What tint % did you go with?

The factory clear glass is around 70/75%

Whatever film you put on there expect 8-12% darker than the tint level.

Ie: 35% is going to give you approx 25% vlt.

This is a reference because tint die is not exact on film, there is a tolerance. Tint from different rolls can give you different vlt's even with the same manufacturer and tint type.

 

Where did i say the factory glass is 50%?

 

You said 20% will be more like 10%. Actually if you are talk film tint, the passive light is less than the %, so the factory clear glass must be less, darker, than 50%, based on your writing.

10/20 is 50%.

 

Please use math. 35/25 is not an 8 to 12 percent difference

 

I have 35% on the fronts and 15% on back and rear. I think even in Hawaii's sun that is sufficient

 

Please learn what you are talking about before making comments and spewing mis information. 8-12% lower in total light transmission. We're not doing simple math here and saying 10% of something.

Read the whole post, since you probably work better with pictures let me help you out.



35% LLumar Tint on 2014 Toyota 4runner. 24% TRUE tlt.

 

Conventions usually do not add and subtract percentages. Percentages are usually multiplied, hence the name, per 100

 

I left what the dealer put on. 35/20 It's plenty dark enough. I have 20 on the Miata and my past vehicles....I did not ask for or pay for the tint. So I am leaving well enough alone.

 

20% tint means 20% of the light is allowed in. If you add tint to preexisting tint, then obviously it'll end up a lower number (darker) than what percentage tint you're applying to the windows. What I said is below. I'd say that's accurate. 10% is slightly darker than 20%. The whole point was to remember that you're applying tint to pre-existing factory tint.

"Don't forget that your car already comes with tint on the front door window. All cars do. So when you put 20% tint on, it'll be more like 10% when it's all said and done. I went with 37% tint on the front doors and it matched the rear factory tint perfect. My two pennies..."

 

Usually, 10% rated tint only blocks around 12-14% of visible light

 

Nope. 10% tint means that only 10% of the light gets thru the window. Means 90% of the light is blocked. I measure them in my line of work. That's also how the tint laws are written.

 

I'm not sure what this has to do with anything (but its wrong none the less), the point is that when you add whatever % tint you want to your windows expect your true light transmission to be less than the film you put on.

Let's don't over complicate this, The factory tint will decrease your light transmission by approximately 10 percentage points of your film.

 

3M Color Stable, the most widely used film tint on the market
Product Visible Light Transmitted

Color Stable 5 8%
Color Stable 20 16%
Color Stable 35 38%
Color Stable 50 51%

 

You are making this to easy....you proved yourself wrong. Visible light transmitted means that is the light that the tint allows to go through. Not what it blocks.

Let me google that for you:

Visible Light Transmittance (VT) The point of windows is to let light pass through. The percentage of visible light that passes through a window or other glazing unit is called the Visible Light Transmittance (T vis or VLT).

If VLT is 8% it blocks 92% of light.
If VLT is 16% it blocks 84% of light.


I'd just stop if I were you....you clearly are speaking on a subject you do not know about.

 

OK, I said it wrong. The ratings tint comes with are not the Visible Light Transmission that is allowed.

I'm saying that these numbers never match, so we cannot do math with them in the ways that most of us/you are doing

You know what, I thought you would be able to infer that I was speaking about the difference in the numbers when I misspoke and said 'light that is blocked'. You tried to catch me in language instead of math. I was speaking to the math

 

I went with 15% all the way around, 40% on the entire windshield with a 5% strip at the top.

 

5% front and rear

 

Just trust me on this....that is why i have in every post said approximately. The plant that makes window tint is 25 minutes from my location and i am good friends with a tint professional that used to work in that same factory. Every batch of film has a lot number, which if you ever get tint installed and a warranty card the lot number is on that card. The die for the film is not exact, some lots of 35% film give a reading of 33% vlt...the next lot may give a 36%. The die they use is not constant and there is a tolerance built in, this will vary based on manufacturer. Also i would argue that while 3m may be the most "widely" used film on the market it is not the most popular because it is extremely expensive. Dealers and high end shops will use it to charge 3-500 dollar tint jobs. The majority will use suntek or llumar for the most common 150-200 tint jobs. Suntek is on the lower end but guarantee's against fading, LLumar is excellent film.

 

20% on front and I left the rear alone

 

say's the guy arguing about adding and subtracting percentage's