96 5vz xcab 4x4 TACO TURBO BUILD

Well if I was going to spend all this money and time I think I would want it to produce power for the truck under semi-normal driving conditions, not just when I am gunning it.

 

Right...hmmm

 

You can do your own research but the turbo I had on my list was the size that Torspd recommended for the 3.4.

 

Yeah he recommended the same for me to a while back. I just want this to be under $3000 so it can remain competitive with the s/c. While the s/c makes less HP its a very good kit and is very complete right away, unlike turbocharging but if I can save say $300-400 dollars Turbo-ing is more worth it to me. Also does the smaller turbo have to be watercooled?

 

My list added up is $2454, this doesnt include the oil feed or return hardware and lines, or any vaccum lines, or a new header gasket from toyota. This price also includes an AEM wideband and intercooler pipes and connectors, both you didnt have.

 

Yeah i was missing some things...lol But im gonna use your list and see what I can save on. Also would using a glowshift be ok as well? Pardon my ignorance but what would the catch can be used for? #totalnewb

 

Idk. But since it is pretty important to have accurate readings from an afr, you know so you don't blow it up, I went with an AEM one in my list. It even has a fail safe.

 

Hmm yeah idk either...cause yuh know never done this before..but didnt OP use a glowshift?

 

Don't; you'll never reach its max potential unless you build your motor's top end at least and raise its RPM's from 5.5k to 6k+. Also, you'll get massive lag and driving it would be pretty much like driving stock unless you glue the gas to the floor.

My turbo is smaller than the kit and I probably start boosting at about 2.5k rpm's. Its way too big for me.

The Cx bands are shit, flimsy, and use nylon lock nuts ( ). In case you don't get the connection, the nylon will melt as your exhaust heats up

 

lmao wow thats pretty funny that they'd do that . The more i sit and the think the more im convinced to just do the smaller turbo and only buy the headers and down pipe... Hey gray included a oil catch can in that list...what for?

 

When you go forced induction you have more blow by (more crap getting pushed past the piston rings during combustion).

But I think know I'm just going to go with an cobalt air oil separator. There only like 30 dollars and do the same thing. But Idk if it will hold up to boost pressure....

 

Oh so its just to hookup to the valve cover then I guess?

 

It goes, pcv>Catch can>intake

 

Right ok that makes sense. To catch blow by... welp better add that to the list...

 

Yeah I stead of the blow by going back in the intake it goes in the catch can and your intake stays cleaner, in theory. I'm curious as to if it will be okay to use on a turbo system...

 

Well it should be I mean MCM runs one on super gramps which sees waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay more than 5 psi but i would recommend a baffled one just to reduce inevitable turbulence with boost- I went and researched a bit so I'm by no means an expert just drawing some conclusions Im looking into what mishimoto offers atm...

EDIT: nvm they cost real non ebay grade money

 

The cx bands will work. Just DO NOT over tighten them because the bolt will snap. But buy a couple extra in case one or two break. Just buy the cx headers. I have a GT30 bb, billet wheel turbo that I love but I think the gt35 is too big. It will work fine but most recommend a smaller one. CX sells smaller turbos too.

 

Just buy an ebay intercooler to your liking. Make sure it's bar and plate. Almost all intercooler are the same. Fuck mishimoto and their $500 (same shit) aluminum intercoolers qhen you can get oNE for $90. Also get a tial or precision wastegate. Accept nothing else for your wg.

 

Yeah im putting the list together right now and im just gonna get the little IC in grays list and only buy the headers and downpipe along with the smaller turbo.

 

A catch can is not necessary