MOOG Tie-Rod Ends vs OEM

hey it's greaseable...cut boot in half so it is shorter, pile grease on every oil change

 

@Benson X how long did the driver's side last? In your picture it looks ok. Could it have been a defective boot on the passenger side?

 

I have not priced out OEM, but I was under the impression they were costly. If they're not then OEM will do just fine for me!

I'll check price tomorrow and post back...

 

the greaseable thing makes total sense. it's too bad that the boot is "wrong". i can't speak for the US guys (rock auto has great prices), but here, the OEM rod ends were barely above parts-store prices.

 

Late reply, but the drivers side and the pass. side replacement is holding up fine. Hoping it was just a bad boot, but time will tell.

The Moogs were an impulse buy, with the mindset of "greasable must be better, right?"

 

I'm probably at 15k on mine with no issue. I like the grease-able feature.

What they look like all fat and ballooned after installing Un-greased and adding grease & servicing at 5k oil changes(3 times now).

 

Thanks for the update! That's exactly why I ordered the Moogs after my OEM one failed.

Awesome, those look good. Sounds like greasing them after the install is the way to go.

 

I checked this morning.

OEM inner tie rod $135.82 USD
OEM outter tie rod $44.33 USD

After seeing the last report in this thread from @ndcmack , maybe I'll do the moog afterall...

 

Same here. I saw the OEM outers on Amazon for $55, which is what I got both of my Moog ones for.

 

You guys are lucky south of the border with what aftermarket parts cost. $40.00 CAD for each OEM outer rod end from my local dealer (only $5.00 each more than aftermarket at the local parts store). Seeing the prices listed on rockauto kills me, but now with our crappy dollar, it isn't worth dealing across the border (& paying for shipping / duty).
Seeing the pics that ndcmack posted, the greaseable Moog parts look promising for sure. That said, my OEM rod ends lasted for a lot of miles,.. so fingers crossed that the new ones do too.

 

I'm guessing mine got jacked up during my last alignment (if that can even happen...I think they use them to adjust toe), so ones leaking and I think causing my front end knocking noise.

 

My oem tie rods were all seized up. I found this out when I bent a spindle on a trail and tried to adjust toe to limp it home.
Both sides needed a torch to separate. I got some Moogs from Rock auto for ~$100 for both sides, inner and outer. I installed them and haven't looked at them since.
This post made me run outside to look at them .

I guess I'll put the grease gun to them when I get home and see what happens.

 

I bought mevotech's for my old 4runner, and i would not install them. the quality was so terrible i threw them out. Taper was way off, no castle nut / safety wire, etc. Shoddy.

 

That sucks to hear. There are so few aftermarket options for us... I was going to try the Mevotech lower ball joint for a factory LCA. I know Kev @nj636 has successfully used their bushings in facory LCA's...

 

I noticed that about the Mevotech ones as well. Just a lock nut, no castle nut and cotter pin.

 

The only part that i bought from mevotech that i used were LCA bushings. TRE's are scrap worthy and i wouldn't trust them with my life on balljoints. Bushings are fine, and i'll swap in energy rubbers if they wear out prematurely.

 

Thanks for your comment.

I'm going to use the Moog LJB when I rebuild my LCA's quite soon. I wish Toyota would sell the ball joints separate from the arms. Not too long ago, in this forum, someone who knows what they were talking about described the Toyota OEM upper ball joint as a high quality joint, where as the Moog version (a copy) works, but no where near the quality of Toyota OEM.

 

Just put some grease in them. Boots poofed up a bit. Didn't see any leaks.
They've only been on since September so I guess time will tell.

 

Do you grease them like the drive shaft? Pump till it pushes the old grease out and then wipe it clean?

 

Did you guys swap yours out without getting it the truck re-aligned? Seems like the "count the rotations" method is common, but there are mixed opinions on how necessary the alignment is.