A fatkid build

Haha Brian, you're a nerd!

 

I would say we are all truck nerds . . .

 

Says the guys with a 1st Gen and a comfy Tundra.

 

Don't be hating cuz u ain't me

 

I'm just proud of you for fixing the your/you're before anyone noticed Jace.

Well, before almost anyone noticed....

Someday, when you grow up, you might just become a nerd yourself.

 

No hate. I haz comfy 2nd Gen and comfy 4th gen runner.

 

Getting EAF in here.

 

Nice! I have an #EAF sticker for you too now!

 

Like.
So this kit retains the stock air box in the stock location I assume?
And is capable of being sealed against water?

 

Yes, I use RTV around the junctions leading to the air box, seal the air box floor drain holes. The electrical I don't typically touch other then secondary ignition stuff. Toyota uses really good weather/water resistant electrical connectors.

 

I don't know if I've seen a snorkel that didn't travel forward on the fender a bit.

What's the difference? Why aren't they all like this or all like the others that run along the fender?

 

^^my guess is there is space at the back of the fender to make the turn into the body without significantly restricting airflow. Also that body line is significant in the fender they probably did not want to have to mold something to fit that gap.

Just a thought though.

 

a

So the 3.4l stock intake ends almost directly above the centerline of the hub. So the included hose from the end of the snorkel to the beginning of the stock intake is only about 6" in length. It works out really well for clearance.

I just couldn't bring myself to install that China built Snorkel for the 167 hilux. The snorkel inlet is the same as ARB but everything else from the top down is smaller, all the way down to the choke point at the bottom of the snorkel. It is smaller than the factory inlet so that explains why it sucks the hose shut. The hose does not feel as stiff as the ARB hose though, so I could be wrong, why chance it though.

 

I have some updates to the green machine. The stock replacement Bilstine 5100 lift kit blows. They are just off in dampening for a truck that is driven over any rough surface. If you have extra load from accessories, even worse. I was not pleased on or off road driving this truck.

I have a solution, the Bilstine lift was temporary to just get the build off the ground. Knowing I wanted to eventually have a nice quality "mid travel" truck I ordered some parts.

I went with ADS extended travel replacement coil-overs. I have seen good reviews from the stock replacement crowd and also a friend who runs a higher end version in a KOH rig. Quality high points list out as great machining, great customer service, race quality parts in the stock replacement shocks. I coupled them with a set of SPC/Light Racing upper arms. I wanted the sealed ball joint for the Colorado winters and the ability to better adjust my alignment.

The install was really simple. It helps that I had the tools needed for the job and the upper bolts were not rusted in place. The ball joint press made the steering knuckle slug an easier job then I was prepared for.

Thanks to the upper arms and ADS for having the correct coil height, the final assembly was a breeze. I didn't have to adjust the coils at all. Alignment came out rear perfect, I ran higher caster numbers on purpose, closer to what a 3rd generation 4runner runs. Tracking is near perfect at 75mph and the ride difference is hard to believe. I need to match the rear to the front soon.

I need to up my off road light game. I'll be working through an install of these in the next couple days.

 

How's your upper ball joints come out? I find its hot or miss... either they are a royal pita or they pop right out. I like the secone gen ubjs better for that reason....
How'd u align yours?

 

The puller set I have made quick work of the upper ball joints. They were very stuck, I needed to hit the knuckle with a hammer to get them to pop. Easy enough job though.

For alignment I went with 0° camber and 2.30° left caster and 2.55° right. The Light racing arms I really only needed for camber. I might pull 1° of caster out of the arms (they have a built in 2° correction) and re-align to see what happens. Where it sits my cams are not far off from center now though. I can go 1/4 mile before it drifts out to the right of the lane, not too bad.

 

Funny guy...

 

I'd recommend trying closer to 3* of caster. I believe I got bobs north of 3. They drive so well with lots of caster. Then kick the camber out. Stay in the green but pretty negative. Mine is about -.2 iirc. In the dirt it causes the tires to really lean and bite hard when turning.