What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Should. Same door and Id be amazed if Toyota changed that. Harness could be different but should bolt in. Not a fun job. But not bad.

 

Its $90 on rock auto for just the lock motor. Its in the "body" category

 

[QUOTE="quetzal, post: 11631528, member: 12801mool! I wouldn't advise that mod. I did it on mine and even though they are a huge improvement over the oe bulbs, the beam they put out resembles chicken feet. It's pretty annoying too. (my .02 anyway)[/QUOTE]

Hids in all 6 of mine. The beam stayed pretty much the same with a little more flooding off to the sides. Hids were alot brighter than the 100watt bulbs i had in them.

 

Have you done it before? I have already had to change the window motor.

Is this it? http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1354990&cc=1375343&jnid=525&jpid=0 Whenever I press the lock or lock the doors with the key, you can hear it grinding. Is it this piece I need or the entire assembly?

Thansk for the help

 

Check out @Blackdawg build thread, or just search PVC washer fluid relocation. I have a link to his in my build thread too.

It's easy and cheap.

 

I swapped my electric window and locks over to the new doors when i did the cab swap. Everything bolted up perfect. Toyota is very efficient in that regard.

 

Hyperlink is in the OP. Here is the link though: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...trail-rig-and-bs.159436/page-399#post-8802626

I would use bigger(thicker) Zip ties then my pictures show. Even 6'' hose clamp might work or 7'' or bigger. I want to change to hose clamps, just haven't tried it yet.

 

Thanks. If thats the right part on rock auto, will be ordering it and hopefully doing it next week. Cant seem to find any 4runners or tacomas with the complete doors... everyones already gone through and stripped them clean.

 

another thing is I think the rear turn/stop(brake)/run light share a common ground and this may be causing the issue. I remember a post about this but its bedtime, GL!

 

How easy is it to remove the steering rack? I'm tempted to do the tac weld mod this weekend, but I'm not going to have time to do anything intensive.

 

You should only have to remove the steering column but it's a bit of a pain.

 

Right, that's what I meant. A pain doesn't make it seem like I'll have time. I just found a write-up over on TTORA

 

I was just doing some searching about this, wonder how these would do

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-673-1003?seid=srese1&gclid=COjkop_NvMoCFYMDaQodIZEOGQ

 

Well tore into my dash and got my 4wd indicator light fixed and now my
speedometer and high beams don't work and check engine light is on! Fix one problem and cause three more! Can't seem to catch a break! Lol

 

Ummm...


Please tell me this isn't true..but did you paint the actual shock shaft?

And

Please tell me those aren't 5100s and they are compressing the coils AND you have a spacer..

 

Reds cool. Spacer lift...not so much.

 

Hmmm maybe they are 5100. in that one pic with them mounted on truck you can kinda see grooves....but then again it almost looks like the diameter of the shock changes after the spring perch....


And this doesn't look like a 06 trd sport lol

 

Hmmm very interesting indeed