What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

The more important thing than what brand coil over or adjustable v non is spring rate. Since you have a fixed amount of travel you need to research and find what size spring will work for the weight of your truck. A longer softer spring will be better for travel than a shorter stiffer spring.

You probably couldn't tell the difference between a set of OME with a 550# spring and icons with the same from the driver seat.

 

Priceless

 

Probably my fault, as I have been sending all the stupid questions to the forum, to maybe incite researching....


my bad dawg.

 

Actually Valving is by far more important then the coils.

You would definitely be able to tell the difference between an icon coil over and ome. Especially because icons are digressively valved.

 

New pic and I finally replaced my muffler. Followed in toendangers footsteps.

 

Put my All-Pro tube bumper on over the weekend.




and would love to get rid of my old one, free of charge if someone would like it. It's Imperial Jade Mica and in very good shape. Free if you pick it up and promise to use it. I'm back and forth between Brooklyn, NY and North Jersey.

Here it is on the truck:



-Ben

 

Depends on what your using it for. Rock crawling your not exactly cycling the suspension quickly, all shocks your will find in the Tacoma market will work adequately. I don't really go above 10mph when wheeling and my suspension doesn't cycle like higher speed guys. For people who wheel at speeds of over ten mph I can see what your saying. But a typical coil over not counting (air shocks and ORI types) the spring is what supports the vehicle. When I think about performance it's all about how much of that suspension travel I can use. You could have shocks with magic dampening abilities and 820# coils you still won't flex.

 

I'm sorry rayray.. that's my fault

 

Wished I lived closer, I'd use it for sure.

 

Did you do a diff drop and new ucas? What ucas did you get if so?

 

dude valving makes a huge difference. Even on just the street. And especially on the high way. For crawling, you'll notice it too.

For instance, lets say, you have 5100s. Like i did. And you use them and use them and use them. The leak some oil out. Well now when you come down off that rock ledge, instead of the shock slowing the speed of your truck crashing into the ground, it lets it smack the rocks and you end up abusing the the shit out of your skids. Which we all know is such a joy to put on crooked skids haha

Valving is key. THe only thing a coil does really is set the ride height.

Yes, if a coil is too stiff, like a stock truck running the Eibach on 5100s, they aren't gonna flex for shit on slow stuff either. But thats because that person was a moron and got too heavy of a coil.

But the difference between the 882/883 is laughable. Its 40lbs....


40.

thats it.

If you changed from an OME shock, to anything else with the same coil and different valving. It'll ride drastically different.

The key is finding the happy place of balance on coils to fit your rig. As well as valving.

Which is another reason why 5100/OME just isn't worth it in the long run..

but whatever. Im done talking about this topic. Been hammered to death on here and no matter what the people say who have had both, people are still gonna run 5100s and OME. Because they are more affordable in the short term. And in general. Work for most people just fine.

They just don't know what they are missing though..

 

If you still have the bumper, I'll take it.

 

The OMEs are designed for our trucks and work well. While I'm sure icons may ride better, I have never had an issue with the ride on mine. I'm not willing to deal with the headache. Like I said I bought a pair of 4 year old SAW 2.0s a few years back and it was a waste of money. I wish I did my research on how stuff like that lasts on this sandbar. They don't hold up to the environment well. Mine weren't that old and they needed tubes and shafts and a top plate( which sway away discontinued.) So I purchased basically a $250 potatoe gun with shrader valves. Chances are if you abuse them you will need new seals, fluid and a charge at least every few years.

Road salt, ocean air and mud ect will do them in. I have never seen a pair last around here that didn't need a full rebuild after 4-5 years( shafts, tubes, seals, springs, Heims) the shafts get pitted the tubes corrode and your spending $500 bucks or more to repair them. Icon had the (corrosion resistant ones). Maybe there are other New Englanders who have had good luck in the long run though who knows, I'm just not willing to give them a shot anymore.

 

For anyone who is interested though...
https://hartford.craigslist.org/pts/5380810326.html

 

Still have it. Where are ya? Let's make it happen.

 

For me, the rebuildable factor just isn't worth the extra maintenance considering salt, rust, and and pitting in the winter. Plus you need to either rebuild them that day, use a second vehicle to get around, or need to buy another set of front suspension. Or just buy OME, run them for 4 or 5 years, and swap in a new pair once they are used up.

I had Icons and quickly got rid of them for OME883s. Is the ride different? Yea. Is it bad? Nope.

 

I'm in no way for or against any of the coil overs you all are talking about BUT.
You said you bought a 4 year old set, then how can you bash them? And now you have them up for sell and you said the parts to rebuild them are discontinued?

 

I vote ads. I've only heard good things about them and it seems the coating is superior for rust etc. I might just sell my icons after I rebuild them and go ads

 

Yeah that too! The coating that helps prevent rust and corrosion!

 

How wide are your tires??