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Power Tailgate Lock

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016-2023)' started by rrentrop, Sep 26, 2015.

  1. Jan 26, 2016 at 1:06 PM
    #241
    Daytona Coupe

    Daytona Coupe Well-Known Member

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    You can tap in on the drivers side and still have it on the "other doors" circuit - it just depends on which wires you tap into. Mine is done that way and it works off of the pass doors circuit.
     
  2. Jan 26, 2016 at 1:25 PM
    #242
    vinny1976

    vinny1976 Active Member

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    What color wires did you tap? On the Pop & Lock directions they tap black and blue. (green to black pin 10 and blue to blue pin 9)
     
  3. Jan 26, 2016 at 4:35 PM
    #243
    Daytona Coupe

    Daytona Coupe Well-Known Member

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    Going off of memory, I think it was pink/red and pink/green - it was referenced here in an early post and mine was the same as the OP described. Drivers side kick panel - vertical harness by the door edge.
     
  4. Jan 31, 2016 at 8:53 AM
    #244
    Splat

    Splat Well-Known Member

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    In progress...
    I do confirm that a shell with keyless electric lock + this mod = too many amps for a 5 amps fuse. Since I do not want to increase the fuse amps and risk blowing something, I disconnected this mod and left the cap electric lock on. It prevents the taigate from opening anyway.

    Bottom line: if you plan on adding a shell with keyless lock option, do not do this mod, you won't need it anyway.
     
  5. Feb 1, 2016 at 8:19 AM
    #245
    Daytona Coupe

    Daytona Coupe Well-Known Member

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    Use two relays to provide the power to the tailgate and the shell solenoids, and then trigger the relays with the factory lock signal. I can provide a wiring diagram if needed. This way you will be drawing less than the single tailgate solenoid.
     
  6. Feb 2, 2016 at 6:29 PM
    #246
    DOSS

    DOSS Well-Known Member

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    Could be that with both the electric cap and the tailgate they are drawing more than 5 AMPS double check but I am sure that the door locks are set at 10 AMPS so you could easily bump up to a 10AMP fuse
     
  7. Feb 2, 2016 at 7:49 PM
    #247
    Joe Green

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    Pardon my noob question, but what's a DCLBOR?

    I finished my install (passenger side) today, and everything worked perfectly. I used the 16/18 positaps, and my only concern now is whether ther may be a future issue resulting from running the wires down the right side, where the heat shielding does not really protect it.

    I don't find it excessively loud, but as posted elsewhere, I have the tonneau on, so perhaps the tonneau mutes it somewhat.

    I just put the tailgate key in the center console so it will be available if I ever need it (don't foresee any such scenario, but...). I insisted on push-button start because I don't like keys tearing up my trouser pockets, so the tailgate key was a real bummer when I learned about it. The PowerLock fix was a dream come true.
     
  8. Feb 2, 2016 at 9:23 PM
    #248
    kashtyaatsi

    kashtyaatsi DieselDub

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    Double cab, long bed, off road.
     
  9. Feb 3, 2016 at 6:11 AM
    #249
    Joe Green

    Joe Green Member

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    LOL. Thanks.
     
  10. Feb 3, 2016 at 7:46 AM
    #250
    RHelton10

    RHelton10 Well-Known Member

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    Ok I just re-read this entire thread and I think my head is going to explode. Sorry for asking this for the 1647th time, but I need clarification on wire colors....yeah, I know I'm being "that" guy...

    I want to have my pop n lock work ONLY when the passenger / rear doors are locked / unlocked. NOT when the driver's door locks / unlocks by itself.

    Going in through the passenger side front kick panel - what color wires do I use? I've read many times it's Green to Green, and Blue to Red, but can someone confirm these are the correct wire colors for the Passenger and Rear Doors lock / unlock function only (and not the Driver's door by itself). I'm assuming this is correct but would just like confirmation before I attempt the install this evening.

    Thanks!
     
  11. Feb 3, 2016 at 10:44 AM
    #251
    Daytona Coupe

    Daytona Coupe Well-Known Member

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  12. Feb 3, 2016 at 10:51 AM
    #252
    Joe Green

    Joe Green Member

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    I used the passenger side, and went by this picture, which was posted above by giantBOB (and copied below). Imagine the Red connectors as not being there (I bought some Posi-Taps, instead of using those plastic snap-ons). I didn't have anything plugged into the white connectors, so the black connector was already right out in the open, down close to the floor-board. There were three wires that were stacked vertically, blue-red-green from top to bottom. I connected green-to-green and blue-to-red, and it worked first time (if it's backward, the simplest fix is to swap the green and blue connections where they connect to the solenoid at the at the tailgate lock.

    Sorry, I didn't open the driver's side, so I can offer any help if you came in that way.

     
  13. Feb 3, 2016 at 10:53 AM
    #253
    RHelton10

    RHelton10 Well-Known Member

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    Thank you! And just to confirm, your pop n lock works only when locking / unlocking ALL doors and not just the driver's door right?
     
  14. Feb 3, 2016 at 11:06 AM
    #254
    Joe Green

    Joe Green Member

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    I have keyless entry (is that an optional thing, or do all tacos have it?) set up my truck so that grabbing the driver's side door opens all locks (now including the T/G). All doors also lock/unlock with a single button push on the remote and with the manual key. Also, manually locking any door locks all of them. That was a setting I discovered while exploring the settings in my dash-cam display setup. (I don't remember where I found it, but I'm sure it's mentioned in the manual that I never bothered to read.)

    Personally, I'd prefer to have the other doors and the T/G separate from the driver's door (for foiling potential carjackers), but since the passenger door is not keyless entry, I found it to be more convenient to have everything work together.
     
    Last edited: Feb 4, 2016
  15. Feb 3, 2016 at 1:30 PM
    #255
    Witte

    Witte Well-Known Member

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    Sub'd
     
  16. Feb 3, 2016 at 4:04 PM
    #256
    RHelton10

    RHelton10 Well-Known Member

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    Joe Green and ImTruckinIt like this.
  17. Feb 4, 2016 at 7:40 AM
    #257
    Joe Green

    Joe Green Member

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    Interesting...Thanks for allowing the comparison.

    Mine is not that loud, and it seems to be equally loud whether locking or unlocking. My pop-lock seems to be roughly about the same volume as the beeps--I definitely hear and notice the lock, but it's no more distracting than the beeps, and certainly not as raucous as those cars that beep their horns when the doors are locked.

    Given that yours sounds louder when locking, I wonder if a minuscule adjustment of the bracket would make any difference?
     
  18. Feb 4, 2016 at 9:34 AM
    #258
    Daytona Coupe

    Daytona Coupe Well-Known Member

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    Sound deadening material like Dynamat on the inner side of the tailgate would probably help a bunch. It's like a big drum.
     
  19. Feb 4, 2016 at 9:47 AM
    #259
    RHelton10

    RHelton10 Well-Known Member

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    It really doesn't bother me; I can't even hear it from inside the cab. Truthfully it's not louder than a standard door actuator, but to you point a door has a lot of other sound deadening materials and parts inside that make the door ridged and quiet whereas the tailgate is an empty hull. You could probably also muffle the sound a good bit with some polyfill, making sure to not let it impede the moving parts, of course. But I'm happy with the way it is.
     
  20. Feb 4, 2016 at 9:54 AM
    #260
    Daytona Coupe

    Daytona Coupe Well-Known Member

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    I wouldn't do polyfill, because the tailgate isn't sealed and the polyfill could absorb water. I've gotten used to mine, but I wouldn't mind it being a little quieter. I think I still have some leftover sound deadener, so I'll have to give it a try.
     
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