Got stuck in 4Lo

That is the one thing that I REALLY miss about my Wrangler. Electronic 4wd buttons are bull, they suck on everything, doesn't matter what brand.

 

Just swap the FJ case in, I've had a manual shifting transfer case in mine for 4 years now

 

One of the rental JKs I drove didn't like to go into or out of 4lo, i.e. the lever wouldn't get into the gate. I think you'd have the same problem with either a lever or an electronic actuator, if the gears in the T-case aren't lined up.

 

Yeah, our old work Chev gets stuck in 4Lo if some idiot puts it in 4Lo. It's a lever version but things are messed up in the transfer case I think.

I always use 4Lo on the trails here. It's basically air down and throw it in 4Lo at the airdown spot. As others have said it cleans out the tires better it seems and it's honestly better to be crawling around at under 20 mph where I am than anything else.

 

The electronics are far more complicated, far more expensive, and much less reliable. The lever on the transfer case works every time, there are no gears to get lined up, the shift forks just engage the collars.

 

4lo could be tricky but once you find the sweet spot you can shift it with 2 fingers.

I miss being able to bump it into 4hi or back to 2wd just by letting off the throttle and nudging the lever. Tried doing that some today around the farm (lots of tight turns so it's easier in 2wd but you need 4wd once your momentum stops) and the Tacoma sucks for that. Takes WAYYYYYY too long to shift.

 

Mine would not come out of 4 Low today took a few backups and forwards and neutrals, etc. Here was my dilemma.

I got stuck in a deep snow drift today out at the Pawnee Grass Lands in Northern Colorado. It took me about an hour to dig it out. There was a lot of going forward and reverse with high RPMs to get it to pull it self out. Do you guys think I caused any damage to the 4wd system or perhaps burnt the transmission fluid (someone mentioned earlier)? I am just wondering if I should take it in and have it checked out.?

Btw, I tried everything - 4LO with rear diff locked, ATRAC, etc. At the end of the day, I am not sure I was so pleased with the performance of my 2015 TRD Pro.

S

 

You got in deep enough to unload the wheels. Nothing about you not being able to get out is the truck's fault.

 

Get a good set of traction aids. You would of been out of that in a jif.

 

The manual transfer case in my 01 4Runner always gave me grief. Manual transfer case in my in-laws' 07 FJ is always causing them grief (not shifting properly) but the electronic (garbage?) dials in my 06 and now my 13 have never let me down. Lots of hate for the transfer case dials on this site. I've had experience with both for a decade and no complaints with the dial.

 

Screw traction aids... you need some good chains.

 

I bet those monster chains have some bite !!!!!
Where did you get those?
Are they easy to put on?

 

You can only chain the rears in a stock Tacoma. There's not enough clearance in front for the chains. Even then they can tear up your fenders in the rear too if not setup properly. However, barring those issues, chains do help a ton in deep snow.

 

I am old schooled. Chain on front helps alot to give control. Using the right set of chain will help to get out most slick issues.
Never buy cheap chain. Always go for middle to top end brand and depends on your use for will be factor in.

 

Huh, I guess I should have taken the camry out then.

 

I converted my truck to 4wd. I didn't use the FJ case, I used the stock Tacoma transfer case. I also didn't use the 4wd ECU. I created my own relay logic electrical circuit to do the shifting. Through this process I learned a few things. The actuators move a collar in the front differential and one in the transfer case. If you take the actuator off, you can see it and move it back and forth easily. If there is anything binding (or for any reason the actuator is getting power but the collar isn't moving), it makes a loud clicking sound. It's very noticeable. It sounds awful.

With that said, if it's not coming out of 4LO and you aren't hearing that sound, then the actuator likely isn't being sent a signal to disengage. It seems pretty common that the computer just gets confused about what position the switch and transfer case are in as well as the status of the limiting factors (speed, transmission gear, etc). The computer monitors all of these things to decide if it's safe to shift, particularly to/from 4LO. This is likely why changing gears and turning off the truck seem to 'fix' this.

TLDR; From what I can tell, there is nothing mechanical that keeps the t-case from shifting. It seems to be the ECU getting confused. Turn the truck off, then try again.

 

Um, okay? You buried the truck to the frame. How exactly would you expect it to get you out without digging? Also, why'd you pull the pics?

 

I will get a chance to test out 4lo again next weekend. Have tested shifting in/out a few more times and it seems to work consistently. It's possible It needed to be lubed up. I have not had a need/remembered to run it in 4Hi at all.

 

There is nothing to lube up by shifting into 4wd. There are tiny RC car like motors in there. One of the limit switches probably got gummed up and it got wiped clean by exercising the actuator.

 

Spot on. Something like this is more likely the issue. Like I posted earlier, if there's no loud clicking, then the actuator isn't getting power. Which would mean some electrical component is faulting the computer into not sending power to the actuator.