URD 2.8" S/C pulley install

Well I finally broke down and installed my URD 2.8" S/C pulley after striking out on finding a place to do it for me and I am glad I did it. I was worried about doing it myself and screwed it up I am shit outta luck with fixing it. But I figured if I am a field engineer for a 24 foot tall $22 million robotic weapon system then I can handle this with the right tools. So with the URD press in hand, a set of 3 jaw pulley pullers, and the URD instructions I went forth and here are my instructions and what I found...

1) Let truck cool overnight (VERY IMPORTANT, it will help a lot is all the engine components are cold.

2) Remove skid plate(Optional depending on skidplate). I have the Allpro skids and was able to get to my tensioner front under the driver side without removing my plate.

3) From under the truck, put 1/2 socket drive into tensioner. It is an aluminum colored mount- turn clockwise. I used a 1/2" ratchet.

4) While keeping pressure on the wrench remove belt from the supercharger pulley. I used a block of wood to keep the wrench in it place.

5) Install bolt into supercharger snout to keep from damaging threads with puller.

6) Install puller centered in the bolt and use a strap wrench/oil filter wrench to hold the pulley and keep from spinning.

7) Begin turning puller nut (will be tough at first but once the pulley starts moving it will begin to get easier. Use strap wrench to keep pulley from turning. Keep going until pulley pops off the supercharger snout.

8) Put replacement S/C pulley in a pan of boiling water and let heat up.

9) If using URD press tool follow instruction, if using a comercial press tool follow those instructions. My reccomendation is to use the URD press too, its simple and easy to use. Important, once you begin pressing on the new heated pulley, try to go as fast as possible once its going on straight. Its gets significantly harder once the heat spreads to the S/C snout and it begins to expand as well. It can be done, jsut gets harder. Once you start pressing on the pulley, do not stop until all the way on. The Pulley should sit flush with the end of the S/C snout just as the last one did.

10) Once pulley is on and press tool removed, re-install the s/c drive belt. Double check the entire belt. My lower section had popped off a lower pulley but the tention looked correct, I would have shredded my belt at the least if I had cranked my engine so double check your belt.

11) Start engine and ENJOY...


Thats my write up on how to do it. It really is that simple. Here is what I have noticed...

The power band feels PERFECT now. More power down low and feels like it pulls harder longer when giving it the beans. Because of the increased boost it now feels like even at partial throttle the power comes on sooner and smoother and the engine seems to respond so much better to having this pulley on it. Is it possible the engine was running a bit rich with the TRD tune and intake I had, now it seems to be running just right. I was getting about 22 mpg running around town today. All in all I am VERY happy with the pulley's performance I am just bummed I waiting this long to install it.

 

Thanks for the detailed writeup. I have been interested in the URD 2.8" SC Pulley for a while but worry about how it will affect my fuel mileage. Most of my driving is <25% load, so being "in boost" more often due to the smaller pulley leads me to believe fuel mileage will suffer. Maybe not if the engine isn't working as hard to sustain momentum.

Please update this thread periodically with your real-world experience with this pulley in relation to fuel mileage vs. power gain.

 

thanks for sharing. how long did the install take you? - seems fairly easy

 

Did you run into any issues getting the OEM pulley off?

 

No, it came off just fine. My reccomendation (as well as URD's) is to let it sit overnight so the engine is cool. There was a bit of resistance as first but once the pulley started moving it slid right off.


Novakills,
Not really so bad for milage, I find I can put it in a much higher gear when putting around town. I see numbers on my scan gauge of 20-24mpg around town. Its the stop lights that kill me and bring it down to 17-18mpg.

JGJ,
It took 2-3 hours. Mainly because I was going slow, double checking stuff and being pretty anal about it. The biggest part is once you get the new pulley going, dont stop. It will get harder as the heat transfers into the snout causing it to expand but at that point your going to have to use some ass to keep turning the wrench. I removed the pulley press 4 times to check th progress and make sure the new pulley was lined up perfectly even with the end of the snout.

 

Does anyone know what they use on the snout and the stock pulley to see if it was removed at all for the warranty? It looks like a little dab of JB weld or something like that.

 

yellow paint marker, i think.

 

It's called Torque Seal.

 

when it comes to warranty, u dont think they are told to use calipers? We arent the first toonyloons to swap pullies

 

did you stay with your same fuel pump?or did you change that too?

 

who?

 

OP

 

Thanks for the right up! I need to get this done ASAP!