Light racing UCAs

Anyone have a picture of the new improved light racing UCAs? I just got a set and want to make sure they didn't send me the older version.

 

You should have one washer on each side. Older versions has two that would pinch the arm too much and bind.

 

Old thread but relative question. I just picked up a used set that haven't been installed on any truck yet. Bushing are already pressed in and there are no castle nuts.

As far as washers go there's one thick washer on top and two thin washers around the top of the boot.

Two questions:

Are these presumably the older version and is it worth it (or possible ) to pull the bushings to make sure they are greased properly?

 

Bump.

 

The new ones have the grease fitting on the ball joint.

Sounds like you are talking about the ball joints rather than UCA bushings. If you are, I've heard of people adding grease from the lower portion of the boot closer to where the joint attaches to the spindle. I couldn't tell you if it's a good idea or not. I'm sure someone else could answer for sure.

 

Shoot when did they start putting grease zerks on them? I just got mine this summer and they dont have grease zerks...darn,

 

Same here. bought a set from Headstrong at the end of the summer that didn't have Zerks. Would like to know also.

 

I know...finally replaced my old bushings and wish I had bought a pair of new ball joints.

 

Yeah I rebuilt a pair, new bushings and ball joints. Hopefully they'll last a year or 2 or more then I'll get new balljoints of sell them and get uniballs

 

I was contemplating the same, but I like having the extra adjustments for my lift.

 

Its good and bad. Good for adjustment, but it could move when not wanted to offroad and a lot of shops dont want to mess with it

 

At 165ftlbs torque ?

 

I personally have had no problems, but I have heard it can be a weak point, no? I have mine torqued to 150 ft. lbs.

 

Bought in November, note that the inner bushing face is tapered.

 

For what its worth we have not gotten feedback on movement with any of the arms we have sold and we have sold quite a few.

The new zerk fitting at the end are in fact a new change, but per SPC they don't plan to include the new ball joints until mid-February. Once the change-over is official SPC has already informed us that we will be contacted.

We see a lot of people post up information on these, some of the information is accurate, but some is inaccurate. If you have any questions regarding these arms feel free contact us, we have a excellent relationship with the manufacturer. Also SPC is always super easy to talk to so feel free to contact them as well.

SPC contact link
http://www.spcalignment.com/contact-us

 

Thanks for the tips! @AcadianTaco mine look just like yours only I don't have the castle nut and pin. Inner portion of the bushings are tapered. I spoke with wheelers and they told me mine were the newer style. I just need to pick up the missing hardware or re use the old stuff.

Thanks again.

 

Put a new/never mounted set on this week and they did not have grease zerks, instead we removed the boot and added grease inside it then reinstalled it. The problem now is when I had it aligned yesterday, by a shop known to be trusted, the camber adjustment slipped out. Shop test drove it, told me it's ready to go and when I pulled out of their lot I could feel it pulling right. Called shop and they had me to the right to left front wheel swap believing it to be the tires, which it wasn't, went back and they told me it slipped out of adjustment and they have had problems with this type of setup before. They want me to find "fixed" UCAs and they will align it for me again. Any suggestions on making these work? I have since torqued the big nut to 165 foot pounds hoping it will help.

 

Not sure a properly torqued bolt at 150 lbs would slip before you drive 200 yards on the street.

 

That said I'll give you $50 for those pieces of crap.

 

Sounds like the top nut was not torqued properly