Still a rough ride with 2.5s? Does tire load range affect that much?

I've done a lot of reading which lead to progressive/digressive shock explanations for "smaller" bumps vs. "larger" bumps and which shock set feels a certain way. Bare with me as I try to explain my issue.

My vehicle - dcsb, 265/70/r17 load E, Allpro A-arms, Fox 2.5" front (purchased from AP), 2.0" rears, Allpro 3-leaf AAL, full plate bumper, sliders. Coilovers untouched and installed with factory settings.
- My first impressions were, "eh, I guess its a nicer ride?" I wasn't blown away considering the coin drop. Feels fairly stiff, then bouncey on the trail in 4L.

Buddy 1 vehicle - same set up, 285s load D tires. Rides smoother. At least NOTICEABLE to great.

Buddy 2 vehicle - 4runner, Icon stage 3 (essentially same set up, but "digressive"), 285s D load. No bumper. Has sliders. VERY plush ride that we're both questioning there has to be something wrong with my set up.

Now during all that searching everyone talks about "the little bumps" vs. "big bumps". Am I wrong to assume that normal city driving and freeway should ALL feel the same because realistically those city bumps shouldn't, so to speak, actuate the purpose of the shocks? It seems to me only on a trail should these shocks feel different. Yet off the driveway his feels worlds different.

Or, could the tire load range make that much of a difference in a smooth ride?

 

Load range E tires ride rough. And they are hard. I can't commit on your lift. I have no knowledge of it.

 

I have similar setup and I had 275/70r17 load E and they were really rough. I now have a larger size tire, 34x10.5r17 load D and the ride is soooo much nicer. Ideally, you'd want load C rated tires and the difference will be night and day. Hope this helps

 

Try adjusting your preload

 

Reducing preload could help. You have a pretty heavy rig with the cap, awning, tent, bumper, etc. If those are the coils for a stock weight truck you may consider calling some suspension pros (paging @Downsouth Motorsports ) and asking what the right spring rate is for you. Ideally you achieve the amount of lift you want without too much preload.

 

I was gonna comment on the rear but he said 2.5 so I figure he's only concerned with the front. Im thinking the cap and RTT is too much for a AAL

 

Tires make a difference but the right suspension makes for a comfortable ride. I went from 5100's to OME and then finally to King adjustables. Valving and spring weight make anything from a stiff ride to plush with the same tires.

 

It's a slow build. But the next purchase is dakars with overload for the rear. The AAL was part of the AP kit. On longer camping trips I bring a DRZ on the back too, plenty of weight on the rear. Too much on the list and enough in the wallet I actually had air bags before all of this but I kept to groomed fire roads at that point.

These tires have probably another 20k left in them, I look into some new tires.

 

One obvious question: what PSI are you running? When you air the tires down is it still a super-roughy ride? Borrow the wheels/tires from buddy 1 or 2 and try them on your rig to see if you have an "aha" moment.

oh - and nice truck setup.

 

And is it just me or can you actually see cupping on those rear tires in that picture?

 

Thanks. Not a bad idea on the tire switcher-oo. But yes, I believe the stock springs on the Fox are 600lbs and 700s are suggested. It would probably be a better idea to deal with the issues till I need new tires, then see DSM for valving and springs, yeah? Otherwise I'd have to get them re-valved again.

 

Gotcha, I had the Icon AAL and with jus the RTT and a loaded bed it was too much weight. Adjust your preload, Unless your preload is close to 0 I bet you that will make for a better ride

 

Yes. Not terrible but did consider it as a rough ride issue. But the ride it self hasn't changed much. Wheels have sense been rebalanced and everything aligned.

 

Unless he has a progressive rate spring (doubtful), less preload isnt going to change the ride quality.

 

My icon 2.5s at 2.5" lift ride like stock on the road with stock wheels and tires. With e rated cooper st Maxx, not as much. Tire pressure plays a huge factor, as do stiff sidewalls. Play with tire pressure a bit.

 

As a way of supplementing my income (to pay for my 4wd addiction) I put lift kits/aftermarket parts on other peoples trucks (in my garage) A couple things I've learned;

I've seen people use IDENTICAL parts on different trucks with mixed results. Not ALWAYS the case, but it happens.

More importantly, I ALWAYS advise people who are raising a truck (or just making significant changes in suspension) to do the lift FIRST, run the STOCK/existing tires and wheels for a few days and make note of any suspension issues, THEN swap tires/wheels. Keep a "baseline" with stock tires to evaluate the suspension, THEN change tires......That way you have a MUCH better handle on which one is causing issues. Saves a LOT of time chasing gremlins if you know specifically WHERE the gremlin is hiding.....

And, uh....Heavier tires, stiffer tires effect ride and handling FAR more than most people recognize.

 

I run e-rated tires. It's like Flintstones' wheels. Dropping air pressure helps. Even so, I like a tough tire, as I ride a lot of rocky trails here.

 

Not exactly a conclusive scientific study but:
I ditched my load range E 245 tires last week for P265s and I am amazed at the difference.
It now rides like a Cadillac compared to before and that is eith the addition of a spacer lift.

 

Tires make a noticeable difference in ride even on the street. I went from P-metric Hankook ATm to load range C Duratracs and got a rougher ride. I lowered tire pressure from 35/34 to 32/31 and it made a small improvement.

Rubber bushings, coil isolator pads, shocks, and tires all have their unique roles in ride quality over different frequencies. Coilovers tend to omit the first two elements, so you can end up with a rougher ride over the low amplitude, high frequency disturbances (i.e. most stuff encountered on pavement).

 

Like others have said it's the valving on the shocks, I had my icon 2.5s rebuilt because I bought them used, they asked if I waneed to change the valving I said no because I had no idea how they rode, after a few months with them on yes off the shelf valving is stiffer than stock on the street. It doesn't really bother me because of the things it allows me to do off the pavement, I also only have a 10 min drive to work. I will say this c and D rated tires won't stand up in the long run if you happen to be in a rocky shale laced area, time and time again I've seen people with lesser tires slash them over and over. What you really need to ask yourself is; is a slightly stiffer ride ok vs shredding tires ?

I run 315/75R16 ko2 E's at 35 psi on road, 20ish on forest roads 10-15 on trails depending on conditions