2016 Tacoma Double Cab Audio Install Build

That would be awesome. I'll PM you with my email. I don't have nearly that much time into this, and although I am pretty impressed with how it sounds I am not nearly there. With the guy I am looking to have Tune it he has been on the Mobile Electronics Top 50 installers list for like the last four years. I have not worked with him but he's got a pretty good reputation at least in the mid west. I am supposed to set-up with him after the holiday assuming I have the funds. My guess; very expensive. Anyway I would really appreciate the help and the files.

 

And this is exactly why i Do not suggest Processors to people. Some processors are nice to run still through passive for the other qualities but 90% of people do not have the time nor the skill to get it all setup correct in an active setup. They end up damaging their equipment and a ton of headaches compared to the basic EQ, phase and time alignment one can do with passive setups through a processor

 

They are definitely not for everyone. But they are an absolute necessity for a certain type of people.

 

Do you by chance have all the measurements for this box and to the cut list??

 

@garyinok thanks for the thread man. First time tacoma owner here (2016 DCSB 4x4 SR5). Didn't get the JBL package. Bought some aftermarket speakers off of crutchfield over black friday and have not found instructions on removing the interior panels, wound you mind mentioning the screw(s) that need to be removed? I see one in the handle pocket, but not one at the actual lock/latch? Thanks for your help!

 

Sure; I have a sketch and instruction sheet that I got off the Toyota Site. Not sure how clear it came out, but I will try and post for you. If not PM me and I will figure out a way to send it to you.


One word of caution, when you pull the wing trim off the little white clips tend to want to stay in the door. They can push through and drop so you will want to be careful not to push on them. Get a pair of pliers and grab them and then put them back on the trim piece. I learned the hard way. $5 each at Toyota.

 

How's the sound quality from the stock h/u using the eq? Ive started down the same road and have a hard time seeing a clean signal coming from that unit as it sounds now. Thanks.

 

I finally got the subs broken in and had some tuning done and I am pretty happy with how it turned out. This is a system I had in my previous vehicle so I was somewhat familiar with how it could sound, but in the Tacoma I had a few compromises I had to make. One was keeping the head unit. So far I am very impressed with the stock unit, although without the BitOne I'm not really sure how it would do. There's a lot of factory equalizations that have to be dealt with. The other compromise was the tweeter location. Without making a mod of some kind I was stuck with the dash location. This turned out to be no issue at all, or at least not anything that couldn't be dealt with. I was committed to making this 100% stock, and completely invisible so nothing in the pillars or wings. Last compromise was no sound deadening. This was more a limitation I put on myself. I've deadened cars for years, and I just hate the stuff. This was probably the most surprising one of all. The guy tuning the system didn't know and kept commenting on how tight the doors sound. I finally told him at the end.

So overall I am pretty impressed with the whole thing. The sundown 8's are truly amazing. The BitOne makes the most out of the pretty impressive head unit. I'm going to run it for a few weeks and see how it goes.

 

If the windshield and dash are causing tweeter reflection issues, then you might want to look into getting a dashmat. I got one and it makes a huge difference with my tweeters in the a pillars. To see if it will make a difference try laying down a towel on your dash and do an A-B comparison on some songs. Some folks can use the reflections to their advantage while others just try to eliminate it. It's very vehicle and location specific, so definitely not a one size fits all sort of thing. Funny enough, I also found that putting closed cell foam (e.g., ensolite) on the back side of the rear view mirror made an improvement.

 

Actually this is not nearly the issue I was afraid it would be. With the 2016 the options are pretty limited, but IMHO it's really a non issue. I'm pretty blown away at how good this sounds.

 

Hi Garyinok, THANK YOU for the posts and constant updates. I did a similar upgrade (minus the Audison bit 1) in my 2012 and it really made a difference. While waiting to take delivery of the 2016, I ordered all the components for the new build - adding in a bit 10 instead of the 1. Here's what I did:

Stock Head Unit (w/o-JBL)
Alpine PDX-F4 Amp
Audison BitTen Signal Processor
Alpine SPR-60c for the fronts
Alpine SPR-60 for the rears
Kenwood KSC-SW11 powered sub (I decided to go with the Kenwood sub as I don't like, need that much bass. I pulled it from the 2012 build and it did exactly what I wanted it to).

NVX Sound deadening
Ensolite IUO

Well the 2016 has arrived and I only need to get a few final last items.

Garyinok, when you mentioned the wire harnesses for the head unit, you listed two (the

$5 70-1761 Radio Wiring Harness For Toyota 87-Up Power 4 Speaker

70-1761 and

$11 71-1761 87 - 94 Toyota Vehicle Harness

71-1761). I used the 70-1761 in my 2012 build and I was wondering if you needed parts off the 71-1761??

Also - how did your tuning go with the Audison? I would love to see what you ended up with as the EQ settings go.

Thanks again for all your hard work and posts - everyone.

 

On the wiring Harnesses. One is a reverse harness so I could plug it into the wires coming to the radio and plug the other end into the radio. Basically making a female to male adapter and but hooking the speakers into the bit one instead of our to the speakers. This way the original harness is left untouched. It worked like a charm except of the dimmer wire. I needed to move one of the male pins over a slot so the dimmer would be connected. There are a few threads on here about it. Easy to do and everything works just like it did from factory.

On the tuning it went very well other than taking a long time. I figured it would be a couple of hours give or take, but it was an all day adventure. When I had this system in my Veloster I didn't invest in having the tuning done and had a local shop just run an RTA on it. I know now that was a mistake. This sounds way better than it ever did in the Veloster. It really made a lot of difference, but it was a bit pricey. Not to say it wasn't worth it, just not what I had in the budget. I haven't used the BitTen, so I don't really know what the differences are. I know Toyota has a ton of equalization built into the stock system that the BitOne took out. Not sure if the BitTen does that or not.

 

Thanks for sharing!

 

Do those 8s beat hard? Ive never had a sub smaller than a 10".

 

Not sure how to define beats hard, but I guess it's all relative. I originally had a Focal 33KX which was a single 13". This was a massive speaker and when I got the Tacoma there was no way to get a driver this big in without making some major compromises. So with 1000W to work with I had to find a driver that would both fit (both physically and on box volume), and handle the power. The pair of eights was just a better combination than anything else I could find. Now that they are in and running it was absolutely the right choice. These blow the focal out of the water. Amazing response and depth. They go down every bit as low as the focal, but have better response in the upper ranges. Supplement my mid base drivers very well. So I guess yeah they hit hard.

 

Hi Garyinok, great install. I actually showed yours to a local shop and they quoted over $1500 labor only to install a similar set up. They said $800 to install my Hertz high energy components, rear JL audio 6.5 inch, audiocontrol lc7i, alpine pdx-5 channel amp and my own sub box. I just had Mr. Marv make my adapters which are great. For that price I think I am going to tackle myself. My question is about how to tap into the speaker wires behind the HU to run 2 sets to the LOC. Not sure if I need the tweeter wire, front door speaker and full range rear door speaker to run. I wanted to mount the hertz tweeter with the surface angle mount on that black triangle by the outside mirror. Also should I run new wire, I know you said it was tough to get through the boot. Thanks for any info you can provide, I greatly appreciate it. Bob

 

Simply tap into the right wires for the loc or get the metra reverse kit

 

I would get the metra adapter and use it to tap into the speaker outs behind the deck. As far as the tweeters I was contemplating putting the tweets in the sails. My opinion a complete waste of time. The stock locations turned out to be awesome. I used the stock wires as well. Again no issues.

 

Thanks for your input, should I get the ones you listed. Also would you mind sending me your Toyota front door removal pics. My email is sharonandbob2003@yahoo.com. Thanks again

 

great job!
I like your approach to keeping everything ready to return to stock. Would like to do the same...