Wobble under braking, wtf?

So,

I did some research on this and the general consensus for causes of wobble under braking are warped brake rotors.

Anyway, I had the problem arise at about 90,000 miles, or so. At 100,000 miles I replaced the brake rotors, brake pads and bled the brakes. Also had new tires installed and an alignment performed. Truck was fine and the wobble went away. Over the past several months wobble had returned, now it's at the point where it almost seems dangerous. It's especially noticeable when going downhill and more weight is over the front.

I've checked the wheel bearings and tie rods and don't think they are to blame.

I'm now thinking maybe the rotors I threw on are junk and warped already. I went with Duralast, lifetime warranty from Autozone. The warranty seems pretty worthless if the same thing is going to happen in another few thousand miles.

My questions are:

Any ideas on what is causing my issue?

Any suggestions on better brake rotors?

I'd like to avoid spending money on needless parts, but also would like to resolve the issue.

Thanks

 

I had the same issue but I bought toyota brake rotors and pads. I have not had any issues arise so far.

 

Long time no see Jeff. It's probably the cheap ass rotors that's causing your vibration under braking. I would get some quality rotors that can handle the heat and not wrap

 

Also check that the brake pads are releasing completely. If one or both are dragging they can overheat and warp the rotors. I've used duralast rotors several times without issues.
Other things that could also cause wobbling, although to a lesser extent, would be worn bearings, tie rod ends, ball joints, or control arm bushings.

 

Make sure your wheels aren't too tight. Over torqued lug nuts can cause premature warpage on the rotors.
I torque all my lugs at 100ft lbs. Been doing that for 15 years on all vehicles.

If you're not using a torque wrench to tighten your lugs, you may want to consider buying one and using it each time.

 

Thanks for the replies. I was thinking it's probably the rotors but just sucks since I just replaced them! Must be my professional level driving where the off the shelf stuff just can't hang

Lugnuts are always tightened with torque wrench to factory specs, as are all other bolts.

 

Bpv? Maybe your front brakes are doing to much of the braking. Causeing the rotors to warp.

 

^^^^^This^^^^^^

 

But rotors with a life time warranty. I was in a bind and all the parts store had in stock at the time had a 1 year warranty. They lasted about 3 months.
I brought them back and bought the good ones. Problems solved.

 

I bet you did not put in NEW slider pins that the pads slide on... That happened to me.... the caliper are sticking on one side of the rotor and not the other... that will cause a wobble....... Remove the old ones and replace, and lube those pins... no more wobble, I bet..

Good luck

 

Junk Chinese rotors, Have the old ones turned if you still have them and there still in spec.

 

Yep! Much better to pay the bit extra and get OEM ones or cut the old ones of they are still in spec.

 

I wouldnt waste time or money on getting them turned...if they are warped it will come back in no time...I tried getting a set of rotors turned and it was good for a month then the warp was back...I just broke down and got some new rotors, pads etc..lube the pins and make sure your caliper isnt binding..

 

Cut them on them while on the vehicle, most newer vehicles that's what your suppose to do

 

So if i go through a parts store, which ones aren't junk chinese lol? Is it Toyota's brand only that aren't.

I'm getting a wobble under hard braking more so and just called a shop that I deal with. Guy told me yes about the toyotas he recommends changing the rotors vs turning them.
I was going to check Rock auto as well and compare prices but i certainly won't buy cheap and have to pay labor again to put better ones on.

 

so what did you end up doing?
I have the same situation now

 

Yes good rotors are expensive. We all want walmart pricing and that's what we get. Always best to machine OEM rotor when possible. Good shops turn rotors, slam bam shops install rotors. Very time consuming to properly turn rotors.

 

I'm not sure I get what you are saying okay if I go to the parts store which ones should I go with as far as what they will offer me what should I look for ect. or should I just get the Toyota ones or what I mean I am all for comparing prices and that's what I do but I want to get a good one. And not sure if you are saying that a good shop well you said always good to machine OEM ones. I'm guessing by by saying machining I'm guessing you're saying to have them turned? excuse the speech to text lol

 

Yes if the shop can turn them you will be better off. Call around and find shop that will. As long as rotor is not passed limits you can have your original ones turned. If new ones are needed then you will have to see whats available, I have never priced Toyota ones but I did for a buick 2 years ago and they were 200 bucks each from dealer. I know ouch!

 

Dang!!!

I guess they will be able to look at them to see whether they are even warped or not or they have to take them off first? Tires need rotating probably this week or next week so that's when I'm going to let them inspect

If they can't tell whether they are warped then what or how will they be able to justify turning them lol but I'm sure they have a process for that