PROJECT DOOMSDAY SEMA 2016

I would love for it to not be true and if he could get glassworks to make a bedside that retained the OE top cap shape I would give him a serious man hug

A short bed makes that entire proposition even harder the flare on a short bed is so severe because of how close the wheel well is to the cab that it would look seriously funky having that much flare with the OE top cap shape...it would look like one of the wide body ricer kits

 

I know. I cut two inches out of my fenders and removed the flares. Don't wanna loose my camper.

 

Shawn,
Very cool looking truck rendering and ideas. Going to borrow a few ideas and look into some of the manufactures and products they have to offer. Good luck on your build and SEMA.

 

I had my bumper built with the sides cut back a few inches and cut the bedsides & flares too. I still need to cut one more inch out of the bedsides. I am working on building my own fiberglass flares...

 

From what I have found picture wise. The top of Glassworks are flat on top. The topper will set on top of the rails that are left and mount to the factory rails on the inside of the truck bed. I may have to trim the topper at the very bottom so it will no longer retain a lip at the bottom. Glassworks stated that this has been done before. I think it will work out. I may have to fabricate some metal on top of the flares all the way around and attach that to the rails inside the truck bed and place the topper on top the metal. Not sure if that make since

 

I would encourage you to look long and hard at it before you do it, cosmetically it ends up looking pretty shabby...when you cut that lip off the bottom of the shell you end up with a real old school " sit on top " look where you can see the gap and see the weather seal. Nowhere near how cool and fitted your rendering looks. A bed rack may be a better idea overall cosmetically for a SEMA build with glass bedsides. The lines of a bed rack would not be a major visual mismatch with the glass bedsides.

Although the glassworks bedsides are flat on top they flare out completely different than the shape of the camper shell sides so you end up with something that visually just stands out like a sore thumb as two parts that were not meant for each other. This / on top of this (

In regard to providing strength for the tops of the glass bedsides I understand what you are driving at - steel L bolted to the inner bed shell over the top of the glass bedside providing a platform for the shell to sit on...but that is going to be hard to do because the glass bedside overlaps the bed shell so your steel L will not be able to sit flush against the bed shell...and the bed shell is not 90 degrees vertical either...so it would have to be spaced off of the bed shell and be made at a custom angle ( brake bend some 10 gauge sheet maybe ? ) think about this too - that L would be one more layer holding the shell up off of the bedside...so in regard to a SEMA worthy build is that layered gap going to look good ?

Not trying to be a troll buddy but many others have been down this road and the results range from " meh " to " aw fook my shell cracked my bedsides the first time I off roaded ". I don't think we have ever found anyone that has done a shell with bedsides successfully both cosmetically and structurally and this discussion has been going on for a couple years. A couple guys run a shell temporarily only while camping.

Again - if you pull it off there are quite a few guys that will buy you a beer to show us how to do it ....right @VolcomTacoma

 

The fender to cap issue is not impossible at all. That's the beauty of fiberglass: it can be easily added on to. If the bedsides are flat on top, then all you have to do is take the paint off the canopy, add foam and shape to exactly what you want then fiberglass back over it and paint. I'm not saying it wouldn't take some serious work to get it to look just right, I'm just saying it's totally doable. It would be much easier to get it all to look fantastic without side windows. Or with solid 'windoors' on the side so you can bring the contour up into the window area. Or use the added thickness needed to meet up with the bedsides as an opportunity to make a really nice recess for something like max trax.

 

CEILING SHOTGUN AND AR15 TRUCKVAULT USA TL-1 MOUNTS. TRUCKVAULT.COM

I have some video footage on the Instagram and Facebook build page. @Project_Doomsday

 

New rendering @kpconcepts added some more of the builds sponsors. Fenders are being finished up by Glassworks right now and should be ready in about a week then I can get the fenders all mounted up and prepped for the topper.

 

@atomic_offroad is doing some renderings of the front grill. The letters will be back lit and the grill will house a 20 inch KC Hilites FLEX led light bar. Hope to have an update soon.

 

Most of the plastic interior parts were removed out of the truck. They were scrubbed down using Killerwaxx OOOZE multipurpose cleaner and scuffed up using a 3M red scrub pads. Next all parts where wiped down with a grease and wax remover then Followed by a coat of adhesion promoter. Then painted with Dupicolor vinyl and rubber dye.

I also removed the brown carpet and replaced it with a new trim to fit black carpet kit. Husky Xact contour Liners where installed to keep the new carpet clean.

Jotto Gear NRA holster was installed.

Seats where removed, all stock cloth was removed from the seats. ROADWIRE LEATHER INTERIORS installed the new seat covers in there new pattern the double diamond stitch.

Headliner was dropped and reupholstered in black swade.

Inserts from the door panels and reupholstered in the same matching leather from Roadwire leather interiors.

Door panels, and front window pillars removed and will be Hydrodipped by Titan Graphics

All other plastics that were removed were sent out at a ealier date to Rock City Hydrodipping.

More pictures will follow as the interior is fully completed.

 

I installed the front Glassworks Unlimited fenders by myself. I the took the truck to Shaun at Rogue Offroad in Las Vegas and him and his staff installed the rear Glassworks Unlimited fenders and aligned the front fenders.

 

I picked up the Snugtop topper at a local dealer shop in Las Vegas. From there coming up some type of secure install was going to be the challenge.

I took the plastic truck bed caps and cut off the tabs. Then filled them with spray in foam and shaved them flat. Next step is to incase those bed caps with a thick layer of U-POL Raptor bedliner.

I had new mounts fabed up from angle iron and studs welded on. The bed rails were removed and holes where drill to match the mounting points.

Holes where drilled for the stock bed caps to fit down over the studs.

Truck bed was sanded down and will be coated in Raptor bedliner.

The Snugtop topper was lowered down and lined up with the studs and holes where drilled and the topper was booted down.
I will be cutting approximately a half an inch from the bottoms of each side of the topper so it sits lower over the caps.

 

The hood scoop insert and new tailgate arrived, so now the truck will be dropped off at 360 Cars where the owner Jesse and I will finish the prep work on the build before coating the truck in bed liner. The frame will be prepped and coated in black Raptor bedliner. The truck bed is already prepped and ready for black Raptor bedliner. The fender wells will be prepped and coated in black Raptor bedliner. The engine bay will be prepped and coated in black Raptor bedliner.

There will be some additional fiber glass work added before it's coating of Raptor bedliner.

Next the Snugtop and the entire body, door jams will be prepped and the truck will be coated in tintable Raptor bedliner and it will be the color ANVIL.