MARYLAND TACOMAS

the biggest difference is that the M8000 and the Zeon 8 have contactors. the VR has a standard solenoid.

a solenoid will work just fine, but a contactor builds in an extra level of protection to the winch. essentially, solenoids and contactors are both forms of electromagnetic switches (a contactor is a type of solenoid), used to trigger/conduct a heavy electrical load via the firing of a low amperage signal (the winch remote fires the solenoid, which activates power to the winch motor).

a solenoid works exactly like the 35 amp relay you use to turn on your off road lights, or other accessories. a contactor physically does the same thing, but also heats up and cools off at the same rate as the winch motor. if the winch motor starts to overheat, so will the contactor, which will result in it cutting power to the winch. only when the motor (and contactor) cool to a certain point, will the winch start to operate again. contactors in general, are also typically serviceable. granted, a winch solenoid is relatively inexpensive, so it may not be worth the hassle to service a contactor.

either way, crack open the solenoid/contactor when you get the winch, put some extra dielectric grease on the contact points, and seal the thing up with silicone.

 

Not a winch expert either but I've been reading up on the different model Warn offers and if I remember correctly one line of Warn winches is made in china.

 

That wouldn't surprise me if it was the VR its their entry level one.

 

Hey, @Mobtown, Are you working on a hi-lift mount for the bed rails with a locking option built in?

 

Based on this information along I'll be skipping the VR and spending the little bit extra on one of the other two. I like that the contactor heats up at the same time for the simple fact of it killing the power hopefully before frying the motor. I'm new to winching and can see this as an added safety for my stupidity.

 

Second this... The hardware is nice but I like mounting plates.

 

Well, just called Toyota 800-331-4331, they said my taco with differential "C3" label on diff, and A04A/A750F number on the door sticker; has an Auto Limited Slip Differential.

 

Do what does this mean?

 

Yes, I was thinking something that mounts to the bed track rails, clam shells over the jack, maybe even engages into one of the holes, but has a lock loop which allows for a heavy pad lock to be hooked in. Closed cell foam could be used to prevent rattling (as much as possible with these things).

 

I guess it means that a "C3 or A04A" differential is not an open dif, but an ALSD.

 

Me and you are on the same page I was thinking two small narrow plates with steel pegs that go through the holes on the jack that can have a locking plate that can be locked with a hefty master lock or something that uses tslot nuts to attach to the rail that wont be able to be reached with the top mounting plate in place.

 

Exactly. It would be way easier than the turn handle things and far more secure. So, I'm wondering why it's not done yet.

 

Because I don't know how to weld and hi lift would rather you buy another jack if your first one is stolen lol

 

HAHA! I'm learning to weld, but so far everything I've made pretty much looks like an accident just happened. This would need a little (a LOT) more finesse than I have. My Hi-lift is waiting patiently in the garage.

 

Auto LSD is an open diff which uses the ABS to simulated a real LSD. The brakes are applied to the spinning wheel to transfer power to the other wheel. Works pretty well on my truck.

 

Ha-ha mine too I need to put it on my truck though if I got a flat right now I'd be waiting for road side to come jack the truck up lol

 

@Mobtown what are you doing Saturday? Lol want to mock one up?

 

Thank you sir.

 

Basically, its an open diff, with brake simulated limited slip. Better than open, but still not great. Imo

 

So can it be changed? And what's the benefits of changing it