UCA removal...Is there a better way?

I was looking at what it would take to replace the UCA. The only way i can see to do it is to remove the inner fender which would be a PITA. Maybe bend the inner fender out of the way or maybe drill a hole but that would bother me. What have you guys done?

 

IIRC the shop that did mine charged me for two bolts when they cut out the original ones. They told me that they put the bolts in backwards when they put in the new UCA. Just a thought.

 

How would you get the new ones in?

Edit: read the other posts. i noticed there was room behind the ucas, just put the new ones in backwards. never thought about cutting the old bolts out Thanks

 

I saw thatright after i posted...

Thanks again. Your the man!!

 

I have a pretty good knowledge of the way things work from years of taking crap apart and putting it back together and fixing crap i break on myself. But there is always something else that can be learned...

 

The passenger side was hardest for me. I bent the fender all out of whack and finally took a pair of tin snips to some of it. The drivers side was a piece of cake after that.

 

I just replaced my UCAs 3 days ago and it wasn't too difficult to massage the sheet metal out of the way to get the bolts out. However, I put the driver's side back in the way it came out because the fuel lines were in the way of going in from the rear. The passenger side was very easy after doing the driver's side.

 

Just bend it a little bit and tap it out, I found it easier to go back in from the front because of brake lines or fuel lines?

 

Best bet is too just bend the fender a little bit to get the bolt out. Even if you cut off the bolt and buy another one and if you put the bolt back in the proper way (way they are from the factory), you will have to bend the fender a bit to get it back on. When I changed my ucas, I was worried at first too, but it just sounds worse then it really is. The fender bends really easy and you only have to bend it a little bit. This is the best way in my opinion.

 

Im really anal about scratching any paint on anything being from northern ny (salt). If i cut the bolt slide it out of the rear and slide the new one in backwards, i wont risk breaking the paintsurface from gripping with channel locks or over stress the paint causing it to chip.

Is there any downside to installing the bolt backwards and use lock tight?? deosnt seem like it matters at all. if i was over paranoid and thought locktight would fail, i could drill a small hole through the nut and bolt and cotter pin it.

 

I would help you if you need help. The easiest IMO is the way Chris does it. Has worked great on the 4 sets I have done.

 

x2

 

You could easily grab a can of undercoat or some rust inhibiting paint and give it a spray after you have bent it back, you can't see where you have to bend the sheet metal unless you get right in there and take off the rubber mud guard thing. I don't really think lock-tight would be needed on this item. There was none from the factory...