Dual Battery Setups! Let's see them! Multiple Batteries Thread!

That sounds good. I was worried about what cable size you would use to the winch but sounds like you are doing it right.

 

According to Bluesea they recommend a dual drop of 4/0 to meet specs which include something like 2000 amps continuous for 1 min. I think I should be safe with a single drop of 4/0 rated for 700amps at 20' MAX. Stuffs expensive, heavy and doesn't look fun to route. $7 bucks a foot + Shipping

 

Use welding cable

I use carolprene brand from my local electrical supply house

 

Any benefits other than around $1-2 less a foot?

Was planning on this:
http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-a...kolossus-fleks-red-40-gauge-powerground-wire/

Super flexible stuff, oxygen free copper high strand count. I've used it in the past in 4g for my compressor install and it made routing a bit easier.

 

For me the fact that i am an electrican and i have an account with them is the main reason
I just order it in the morning and it is at my house by 2pm for free

Verry rugged and strong i did a 3/0 run to two batteried in the cab behind back seats and was verry easy to route on the passenger side door trim peices

 

Make sure you get a quality fuse or breaker in there too to protect all that wire and your truck. A good breaker might be a better choice than that on/off as you could trip the breaker when you weren't using it and it would serve dual purpose.

Ive heard of people doing double runs, but if you get wire rated for 700 amps and only plan on 500-600 I think you're playing it safe - as you should. Personally, I've never dealt with loads that high.

Do you think 500 amps is the max you'd pull? I read in another thread that people were talking about some winches pulling 800.

 

Welding cable has a rubber jacket wich really doesnt melt easy but the stuff in the link will melt with the heat from a torch when heatshrinking ends because its pvc

 

There aren't many breakers that can handle that much amperage, on/off is pretty much the best bet other than an always hot winch.

My WARN (VR1000s) is rated at max pull 10,000lbs at 502AMPS. Winches vary greatly on power efficiency though, the higher end you go usually the more efficient they are with power consumption.

Only fuse I plan to run is a 300A inline next to the battery bank for the "main run" to the engine bay stud/factory wiring + Bluesea aux fuse panel thats on a 100A breaker. My compressor will also be hardwired to the house battery on the existing inline 120A fuse.

Anyone recommend something different?

 

You ran the power wires internal through the firewall? Was planning on popping a hole/ using existing body plugs in the floor near the battery bank to minimize high current runs through the truck. Guess I could use a bulk head style connector to make it easily removable if the cab has to come off..hmm

 

I did run them through the cab i at first was going to go through those plugs but i found out that they cover the cab mount bolts and i disnt want to cover them up

 

There is a prime candidate basically smack dab in the middle of the cab maybe a little closer to the pass side. Good size plug, not the body mount covers. Was going to run the wires along the frame, up over the carrier bearing xmember and into the cab.

 

I also went thru the cab and along the door jamb

 

When going into the cab i have used cord grip connectors to make a watertight and reliable seal arround the wire if you want measure the size of the hole and size of the wire ad i can get a part # for you

 

Or just drill your own hole with a hole saw ive done that too

 

Did you guys use existing holes or made new? Definitely want to make my holes water tight at the minimum splash proof

 

I drilled all new holed and used these

 

I went thru the rubber firewall grommet. Just punched a small hole with a screw driver and jammed it thru. I couldn't find a bulk head that fit my wire tight enough. I then ran it down behind the driver's kick panel and down under the plastic trim door jamb. For the ground I ran it thru one of the rubber plugs under carpet underneath the middle of the rear seatbacks

 

Guess I have to do a bit more planning before I start buying stuff aimlessly and turning this into something complex.

Any ideas on how many feet you guys used approximately running through the cab?

 

Don't remember exactly, but somewhere near 10-12 feet from the back of the underhood fuse block to the battery for the positive run and another 6 or so feet for the negative. I ordered about 40 feet of 1/0 for the big 3, runs for the aux battery, and a 1500watt inverter under my seat but had some left over. I probably used 25-30 feet for my charging system

 

Anybody know of a good write up for install of a Blue Sea ML-ACR? I get the main concepts from Blue Sea's diagrams, but pictures and a write up would be a huge help.

My main questions about the install of the remote switch in the cab.
1. There is a 2amp fused wire run from pin 8 to the positive terminal of house battery im guessing for voltage detection. Can I connect this to the big power terminal on the ML-ACR for the house battery? Im guessing Id get less voltage drop by connecting to the 1/0 cable that runs from the ML-ACR to the house battery.
2. There is another 2amp fused wire (isolation #1 wire brown) that is connected to the wire running from start key switch to the starter solenoid. Which wire is this?

And just for those who may be doing research on isolators.... I just ordered the ML-ACR to replace my perfect switch power gate. The power gate is a great isolator, but after a couple years of use I think it has more cons than pros with my desired use and setup. I ordered the ML-ACR mainly so that batteries will be disconnected when starting and when the truck is off. With the power gate I have a sneaking suspicion that my big house battery is doing most of the work and causing premature wear. This type of isolator has covered up my failing starter battery for a while.....