Road Noise from rear cab vents..?

Since road noise comes from the 'road' (meaning from down), how about adding some sort of insulation (like wedging foam pipe insulation between the front bed and the back of the cab just below the vents). Might just block noise coming up from road, and still allow proper ventilation..?

Saw a post for a fix for noise after adding a camper shell, worked for him.

 

Popping or pressure in your ears.

 

Thanks for taking one for the team. We're eagerly awaiting your test results .

 

^^ Too old and feeble to be trying this in mid-winter. Will give it a go and other insulation in the Spring.

 

I installed a foam pipe wrap between the cab and bed today. The cab has a lip in the body that holds the foam in place perfectly between the cab and bed. I have not driven with it yet though. I honestly doubt it will do much but it only costs a few bucks. Will test it tomorrow.

I slid it in from the passenger side and used a long screw driver to push it up in place over the gas tank since that's a harder area to reach. It extends into the fender area on the drivers side and I bent it downward on the passenger side in the fender area. See pic's:

All photo's taken from under the truck looking up.

This shows the lip on the back side of the cab. This is before I stuffed the foam into the gap/on the lip:


Shown in place on the lip/in the gap:


Another shot installed:






This shows it bend downward on the passenger side. I could have cut it but didn't:

 

This is what I used:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Pratt-Re...on-PI12346PESS/204759081?keyword=817423015418

Also keep in mind that dirt and crap may build up on top of the foam.

 

Hi Mike 330..
Thanks for being the guinea-pig and testing. I wish I could have done more myself, but old age (70) and the nasty weather meant me putting it off till spring.
Yes, 'stuff' could build up on top of the barrier, and possibly cause issues down the road (rust.?.). In any event it could be a test to see if its a possible help.

PS

I followed your early post and testing on your DC Offroad with much interest. Actually it was one of the reasons I bought my Silver OR Access Cab. Thanks for all your contributions..

 

Thanks and nice looking truck!
I've spent many days in Maine in my younger years.

 

I took a short drive on the freeway today and feel the foam I put between the cab and bed made a difference. I will experiment more with the rear seats folded down.

 

I dyno mat's the real bulkhead wall, sealed around the vents and added a 1/2" piece to each of the vent flaps for weight in the hopes of slowing down their opening. To be honest those vents are the sheeits. Road test in the AM. Stay tuned. FYI

 

RCrumb - I sound deadened my back wall by covering it (100%) with RAAMMat,
Ensolite (closed cell roam), the original PET sheet and a solid sheet of EzCool
(insulation) (secured at the top and hanging free, except for where the plastic
clips attach the plastic panels to the back wall) which allows for free movement
of air but attenuates sound. You may consider sealing off the vents, but that will
pressurize the cabin when you try to close the doors. All walls and posts in my
Access Cab are covered with RAAMMat, Ensolite and EzCool. I have two layers of
EzCool on the roof and later will add EzCool to the inner firewall and floor. Right
now my TRD Sport is quieter than my wife's Avalon. You can put Dynomat on the
inner doors but I would not recommend using Ensolite there due to the probable
presence of moisture/water. If you decide to seal off one of the vents, consider the
one on the passenger side, above the muffler. But, that leaves the other one open
to oncoming traffic noise. Some members have considered using Frost King pipe
insulation between the cab and bed, but this leads to a collection of trash & debris
and may result in rust in that area due to movement between the cab and bed.

 

Thanks man. Disappointed in Toyota having designed such a crappy vent and not insulating nor deadening the rear bulkhead. Oh weel, keeps me busy.

Cheers

 

Lets face it, it's real difficult to build a check valve to allow air movement but not
sound. Granted the Gen3 vents are larger and closer to the sides that the Gen1 &
Gen2 vents were (theirs was in the middle) and ours are larger, but the cabin can
be made quieter. Do a little research on closed cell foam (Ensolite), it has better
absorption than the MAT materials which provide mass to retard resonating
frequencies (body sheet metal mass increases and the tendency to vibrate is
lessened). Quieting your ride is attainable, but for what reason? When you block
obvious outside noises, less obvious noises suddenly appear (e.g. wind noise
getting by the door seals, tire noise (different frequency/wave length) and rattles
caused by things you have stored in the console, glove box, floorboard that you
hadn't noticed before. Its a never ending battle! But, you will find that your music
sounds MUCH better and you can carry on a conversation without having to yell -
that is, unless you have the windows down, in which case all your sound deadening
efforts go out the window.
Now, if part of your motive is to insulate the cabin for more comfort, a product
like EzCool helps to make your a/c work less hard in the summer and the same
for your heater in the winter. Just remember that a lot of your heat and cold
penetrate through the roof (no insulation other than the headliner up there),
but most of the heat and cold penetrate through your GLASS surrounding. That's
right, those windows. Think about getting some protection using a tint. You will
see most people shop for light rejection, when UV, heat and cold rejection should
actually be their objective. There are many products on the market that offer
significant UV rejection at reasonable prices. Something to look into.

 

OK road test complete. The cab is definitely quieter and traffic noise of vehicles going by is almost gone. That said there remains a fair amount of wind noise that I'm now convinced is simply air mass moving over the roof and over the box. Not a wasted effort, the dynamat.

 

Mike330R, I'm installing your mod today, foam pipe insulator. I'll see if it along with my dynamatt install makes any improvement.

 

BTW I also aplied rubber cement to the rear access door sears, all around the door. In between the plastic posts that hold it to the door there's all kinds of gaps and loose spots where air can get in. Another cheap job, thx Toyota.

 

Not a bad idea RCrumb, I used 1/2" 3M trim tape on my seals. The cab is almost as
quiet as a church mouse on Sunday!

 

Mike33OR - Consider a mod using two 1" 90 degree Gray PVC pipe sweeps. attach
a 4" or 6" piece of gray PVC pipe to each end and cap each end. Cover these two pieces
with one inch Frost King pipe insulation. Now center one barrier under each vent
and push it to the bottom of the vent with the curved part uppermost. The insulation
and pipe should should provide adequate pressure to hold the barrier in place be long
enough to extend beyond the sides of the vents. The curved design will minimize any
buildup of debris in the area around the vent and facilitate water run-off - not to
mention buffer sound coming from under the vehicle.

 

RCrumb - Get two 2 foot pieces of 3/8" rubber tubing and stuff one between the seal
and the door frame of each front door. Start inserting the tubing about 10 "above the door panel. This should eliminate any if not all of the air (wind) from entering along theweakest part of the front door. Having said that, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!"

 

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