How much Armor Do I need? Skids?

Do the 2nd gen skid plates fit on the 3rd gen?
Edit: I should have looked at this before I went hardcore mudding. My bottom rubbed on a pipe I drove over not sure if it was bad. It was like a 12" in diameter pipeline... :/

 

Can anyone tell me if the Pelfreybilt skid plate will work with his aluminum bumper? I want the plate and I plan to get his bumper eventually, just trying to ensure the parts play well together.

 

This is an intriguing discussion. I'm looking into pros vs cons for aluminum vs steal. Looking strictly at RCI, full skid protection (minus sliders) weights 147lbs and costs $1246.45 delivered (TN). Aluminum is 80lbs and costs $1581.45 delivered (TN). Aluminum will never rust but if you keep up maintenance on steal, rust shouldn't be an issue either. Highly doubt I'll do any super serious off-roading so strength isn't a huge issue for me either. Is $335 worth the 67lbs of weight savings?

 

Just in rough numbers, $335 buys 167.5 gallons of gas @ $2/per gallon. 167.5 gallons x 14 mpg = 2345 miles. 67 pounds is probably not going to impact mpg substantially.

So, steel = 2345 miles + more strength - some increased maintenance.
Aluminum = Less maintenance - 2345 miles - some strength.

 

Josh from RCI has suggested to me that getting steel on the important bits where there will be more contact (like front skid) and getting the rest aluminum is a great way to go. If you powder coat or paint, you won't see the difference.

 

Does anyone know what the impact on MPG is without a lift? I'll probably end up getting a 3 inch lift with better tires but still a C rating. Shit its a 4x4 truck with a lift and tires I should probably start worrying about MPG... Just hoping for 15 in the city and 20 highway still.

EDIT: I am talking about having full skids

 

Weight also affects handling. I know 70lbs isn't much, but it's still 70lbs. At least it's down low.

 

You'll need the skid for the inch of clearance you lose when you stack on all that extra weight. But seriously, like someone else already said its probably not necessary unless you're doing a lot of heavy duty rock crawling. Watch where you drive, don't drive like an idiot off road, and you'll be fine. I had one fabbed up for the front of my 2003 Ranger 4x4 because the radiator hangs down so low on those things you could probably walk up and kick it to cause damage. I took that truck out and basically abused it offroad, never had any issues with it at all. I wouldn't waste the money personally. Run the OEM skid until is looks like a smashed beer can, then go get yourself an aftermarket one...

A lot of guys buy them for bragging rights and nothing more.

 

Gas tank skid is overkill for what the Op is doing, as the tank is already plastic, and well tucked up into the frame. Isn't it covered by a factory bash plate already?
Front skid, transmission skid, steel preferred - because steel offers stronger protection from gouging as well as slamming down onto an obstacle. Replacing the front bash plate with a proper skid plate also gives you more clearance.

 

But if I gain more clearance, it will just be that much harder to SKID on my skid plate!

 

I am not worried about the weight for fuel economy. I just don't want it too heavy to do oil changes.