The Adventures of Ash and Baby Taco

i know this sounds stupid but im just gonna ask..

are you saying that you can't get the socket on with the joint on it? Have you tried just the socket first, then the joint? Sometimes you can make it work that way.

I know there are short fat sockets out there..idk if ACE will have them though. The ones ive used where Macs.

 

Yeah, I can't get the socket to fit. Once on the socket is on bolt i believe I can attach the joint to the socket and then hook into the impact. Basically attaching things in reverse.

 

I use non impact sockets with my impact all the time just wear some glasses in case it grenades

 

I've done the same, never had one break on me...yet. I wouldn't recommend it at all but sometimes that's all you have to work with

 

Glasses will be worn. I only need it for one bolt. A bastard of a bolt but it should hold up fine. Hopefully it doesn't strip the bolt .

 

I don't even own any impact sockets Though I have a 3/8" drive harbor freight impact so it's not setting any torque records. haha

 

Since I haven't posted any pictures I decided to grab one with my phone.

The two orange links in the chain line up with a mark on each sprocket. At the bottom of the engine is a yellow link that lines up with another mark. For those with the 2tr-fe, you can easily do this to check your timing. Use a cheap endoscope to check the yellow link at the bottom to avoid pulling the timing cover off. I haven't done that but seen videos of it being done on other vehicles.

The bolt on the black sprocket is the evil bastard holding me up. Should find something to make it work in a few and complete the job tomorrow.

Also, I will link the light I am using in the final write up. I purchased it for this second time around after fumbling with a different shop light. It hangs off the hood and makes things sooooo much easier.

 

Just looked in the manual- page EM-40 http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old.../06toyrm/06toypdf/06rmsrc/rm2006ta/008000.pdf

Hold the hexagonal lobe of the No. 2 camshaft with
an adjustable wrench.
NOTICE:
Be careful not to damage the camshaft oil
delivery pipe.
(d) Loosen the bolt.

Edit: link to the rest of the manual if you don't have it. http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old/files/05FSM/repair.html

 

Yeah, thats why I bought knock myself out when the wrench broke haha. I was holding holding the camshaft with one arm and pulling the pipe with the other. That put my in the perfect position to get whacked when it broke.

 

Ordered some nice swivel sockets to get to it. I am going to look locally some more but haven't had any luck so far. The job might be postponed until then.

 

Found some locally. Still no luck fitting it on. Going to try and find a 3/8 set since that should bring it down small enough.

 

I'm sure i'ts been brought up already but have you looked around for an angle impact? I'm not sure what kind of torque specs you can buy them with but I feel like you'd have to find a pneumatic one for the type of power you need to break it loose. If you could find one with the specs you need i'm sure it'd make short work of that bolt.

 

Have you tried Fastenal there in town? They usually had a decent selection of hand tools.

 

I forgot about fastenal, ill swing by in a bit and check it out. Josh the problem isnt the torque wrench, but getting a socket to fit with the extension to use it.

 

Okay i see. I was under the impresssion the socket would fit but you couldn't get the socket/extension/torque wrench all connected together to fit.

 

Cut a cheap socket down and got it to fit on the bolt. Couldn't attach anything to it. Going to try a wrench tomorrow and just watch my head if it breaks.

 

You're reminding me of what I just witnessed at the Subaru performance garage I go to locally. In order to break the four cam bolts it takes two guys (one to lock the gear and stand on the engine stand) and the other to use a massive breaker bar w/ a hex key to break it. I was there as they were doing this the other day and the bolt-breaker slipped after breaking it, the massive breaker bar swung around and almost got the bracer in the balls. We all gasped because we thought he got hit HARD but he lucked out.

Anyway, cam bolts are no joke. Good luck.

 

Lol, that's a confidence booster .

 

I am out of socket options which means the dewalt will be returned soon. I did some research on better tool brands for wrenches in hopes of finding something of better quality that could handle the torque. I came across a specialty snap-on tool for subarus that has a 6pt dual ended wrench (17mm and 19mm). This is built to endure the high torque required to remove/install the cam bolts on the subies. At 16'' long with quality steel, I should be able to put the cheater bar on and go to town and the 6pt design should protect the cam bolt from stripping. This is probably my last attempt . Unless you guys come up with something better than this.

 

I had this same issue when I did my HGs, the 1GR has the same setup on the cams, but way more clearance on the front. Are you using an adjustable on the cam? If so I recommend a 23mm open wrench instead, once you figure out holding the cam bolt, you need a SHIT ton of force as you have found out to break that bitch loose, and the adjustable will probably slip. I think it is actually a 24mm notch in the cam, but the 24mm was too loose for my liking, so I got a 23 and lightly tapped it on there and it held. But yeah, 2' cheaters on each end and pray. When it did break loose I thought the cam had sheared in half. Whats crazy is the retorque value is like less than 100 ft*lbs too I want to say.