What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Even stronger yet.

 

In cab switch + cable pendant switch + wireless remote switch + under hood solenoid + quick disconnect battery cable + Technora winch rope, best of all worlds.

 

Wishing I could go play....

 

Had my OEM CV rebooted at CVJ today. Dropped it off at 0900 they called me around 1230, all for $46.50, it was for the inner boot. Hope i don't have to use it, as it's a spare but i was impressed by their quick turnaround.

 

That's a good price! I pay about $30 after shipping for the inner boot kit. $16 to save all that mess isn't too bad at all.

 

The dashboard 4wd indicator light is triggered by a switch on the ADD actuator (front diff). Transfer case position (engaged enabling ADD or not) is determined by the switch on the t-case. Both switches are similar if not the same in appearance.

 

Swapped in a standard 1147 bulb and it worked fine.

 

Well I messed with the nipple with ball and a tiny spring to make contact with the connector on the transfer case sensor and it is working perfect now! It was like a chain result because now my ABS light comes on when I turn on my diff lock! It didn't before!

 

And I didn't plug in the plug on the transfer case sensor which is the VSS and now everything is working lol well except my brights and indicator won't work!

 

Yep, a failure anywhere in the engagement sequence will stop the process.
All those ball/plunger switches throughout the truck can be problematic. ADD, 4wd, 4lo, t-case neutral, reverse and rear locker all suffer.
I had a reverse (back up light) switch act up and cured it by removing the crush washer. This induced a hair more "push" on the plunger and all was well.

 

No I did not.

 

Lucky you...I had to trim

 

Emailed cvj and they gave me a lot of good info. If anyone is interested in there axles look here.

You should not need the boot slide. We do it automatically. Once you install the axles we encourage you look at the boots and adjust the boots for your running angles if needed.
With the silicone inner boot, it is already positioned farther along the shaft. Due to the material it seals and stays where clamped.
The outer boot (neoprene) is a different design better suited to and better positioned for angles.


We can build a set of CVJ Remanufactured CV Axles with two days notice (we have all the parts but don't have any on the shelf). CVJ part number 9802 / 04.
Your cost is $99.00 each plus a core deposit of $75.00 each. Plus freight (UPS ground) which is about $49.00 or less for two in the US - it varies by zip code.

The core deposit of $75.00 is refunded when you return the core. These are critical cores and should be returned within 30 days for full credit.
The core must be the same original Toyota axle. Aftermarket axles cannot be rebuilt and are poor to begin with. Pic to ID OEM axles

These are original manufacturer axles that have been completely Remanufactured by us using some aftermarket parts and neoprene boots.
You get OEM steel and design where it counts at a much better price than new, with CVJ reliability at a much better price.



The axles have a limited lifetime warranty. When used for offroad or in lifted trucks we cannot warrant the axles.


Option 1 - Original OEM Toyota plastic boots on the CV joints (wheel side) are $60.00 each installed on axles we build for you. This boot is the longest lasting because it is made of Hytrel plastic which is tougher, more abrasion resistant and more chemical resistant than the Neoprene we use. Being hard plastic it does not seal as well as Neoprene. This option gets your axles closest to OEM.
There is no warranty on these boots.

Every lift kit is different, each individual uses their truck differently, etc. So, while it is is hard to make specific recommendations here is another boot options that many Toyota truck owners have found valuable:

Option 2- We also offer a red silicone boots for the Inner joints (diff side). These are $42.95 each installed on axles we build for you. (It takes two days)
Many offroaders prefer these for higher angles saying they last longer.
Each lift kit is different. These can help if your inner boots are rubbing on themselves or have longer travel.With the red boot there are a lot more convolutions (ribs) so they can be stretched out so they don't rub or don't rub as much. Also the silicone handles abrasion better than neoprene.These won't be much help with severe angles.{We have heard of a couple reports of suspension combinations that do not provide adequate clearance for this boot}. As a rule of thumb you will need an extra inch of clearance from the existing boot (radially & along the shaft). Please check the clearance before ordering. There is no warranty on these boots.

Option 3 - We also offer a Blue silicone boots for the Outer CV joints (wheel side). These are $35.00 each installed on axles we build for you. (It takes two days)
They don't weather check like the neoprene so they last longer.
Each lift kit is different. These can help if your CV boots are rubbing on themselves or weather checking. The blue silicone boot is a unique design that allows higher angles without rubbing. Also the silicone handles abrasion better than neoprene.These won't be much help with severe angles.There is no warranty on these boots.

 

I'm saying it is supposed to though! That's what my 04 did and I gotta figure out why my diff lock isn't staying lit! Probably just the dumbass plug for it on the actuator.

 

Finished wiring in the new engine bay fuse box and got it out of the garage. 3.4l swap and 4x4conversion done.

 

Fuck yeah! Congrats dude!

 

Thanks bud!

 

That's awesome