Check Your U-Joints

Is greasing the zerks something the dealer could/should do during a routine maintenance check @ 6 months?

 

Less chance of that now

 

Those of you having trouble with the front zerk, unscrew the fitting from your hose and use your, a friend, a shop...grinder to remove a small amount of metal on the first inch or so making the diameter a bit smaller...worked for me!

 

Mine is at the dealer right now getting the ubolt fittings checked and also looking at a shifting issue I am having with the transmission. Also having the transmission issue associated with vibrations and shifting
checked. I have the issue when going from reverse to drive there is a hesitation and between the 1500 and 2500 rpm range the truck surges and shakes like it is trying to shift gears but doesnt know which one is correct. Hoping the transmission fluid is low, I told them i wanted it checked manually even if the diagnostics indicated it was OK.

 

As a matter of course, probably not.
The maintenance manual states every 5,000 under 'special conditions', every 15,000 for 'normal conditions'. Toyotacare does not cover 'special conditions'.

 

Wouldn't the fact that they missed it at the factory make it a "special condition"?

 

That's one way to look at it; the dealer missed it at PDI too.
The problem is convincing your dealer. I get a mixed bag. My dealer does 5,000 mile oil changes; they don't have to. They would also rather file a case than check my transmission fluid. You might have an obliging dealer.

Normal and special condition is defined in the Maintenance Manual.

 

I guess I'll ask - if you don't ask, you don't get!

 

I thought the dealer charges the manufacturer for maintainance works, if so they should check everything we ask right?

 

Thanks to the OP, I spent some quality time with my under my Tacoma yesterday. Of the 5 U-joints, one was bone dry, 11 pumps. the rest 5-7 pumps. Guess 2016 grease had not yet arrived at the plant.... so they sent a scavenger to Auto Zone

 

Did you find in here someplace that our 2wheel Tacoma's do not have these zerk fittings? I have been trying to find that out.

 

Only one way to find out.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/check-your-u-joints.409042/page-9#post-11532992

 

I've read through the entire thread and need some feedback - I purchased a grease gun + valvoline V985 synthetic grease (ngli2 + moly) and am unclear if this is recommended vs a non-moly. I'd appreciate any feedback that is based on a technical guide or spec as I am unclear. Thanks!

 

Toyota recommends lithium-complex without moly in stardard cardan univeral joints.
Toyota recommends lithium-complex with moly in double cardan universal joints.
2016s don't have double cardan joints.

Spicer on the other hand recommends their synthetic grease(calcium sulfonate), Chevron Ultra-Duty EP-2, or compatible lithium-based grease meeting N.L.G.I. Grade 2 specifications as well as ASTM D4950 LB specifications.

Your grease meets this spec.

My $.02...
I won't use moly because it is basically a metal.
It's generally agreed to be better in slide application, such as a slip joint.
Not so much in tight rolling application like needle bearings.
There are no standards for particle size or percentage.
The argument is the moly collects and prevents rolling, flat spotting the needles.
I have no idea why Toyota specs moly in double cardans. Double cardans generally run at higher angles, so that might have something to do with it.

 

splitbolt, thanks for the feedback and original posting. I used the non-moly you mentioned earlier on. I found that every zerk fitting needed about 5-7 pumps and now have tools on hand for future upkeep.

 

My rear three zerks took about 4-5 pumps each, but when I pulled the hose off some grease continued to come back out of the zerk. Is this normal or do I need to reapply?

 

Might have been to much, too fast...pressure not allowing the ball in check valve to seat.
Pressure subsides, and all is good.
As long as you are able to purge all 4 seals; no need to reapply.

 

First pass, a couple of mine did that. Initially, just put enough grease in to start purging. Then, put a few miles on and did a second pass and ensured all seals started to purge. One of the fittings now seals proper and the other one just leaked a bit. As noted, I think it's just a function of getting grease into them and then back pressure to close.