Mid Travel BS 2.0

with some long enough bump stops he won't

 

Send me a build link and I'll add it.

You have Marks old LSKs right?

 

Hey look at my really cool new shocks and towers....that I had to add hige bump stops for and now It don't get as much travel as stock

Edit - sorry I do not mean that to a bash on the owner, this is just what I have been trying to warn people about. You have to be really careful when you add shock hoops or towers you can seriously end up with less stuffage /\ travel than stock. My truck has tire rub marks on the bed / wheel well from years ago when I had stock leafs and 285's...so how exactly do you add all that shit in there and not lose travel....hmmmm. Just trying to say you really need to mock stuff up and think it through because buying a cool leaf pack, cool shocks and having some cool fab work done to mount it all ...and then discovering that you lost articulated up travel can be a heartbreaker

 

at least it'll have some down travel haha

 

Nope never did. But what do I know. Not like I cycled it or used it.

 

Can you go flex it and take some photos...that will just blow my mind if you are not rubbing your shocks or loosing articulation. You do have some mighty big bump stops on there but still...with a stock set up a tire can rub the wheel well on a second gen, I realize it's a tundy tho...

 

Sorry see my edit, did not mean to sound so dickish, seen many people make the mistake with second gens

 

That truck is long gone... Guess who has his Kings

 

Exhibit A - this is tire rub mark on my bed / inner wheel well that happened when I still had leafs and OE shock locations. I can't remember if it happened when I had 285's w/ a 3" Denver pack or if it was when 8 had 35's ? I then later installed hoops that were tucked right up against the wheel well and the shock sat as close to the frame as it possibly could and my tires then made rough sex with the shock bodies. This is why I keep saying that tires will hit an outboard mounted shock...it happened to me. I'm not saying don't do it, just be aware and mock it up first because again spending all that cashola and then realizing you lost travel is a bummer.

 

So that's the bazillion dollar question. Any takers on presenting the answer?? I know it's not all that simple but I'm interested in the process involved.

 

Heard it's called unicorn jizz...some just kinda have it and some don't

 

Surveys says...add wheel spacers to regain that space...but then you can't just add spacers to the back and have your rear wheels wider than your front wheels...so then you have to add them to the front too...but then awww crap now that added front wheel spacers my scrub radius is wider and now my front tires are having rough dry hump sex with stuff that they didn't hit before...now I have to chop more off of my cab mount and beat my firewall in even more and trim my fender and flare even more

Again...not trying to talk anyone out of it, the performance gains are there just think if we are putting together the MT bible it should be honest an all inclusive. Most of us have run into these unforeseen this before and it always sux

 

Man ...someone should bottle that stuff...need Magic valving - unicorn jizz, need magic tire clearance - unicorn jizz, need 50 hp...well just add some TRD stickers, need extra travel - unicorn jizz

 

So here is a dangerous question. If by adding 35s (and with that a wider tire) you rub the shocks and can't fully stuff the tire. Are 35s really worth it? I mean with my tall skinny 33s I won't have near as much of an issue rubbing shocks on a relocation kit because they are only 10.xx" wide. Someone with 35" tires is going to likely have a 12.xx" wide tire. So I lose 1" of ground clearance but gain more up travel with my suspension because I can stuff the tire without running into everything else.

Is it a considerable trade off or do the benefits of the 35" tall tire really outweigh everything else.

 

The tire is where you truly gain ground clearance... so the added sidewall seems beneficial.. but I'm with you.. I'll keep my 33's.. maaaaaybe go to a 285/75/17 or a 295/70/17.. but that's it. I dont want to worry about all this.. not to mention the impact on MPG (I dont really care, but this is an issue for others) power loss, and overall strain.

 

There is a whole thread I linked in the FAQ for 3" w 35s.

They are a royal pain in the ass to fit. This is why I went 285x75r17/(34x11.50)
It's not as wide as a 35 but almost as tall.

 

That was on my Tacoma, my tundra is all Oem replacement kings. As far as the bump stops go keep in mind I was spring under. I had plenty of up travel. Plus they compressed a surprising amount plus I trimmed after that picture was taken anyway. Also they were angled pretty far forward as to keep them lower and better tucked. If I was articulating hard the tire could hit the tubing in my fender well but not the actual shock itself.

I had plenty of travel and it was all valved the way I wanted it be myself after I learned how. Not many people in here who are mid travel experts have valved there own shocks. :rollseyes:

And I know you weren't being a dick head. Lol

 

I'm here to play.

 

Yeah I have browsed in the other thread. My main point here was that the wider the tire, the more chances of rubbing so if you want to really take advantage of your suspension a narrower tire might be the trick regardless of height. I wish they made a 35" x 10.5" tire.

 

No 35" pizza cutter. Closest you will get is the 285x75r17 but choices in brand are limited.

The Toyo is a 33.9 in both the MT and ATII. This is my personal favorite and what I run.

There is a new 34x10.50r17 KO2, but its real measurement is 33.4 according to the sites I've hit.