Anyone used 6.5" subwoofers in rear access doors?

I really want to keep the back useful and not run a box. I also would like more bass. It doesn't have to be earth shattering, just nice clean bass. My only thought is running a 6.5" sub in each rear door and also installing sound deadening material. Has anyone tried this before? If so, how does it sound? I have searched and I've seen some really custom work but I want the most plug and play setup I can get. Currently have a Jensen Nav but everything else is stock.

 

yes i believe there are quite a few people that buy 6.5" component speakers to put in their doors.

You will need to install an amp also . head units alone do not push enough power to get good sound out of after market speakers

 

Yes I was planning on running an amp. Will component speakers push the bass a subwoofer would?

 

you are not going to get alot of bass from a 6.5" speaker. You will notice that they have more bass and crisper sound but mostly mids and highs will come out of the speaker set.

I would say the smallest sub that will get you "bass" would be an 8" sub. People often run 2 or more 8" subs.

 

Thanks for the info. I may look into one of those under seat sub boxes.

 

http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/products/sundown-audio-x-6-5-300w-x-series.html

There is also a tang band 6.5 that can be used. For the price of the sundown I personally would get a 10 or 12.

The right 6.5 subwoofer...keyword being subwoofer...Will get you some hefty bass though don't expect to be shaking your whole truck with the windows up and less than two in a standard sealed/ported enclosure.

Otherwise there's no reason a 6.5 subwoofer won't get you bass output beyond a 6.5 full range/component speaker.

 

you are joking right?

they would be built to do totally different things. the component set is for midrange and maybe midbass in a properly massaged door. the TB 6.5 subwoofer would be terrible in the upper midrange as they are usually almost 10db down by the common crossover point [2.5kHz-3.5kHz].

these are motors built for certain things. they can dip into each others territory but will not excel beyond their means.

 

The OP's original question and train of thought was to use a 6.5 subwoofer in the rear doors for more bass without going to a big box or otherwise.

Another poster stated:

My post was to add insight to the fact that a 6.5 speaker is different from a 6.5 subwoofer. I even stated that the keyword was subwoofer. In direct relation to my statement regarding subwoofers, even 6.5 subwoofers...yes

 

I have been wanting to find a buyer to do 2 8(subwoofers) sealed 1 in each rear door but so far no one locally has given me the chance

 

I think 8s are perfect for the access cab rear doors. That's going to be a fun project for you when you finally get to it. There's a lot of space to be had for a single 8 in the access rear doors.

 

Oh man that would be a great fun DIY project.. Without having been in the access cab rear doors yet, I imagine there are a couple challenges.. Biggest with any low-freq enclosure is flexing. You gotta make that door solid as a damn rock on the outside panel and inside as well. Serious deadening. Serious baffle work. And serious CCF and MLV and work to deaden that door card. But man that could be a killer fun little project. DIY that bad boy!

 

Wouldn't be as complex as your starting, if you do it right. and planned right, You won't need any CCF or MLV, just a good solid door card/containment for the sub with deadener on it to remove any vibration. Id probably also line the door with 2 layers of foam underlay to prevent any contact vibration on the metal panel once treated with deadener. But space is also limited so you cant make that area to bulky

 

That's good to know and quite interesting for possible goodies there.. Wonder how much depth is available from baffle to outer skin.

A guy could possibly do a sub between the seats as I'm planning, then maybe JL ZR 8" midbass in those spots, then some reasonable mids in doors up front.. So the JR's would satisfy say 50hz or so up to maybe 100hz or wherever you cut them off before they start to pull the sound-stage away from up-front.

Also here's a driver to throw at you guys for consideration.. Stereo Integrity TM65 mid-bass.. Maybe not sub-less worthy, but certainly a fairly well respected mid-bass package in a 6.5 frame.

 

Yeah, I'd probably do a substrate of the ccf/mlv anyway though, but I'm an overkill kinda guy with that. I imagine the work on the actual metal would be the biggest deal though for those kind of frequencies in that door.

Let me ask you this though.. I'm hoping for this.. How well sealed is that door?
Considering it's not a conventional door with a rolling window, I'm hoping it's pretty much just a metal enclosure.

 

Good call, he SI Tm65 is a nice driver, same with their sub the Mag iv. Lets just say you will see something from them in the very near future in my sig

 

You wouldn't mount the 8 in the door, you'd build a sealed enclosure as part of the door card. You only need a random shape with enough airspace and mounting depth. Id personally over the metal door head to toe sealing it off 100% with deadener or what ever materials ud want to use

 

Hmm.. Another idea might be silly but just for thought.. Fiberglassing and inclosed sealed space INSIDE the door, leading up to a baffle in that spot, utilizing the volume inside the door. I've seen it done long ago in an OEM sub location in a Forester and it turned out awesome. Would kick the skill level up quite a bit and become a rather semi-permanent addition to the door (unseen of course) but could be significant.

Too bad Jacob hasn't done an SD-3 shallow "SQ" sub in 8" yet. Just checked. I had the SD-3 10 and it was silly silly good in a small sealed box.

 

yeah, we follow closely with SD