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96 sr5 about to get loud(er)

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by Minnetacoma, Jan 5, 2016.

  1. Feb 7, 2016 at 3:25 PM
    #21
    NastyRunner

    NastyRunner Active Member

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    You don't need tons of power in a t line. Thay are extremely efficient and a sub can reach its mechanical limits faster
     
  2. Feb 7, 2016 at 3:25 PM
    #22
    Minnetacoma

    Minnetacoma [OP] Well-Known Member

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    3.5 fabtech suspension lift with dirt logic shocks, Wheelers Alcon 8 pack rear leafs with extended brake line All pro rock sliders Cbi DIY front bumper with m8000 winch Cbi bushmaster 1.0 non swing arm 33x10.5 BFG mud terrains Skid row front skid plate Trs headlight retro fit fxr 2.5in projectors with rbg halos Audio/electrical upgrades K2 73ah lithium battery Big 4 upgrade 300a Ohio generator alt Alpine type r 6.5 coaxials in front Alpine type s 6.5 coaxials in back Alpine double din touchscreen Digital designs z3 15” subwoofer Digital designs m4 amp Alpine ktp 445u behind the dash amp for speakers 152db
    I didn't do business with him just a guy who got one from him...
     
  3. Feb 7, 2016 at 4:13 PM
    #23
    manethon

    manethon TTAS

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    I'm aware ;) but its always about pushing the limits :)
     
  4. Feb 7, 2016 at 4:15 PM
    #24
    NastyRunner

    NastyRunner Active Member

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    I'm sorry op for changing thread but there is a point to picking limits. The lines have less rise. Takes less to get the cone moving. And I especially wouldn't put 5k to that sub.

    But anyway I can't wait to see the outcome
     
  5. Feb 7, 2016 at 5:38 PM
    #25
    Minnetacoma

    Minnetacoma [OP] Well-Known Member

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    3.5 fabtech suspension lift with dirt logic shocks, Wheelers Alcon 8 pack rear leafs with extended brake line All pro rock sliders Cbi DIY front bumper with m8000 winch Cbi bushmaster 1.0 non swing arm 33x10.5 BFG mud terrains Skid row front skid plate Trs headlight retro fit fxr 2.5in projectors with rbg halos Audio/electrical upgrades K2 73ah lithium battery Big 4 upgrade 300a Ohio generator alt Alpine type r 6.5 coaxials in front Alpine type s 6.5 coaxials in back Alpine double din touchscreen Digital designs z3 15” subwoofer Digital designs m4 amp Alpine ktp 445u behind the dash amp for speakers 152db
    You only put 5 k to a sub if you wire to 1ohm... Just like if I wired my fi down to 1 ohm nominal .7 ohm actual on the ts 1.8kw she would be seeing probably 2200rms in this t line.... But as I know in a t line it does take less power to achieve full mechanical limits so rated is perfect. Which is what she's seeing at 2.8 ohm... Now if I wired in a dd m4b amp it would be for the level 5 that's rated for 3-3.5 kW and that would be my goal for power to it... So instead of wiring to 1 ohm I'd shoot for 4 and end up with 2.8 just like I am now on my fi ssd.... Built to order subs are the way to go... Extremely pleased...

    I stopped buy the local audio shops and this kid was talking about how he's powering his w7 with 3000 watts which I know is highly unlikely jl subs like rated power and there rated pretty accurately... But I mentioned my build and he wanted to hear it.... Left him in awe....
     
  6. Feb 7, 2016 at 5:45 PM
    #26
    NastyRunner

    NastyRunner Active Member

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    I have a dd m4a on 2 havocs at the moment. Wired at .5

    A lot of it has to do with what you know. I wasn't saying that to you though. I was saying it to the other guy. As for the level 5 10. I would be careful even on that twisted amp. It should dance though. I would like to see a sweep once it's in
     
  7. Feb 7, 2016 at 6:17 PM
    #27
    Minnetacoma

    Minnetacoma [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Well here's the way I look at it... If the level 5 ten blows she gets a makeover with extenze and turns into a 18" and then it's 155db tacoma time...

    I currently have two diamond audio d6 15's I'm hitting up psi for upgraded drop in recones to make them hopefully 1500rms subs without this hideous stock cone lol

    1b70030a1caa28cc84106625d0856b13_db57b5e514e14a37f553b3e4fc9955016bb3471c.jpg

    Oh yea and a brand new in box crossfire c5 d2 15 as well so I've got options upon options...

    But you have aa havocs how do you like them... Sister company of fi gotta love em... I've drool'd over the mayhem 10 contemplating buying one but lotta money when I'll already have the level 5 which should be able to take more power
     
  8. Feb 7, 2016 at 6:18 PM
    #28
    Minnetacoma

    Minnetacoma [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Oh and manethon knows a thing or two as well I believe he's a distributor for someone
     
  9. Feb 7, 2016 at 6:27 PM
    #29
    NastyRunner

    NastyRunner Active Member

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    Havocs are the only aa/fi/crossfire sub I'll run. Best sub they make. But i. have the older triple stack motors with pole vent.
     
    Last edited: Feb 7, 2016
  10. Feb 7, 2016 at 6:41 PM
    #30
    Minnetacoma

    Minnetacoma [OP] Well-Known Member

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    How many have you ran?
     
  11. Feb 7, 2016 at 6:45 PM
    #31
    NastyRunner

    NastyRunner Active Member

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    Q,sp4,gayhem,havoc and xsv2
     
  12. Feb 7, 2016 at 7:49 PM
    #32
    Minnetacoma

    Minnetacoma [OP] Well-Known Member

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    And your saying the only one you liked was the havoc? Care to elaborate
     
  13. Feb 7, 2016 at 7:54 PM
    #33
    NastyRunner

    NastyRunner Active Member

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    Yes the only one I liked was the havoc. The q was weak, the gayhem needed to big of a box and even then wasn't awesome output, the sp4 leads wouldn't hold up and the xsv2 sounded hollow
     
  14. Feb 7, 2016 at 8:00 PM
    #34
    jad3d

    jad3d Well-Known Member

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    I have seen alot of this misconception go around. Music is dynamic and resistance is reactive. Unless you're playing single frequency burps all the time at peak frequncy you will not see the above mentioned power numbers applied to the subwoofer. You can put a 5k amp to a 5k sub setup but on music you will have a hard time getting 5k to that sub. On a burp the possibility of 5k to the sub becomes more likely. When referencing amplifiers many people tend to use the potential power as their rms when in reality the power output is affected and dependant on resistance which is a result of nominal subwoofer resistance and box rise. Box rise also varies across frequencies and no box can never have rise. Rise as high as double digit ohms is not uncommon especially as you get higher in the frequency band (45+ hz). In the end I would say your amplifier has the potential to push out 2200 watts rms but you have to understand that rating was derived from a burp at a single frequency at a non-reactive resistance load. I have done the work the old fluke meter way and the amm1 way and you would be surprised at how much (or little) power is actually being produced during music playback. The biggest advantage of using a higher power amp on a subwoofer that is rated less is that the amplifier can now produce more than enough power needed to drive the subwoofer without worrying too much about box rise. In other words you gain headroom on the amp.
     
  15. Feb 7, 2016 at 8:47 PM
    #35
    Minnetacoma

    Minnetacoma [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I understand the concept of box rise and a poorly built box will have tons of it... It's the main thing people have to battle when building spl... What I'm staying is if your running s proper box and your playing the music your box is tuned to you should have the least box rise at tuning. If his amp really produces 3k which he didn't say what he was running could be a boss amp for all I know... But if running a quality box that sub should not last long at 2kw over rated if his box rise is minimal...

    It's the main reason I won't sweat when I rebuild these diamond audio d6 subs and run my ts1.8kw at .35 ohm because I know I'll probably have a little rise and not a big deal because this amp is beast and if my setup is just so and my rise is small I should clamp 2.5-3kw as long as I keep my voltage in the 14.6-14.7 range... And if I run 14v batts and a external I'll set it to 15.6-.7 and be seeing 3.5-.8 at 1ohm
     
  16. Feb 7, 2016 at 9:31 PM
    #36
    jad3d

    jad3d Well-Known Member

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    The reason spl competitors wire that low is because they know exactly what their rise is. They don't rely on rise to get them to nominal resistance...they leverage their rise to extract as much power as possible. It's alot to try put into this post so I will say just be safe with that low of a resistance. I personally won't wire down that low even after verifying rise. I have long stepped away from spl and prefer a stable daily ground pounder. Good luck.
     
  17. Feb 7, 2016 at 9:35 PM
    #37
    NastyRunner

    NastyRunner Active Member

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    Yes. Exactly right. When I was competing I was wired to .25 because I was rising to a little over 2 ohm. Music is differant because you're playing many frequencies instead of just one.

    The lowest I'll ever wore daily is .5,
     
  18. Feb 7, 2016 at 9:39 PM
    #38
    manethon

    manethon TTAS

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    i have always liked .7 for daily. I had my SS nw setup running at .35 and had a 3.2x rise just just over 1ohm . It worked well for bass race as well and psyclone but daily music it wasn't the best.

    When i had the 4 Fi n3;s running off 2 SD 12kws in ss3-4 i ran them at 1.4ohm though since the amps didn't like to be wired below 1ohm and i had limited amount of batteries for them so efficiency was more important to me than fighting rise and dealing with busted amps

    I have had just about every sub/ company's items listen in this thread and them some.
    @NastyRunner Everything is about what you know ;) and what you have physical experience with. There are way to many know it alls these days making ridiculous claims that anyone who actually competes in a sanction like DB drag would know is a buncha smoke.

    I was simply saying, With tacoma's generally your limited to the amount of space. TL boxes are amazing for efficiency and if you can figure that out plus a sub that can handle the power you have a winning formula.
     
  19. Feb 7, 2016 at 9:45 PM
    #39
    NastyRunner

    NastyRunner Active Member

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    All I know about tacoma s is they get loud easily. I have a silverado. One of the hardest vehicles to get loud. Audio is pretty much my love (besides the wife)

    I'm only here to learn a little about these trucks because I just bought my mother an x runner.
     
  20. Feb 7, 2016 at 9:48 PM
    #40
    manethon

    manethon TTAS

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    depending on what classification we are talking about, i found tacoma 05+ DC to be hard.
    To break a 150 sealed on the dash Term lab db drag ss nw was challenging. My truck was substantially louder with the mic in the kick, door open etc etc and found they sounded MUCH louder than they metered

    Walled breaking 160 is VERY challenging and gave up before i got to it
     

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