Mid Travel BS 2.0

I'm not bashing the idea, I think it's got a good meaning behind it. But, I'm just pointing out some flaws you might want to take into consideration.

Now the thing with not going into boost, is that if you're in deep enough water to need a snorkel, you're more than likely going to be in 4L which is going to bump up your rpms. Cool, no problem right? Except the supercharger builds boost with the higher rpms you go. You hit 2k, and I'm sure you've got at least 2-3lbs of boost pumping into that motor, and that's on the low side of my guesstimate. Which could cause problems if it's choking down and not getting that air. Just be rich for a bit, nothing too crazy I'm sure.

Best bet before going through with all of this would to call Arb because I'm sure they've flow tested them to chec the cfm.

 

Cause itd still pull dirty air. But thats not the reason he wants one either.

Wouldnt you want it to fail closed? That way youre using the snorkel in case you happen to go in water?

You can be in higher rpms and not be in boost. Theres a bleed off valve (wastegaste-esque) for that.

 

Once again we switched the topic from MT

 

Not entitely true, you can still go into high rpms and not build boost. I've found its more based on throttle position. When my clutch started slipping everytime I boosted I learned really quick how much throttle I could use and not go in to boost. Also remember I've got a 6 speed so I can control RPMs alot better than autos. But yea, like you said, worst case is I run rich during the crossing before I can swap back over. I won't be tuning super close to lean either since I dont want to burn up an engine. I'm probably going to be building my own snorkel since with all that BS smog shit I'm gonna have to get creative with my piping arrangements and still try to maintain the least amount of bends

 

I thought about having the solenoid fail closed, but a) I dont really plan fording and rivers lol, so at most jist big puddles and the occasional stream lol, and B, if I'm on a trail or on the road and it fails, I dont want to be stuck pulling air through just the snorkel if I'm tuned for both, you know?

 

If your in deep enough water that you NEED a snorkel there's a ton of other stuff needing to be water proofed or relocated. Snorkel is for dust and the mall

Anyways enough cfm measurments who's got the tape measure, let's measure travel next ! Lol

 

Ahh. I'm not the most knowledgable on SC's, I used to have a big turbo WRX so that's where I obtained my limited tuning knowledge.

But if that's the case and you can keep it out of boost when switched to the snorkel, I see no problem with going through with it. Worst comes to worst, the valve sticks open. In that case, keep a piece of pipe that would be interchangeable with the piece containing the valve so you can pull it out and replace it with a straight through pipe to either the CAI or snorkel if need be.

 

I'd go with reservoirs for the rear or move up to 2.5s if anything. Not really necessary though.

 

I agree they arent necessary for the most part, but they dont hurt any.

Im going 2.5s with resi f/r. I cooked my stock shocks on the last trip

 

I prefer to use the bottom one when measuring.... Everything

 

Sounds like a good setup. What specs are you getting the rears built to?

 

^^This.

Good luck on the Ypipe build though, its a cool idea.

 

The rear is Cb non resi 2.0 made to work with Dakar. Icon refused to state exact compressed and extended lengths. Maria at Headstron told me 15.9" x 26.5"-- which should be an excellent product at a great price.

Contemplating if i actually need rear resi too, which would add appx $200.00 or so.

Have done lots with stock trd OR suspension- just need more lift and dont like the marshmellow feeling of stock.

 

I've run close to that set up. Non resi ext c/o, icon uca, but I had the 2.0 resi rears. Plus dakars. I liked it. I never noticed the shock fade from temps or anything. But most my off roading is lower speed and lower shock speeds so it's not working super hard. You'll like it and be fine unless you plan on mobbing through the bumps.

I've since upgraded the fronts to resi with the cdc. I don't notice any difference when set on the 4 (same performance as non cdc). Same I haven't noticed any real difference between the non resi and resi. But I do like the cdc to be able to change up how it feels on the road. Windy mountain roads I can crank it to 9 and help with body roll. Then back it to softer for the forest service roads, or even lower.

 

Nice! Didyou stick with 650# coils? How much threads do have showing- and what size tire? Please advise, thanks!

 

subbed... I like the info!

 

That's bizzar, you can get extended/compressed lengths about 30 seconds after you open the box...

Sounds like a good set up.

 

This is such a fuckin douche comment. So you bring up a topic in a thread that has nothing to do with what you're talking about then tell everyone that unless they agree with your opinion to shut the fuck up? You don't wanna get it right, you just wanna be right. To this point in yalls conversation, you have been the only one to show any kind of butt hurt and immaturity while everyone else seems to be having an intelligent, OPINION BASED adult conversation.