCA.

 

Did you have to change out your axles or tie rods?

 

That's good to know. Appreciate it. Upon reading more, I think I found out what may have happened.

• Each time the ignition switch is turned ON, and the vehicle reaches approximately speed of 6 km/h (4 mph) or more only at first time, the skid control ECU performs an initial check. The functions of each solenoid valve and pump motor in the brake actuator are checked in order.

^ Your rig probably didn't pass that test, in which case:

• If the skid control ECU detects a malfunction in the brake control system (ABS with EBD, Brake Assist, TRAC, VSC and Auto LSD), then the warning lights or indicator lights illuminate to alert the driver of the malfunction.

My guess is that VSC would not have been able to engage during your 2-hour commute home.

What was the terrain like on your 2-hour commute home?

I think that you may have benefited from some fail safe in the brake actuator system.

Having bled the brakes numerous times using the off-road hydraulic brake system, I know that it only takes like 30 seconds of braking to get 6-8 oz of fluid out of the system.

At any rate, thanks for sharing your experience and letting me geek out on your brakes. lol

 

Nope, they are stock length.

 

I just finished ordering my limit straps and hardware and might find time this weekend to do the install. I plan to do a decent write up since it is something that people do but isn't as well documented. In the meantime below is a quick write up I did for the Mid Travel BS 2.0 thread.

Limit Straps

Limit straps are used to limit the down travel of your suspension.

Why would you want to limit the down travel of your suspension?

1. To prevent your $1200 + shock from over extending.
2. To prevent your upper or lower ball joint/uniball from over extending/becoming damaged, or damaging your coils springs.
3. To prevent damage to your CV Axle.

Do I need limit straps with my setup?

1. Each setup is different, you will need to measure your suspension articulation and travel to determine if there is a need for limit straps.

How do I check the need for and measure for limit straps?

1. Install your mid travel suspension kit.
2. Jack up the front of the truck in the middle until front wheels come off the ground.
3. Check to see if the shock is over extended. Measure the length of the shock and compare those measurements with the extended length of the shock as defined by the manufacturer. If your measurement is equal to the extended length of your shocks per specs then you probably need limit straps. If your measurement is slightly less than the extended length per specs then you may not need limit straps. Before you decided you don't need limit straps check the items listed under numbers 4,5, and 6.
4. Check to see if the Upper Control Arm (UCA) is contacting the coil of your shock assembly. Look inside the wheel well while the front of the truck is jacked up with the tires off the ground and look to see if the uniball cup or inside edge of the UCA is in contact with the coil spring. It it is you need limit straps. If it is not, how much space is there? How much space are you comfortable having?
5. Check to see if the UCA uniball or ball joint is over extended. If you are using a upper ball joint style UCA chances are the ball joint will be the limiting factor in your suspension. Since the ball joint is a sealed unit (covered with a boot) it is difficult to determine if it is being over extended. Talk to the manufacturer to determine the limits of the ball joint. If you are using a uniball style UCA, check to see if the mis alignment spacers are contacting the outside edge of the uniball cup. Total Chaos recommends at least 1/4" of clearance between the misalignment and the uniball cup. If you have less than 1/4" of clearance you need limit straps.
6. Check the Lower Control Arm (LCA) in the same manner as you did the UCA. Same things apply as in step 5.
7. Check the CV Axles to see if they bind or spin freely. With the truck in the same position as in the other steps, try spinning the wheel. Does the CV axle spin freely or is there binding? If you are unsure you can lower the truck and jack it up from under the LCA and spin the wheel to contrast the feel with spinning the wheel under full droop. If you feel binding or un-smooth operation then you likely need limit straps.
8. If you determine due to inspection of any item from 3-7 that you need limit straps, then you should slowly lower the truck on the jack until none of the issues state above occur. This means that you want to be able to allow the suspension to droop the maximum amount possible without over extending the shock, allowing the UCA to contact the coil spring, over extending the ball joints or uniballs, or causing binding in the CV axle. You can use the jack to lower or raise the front of the vehicle until you find the sweet spot where maximum droop is achieved while the other components are allowed to function properly and to their full potential without damage.
9. Once you determine the sweet spot, determine the places you mount the limit straps. They will need to be attached to the frame, and to the LCA. Most aftermarket LCAs will have a location you can use to attach a limit strap. The top portion will need to be welded to the frame. Once you have determined the two mounting points, measure the distance and use that measurement to determine the length of limit strap you will need.

How can I mount my limit straps/what types of hardware do I need?

1. Limit strap - Length will be determined by how you mount it and the articulation of your suspension. Most mid travel setups are going to use limit straps between 8"-10".
2. Clevis - This will allow for fine tuning of the limit straps and adjustment when they stretch. Make sure to account for the length of the clevis when you decide on the length of your strap.
3. Clevis Mount - This is the portion you will weld to the frame that will hold the clevis in place. It is recommended that this piece be welded to a plate of some kind and then to the frame to prevent tearing the frame under stress.
4. Lower Mounting Tab - If your LCA doesn't have provisions to mount a limit strap you will need to weld a tab to the LCA so you can mount the bottom portion of the limit strap.

Links to Parts and Hardware-

Straps:
http://www.kartek.com/parts/kartek-...rap-with-4130-heat-treated-chromoly-ends.html
http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/trail-gear-rock-assault-6-ply-limit-straps.html

Clevis:
http://www.kartek.com/parts/adjusta...is-12-inch-diameter-shank-holds-3-straps.html
http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/limi...trap-by-trail-gear-300773-kit-300774-kit.html

Frame Mount:
http://www.kartek.com/parts/weld-on...h-shank-suspension-limiting-strap-clevis.html
http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/limi...with-mounting-ears-300015-kit-300017-kit.html


Pictures of Limit Straps-

 

Here is an overview of my plans for the limit strap install. My UCAs are the limiting factor because they both contact the coil spring at full droop, and the top misalignment spacer contacts the uniball cup. Everything else in the system seems to be fine so I will be limiting the suspension to protect the uniball and the coil.

Parts I ordered:

Straps:
http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/trail-gear-rock-assault-6-ply-limit-straps.html

Clevis:
http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/limi...trap-by-trail-gear-300773-kit-300774-kit.html

Frame Mount:
http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/limi...with-mounting-ears-300015-kit-300017-kit.html

I know Kartek parts are more commonly used but I liked that the trailgear straps are 6 ply and low range is local and I like to buy locally when I can.

How I plan to do the install:

The Total Chaos LCA's have an optional mount for a secondary shock. Since I am not using a secondary shock I plan to mount the lower eye of the limit strap there. It seems plenty strong and is in a good location.

The top eye will hook to a clevis that will run through a sleeve welded to the frame. All of this will be installed towards the rear of the wheel well on the rear side of the LCA and behind the Coil Bucket.

 

Reserved for Limit Strap Install

 

zach im pretty sure ive asked before, but what welder do you use?

 

I have a small Hobart, since I don't have 220v at my house, and only have access to it once in awhile when I am at a shop or a friend's, I just got the 115v version

$745 Hobart Handler 140 MIG Welder 115V (500559 ) - Durable, Portable Wire Feed Welder Machine - Flux Core Welding Machine with Dual-Gauge Regulator - MIG Welding Machine Welds Up To 1/4 in. Mild Steel

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009X43F38/ref=pe_385040_127541860_TE_dp_1. I works extremely well for everything I have needed it to do and is quite clean even when used with flux wire vs gas and solid wire.

I actually learned awhile back on one of the cheap harbor freight flux core models and still have it around. I am by no means a spectacular welder nor do I have any formal training. Everything I have made though has held up well.

 

yeah ive been using the cheap little harbor freight welder to learn, but i think ive finally outgrown it, and should step up to a mig welder, so ive been shopping around a bit. that one u linked looks really nice for $500

 

It is a good welder. If you have access to 220v power and can afford more they have a model that runs off 110 or 220 and can switch between the two I think @Box Rocket has that model. Hobart Handler 210 MVP.

 

actually the one I have is the Hobart Handler 187

Hobart 500525 Handler 187 230-Volt 25-to-180 Amp Gas/Metal/Arc Single-Phase Wire Welding Package

http://www.amazon.com/Hobart-500525...31&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=hobart+handler+180

It's been a great welder. Little more power than the one Zach linked but either one would work fine for most project. 220v will obviously yield more flexibility in what kinds of projects you can tackle.

 

Gotcha, yeah the one I have does everything up to 3/16" easily. It states it can do 1/4" as well but conditions would need to be prime. Either way, hobart makes a good product.

 

@zscott I strayed away from the 6 ply since i wanted the strap to bow out when it wasnt under tension to keep the stiff 6 ply from pushing up into the clevis. That was my rational for the lower ply number. I'll be keen on seeing how those 6 ply work, may switch to them down the road if they work well and arent too stiff for that short of a strap.

Great start to the writeup by the way! Nice work

 

That was my only hesitation with the 6 ply but I figured I would give it a go. I will let you know how they work.