How to remove the double drive shaft?

Happy Thanksgiving all..I am going to change out my U joints this weekend. I have a question on the drive shaft removal from the carrier bearing...Does the shaft slide through that? Or do I have to unbolt the carrier bearing as well? Also, how does the shaft come out from the transmission? Does it just slide out? I will change out all 3 U joints since I have it apart. Any advice?

Thanks
Bruce

 

my experience with this is on a ranger with a carrier bearing, keep that in mind. but you have to unbolt the bearing and removed the drive shaft in one peace and split the drive shaft to remove it, and for god's sake mark the drive shaft thoroughly, or you will be in a world of hurt. I had a shop do the carrier bearing in my ranger, they didn't mark it and it was never the same. they sent it to several driveshaft shops and could not get it 100% balanced again. and making sure that shaft is well balanced is sorta important, if not it will eat up your pinion bearing like it is its job.
hope it helps

 

I just changed out my rear 2 U-joints a couple weeks ago. It came out pretty easy once I had the right tools. Start first by putting the truck in park, press the parking brake, and chock all the wheels. Have a helping hand. Have the other person hold the 14mm bolt with a 14mm wrench. You (or the stronger person) use another 14mm wrench to remove the 14mm nuts. (I am referring to the 14mm bolts attaching the driveshaft to the rear diff). Use a hammer and bang the the end of the driveshaft until it separates from the rear diff. Remove the carrier bearing via the 2 bolts. I forgot the bolt size but I want to say 14mm as well). BE CAREFUL and have your helper hold the driveshaft so that it does not injure one of you or gets damaged. Slide the driveshaft out of the slip yoke.

Remove the "C" clips on the rear U-joint. Use a big socket or something similar (cylinder like), and place it below the yoke (the other end of the U-joint). This lets the U-joint come out of the other side. Use a socket that fits inside the yoke and attach a socket extension. Use a hammer and pound it out. Don't go too far or else you'll damage the yoke with the U-joint. Continue this for the rest of the U-joint(s). I changed out my rear one because it was shot. I also changed out my middle one because I don't want to wait for it to brake. The one closest to the cab is known to last a while.

I hope my instructions were clear enough to help ya out. I had no one tell me how to do it and I just winged it. It took me about 4 hours with Will (DaWillDaBeast). Make sure you have a grease gun if your new U-joints have grease zerks.

 

Thanks for the advice guys.
Ok, Today I removed the driveshaft but let me tell you...the 14mm bolts attaching to the Diff were a beast to get off. I had to go buy a pipe for leverage on the wrench. Finally got hose off and the carrier bearing. However, when I sliped the yoke out, transmission fluid came out. about a 1/4 of a cup. I wasnt expecting that. Is that normal? Do I need to replace that amount when putting back?

My ujpoint closest to the yoke was shot. Couldnt move the joint at all.
I am replacing all 3 joints. I am half way done, but ran out of daylight. I attached a pic of my bad joint.

 

4 cups make 1 quart, 1/4 cup really isn't that much. I wouldn't worry about it unless my trans rear seal was leaking. In all the transmission holds about 11 quarts of oil.

 

Mine looked exactly like that. Completely dried out. Except that it was my rear one. Oil came out of my transmission, too. But not enough to worry about.

 

will choke oil come out from the axel side of the driveshaft?