*Indel-B Fridge/Freezer GROUP BUY AND BS THREAD!!!**CLOSED

The Sears Diehard Platinum Marine batteries (the rebranded Odysseys) were discontinued some time last year.

 

Just FYI, it's not a good idea to deplete your battery more than 50% of its charge level. Meaning you would only get about half the amount of run time that you posted (approx 47 hours) before you should be recharging unless you want to completly nuke your battery and cause damage to it.

 

Yup, which is why I've been looking into Optima batteries now...

Yup, for most deep cycle batteries that advertise 100 amp/hours this means that once they're down to about 12.30 volts that means your AGM battery's at around 50%.

 

I run solar on my truck already for extended camping trips. Currently I only have a single 30w panel. I made a mount for it that allows me to set it up for tracking to get max output.




I have a 110AH deep cycle marine battery mounted underneath my sleeping platform. I have this 30w panel hooked up to a cheap PWM solar regulator. From my battery I have a circuit breaker and then cables that run to a custom fuse box/load control centre. This box has 12v sockets, USB sockets, light switches, LED dimmer, and a volt/amp meter and has a 10 slot Blue Sea fuse block mounted internally.


This system currently has no problem keeping up with my use of a 12V crate fan, LED camp lighting, 900W inverter, and 12V and USB sockets for recharging electronic devices.

In order to keep up with the new additional demand of this fridge I will be adding a second 30W solar panel, hard mounting them so they are constantly charging and hopefully making them easily removable to be able to setup for tracking like my current setup. I will also be upgrading my cheap PWM solar regulator to a combination DC-DC charger/MPPT solar regulator. The only product I've found on the market suitable for this application is the CTEK D250s DUAL.



This will allow my auxiliary battery to charge off the trucks alternator and also charge off solar. Because the CTEK is a smart charger it will more efficiently charge up my auxiliary battery compared to cheap isolator and comes with less headaches than a true dual battery system.

 

that is very cool! Did you create that bed/drawer system youself?

 

Remember this works like a regular fridge. It's not "on" all the time. I had one in 120 degree heat and it would come on maybe 5 min an hour.

Longest trip was 18 days using only a second battery, no solar. The truck charged up the battery no problem. Longest sustained no drive was 48 hours and these fridges can handle it no problem.

The model I was using was dual zone so it had a frozen compartment that stayed frozen the entire trip.

Trust me the only problem you are going to have is having the contents explode from being juggled around while 4x4ing.

I kept lots of water bottles to keep everything secure and act as an insulator.

 

Wow, that helps allot thank you. Had no idea they were that efficient. It sounds like it can make ice too!

 

ok so this will be a little confusing but a battery has an amp hour rating. for this math i will use my dual battery set up and a 50L fridge.
(
the batterys have a 55ah rating x 2 giving me a 110ah thats at a 20 hour rate so 110/20= 5.5 amps *12 volts=66 watts

the fridge consumes 50 watts of energy when running so.... 50/12= 4.166 amps

110ah/4.166amps = 26.4 hours of CONTINUOUS running. and if the previous statement of 5 minutes of running every hour is true then 26.4*12(how many 5 min are in an hour)= 295.2 hours before my battery is fully dead.
to make this a safer number we will say it runs for 10 minutes every hour so 147.6 hours. thats over 6 days of running the refrigerator with outcharging the batterys. (this will bring your battery to zero so not recomeneded for using your starting battery to run the fridge for that long)

 

I assume that math to be true without taking temperature or any other draw from other accessories into account. But, like you said you don't want to drain your batteries. Preferably not below 50%.

 

Correct and correct. In reality if your alternator puts out like it should put our 80amps and if this only takes 4.16amps then your going to replace more then you take.

 

Yup!

Which hopefully means that running this thing off the starting battery when the truck is off for 10-12 hours or so at night won't kill the battery.

 

i thought the fridge will stop drawing from the truck battery after it gets too low?

 

You can make it do that.

 

Yup, it has that option.

 

Having a hard time finding the info online but from what I gathered the low voltage cutoff has three settings.

Low cutoff - 9.6v
Med cutoff - 10.1v
High cutoff - 11.1v

Ever tried starting your truck off 11.1v?

Good luck.

 

@.45 JHP, I'd like to be added to the list for just the fridge slide, if that's within the rules. (I also need a new 12v power cord, mine broke. Hoping they can add that to an order).

 

Sent you a PM

 

My PM-1 was a piece of cr@p and died after a year and a half. The good news is that since Sears no longer carries it and it had a full replacement warranty I got my money back. I now have a X2 (Northstar) installed in my truck. It has a little less capacity but with my ArkPak as a backup I feel like I am good to go. I also have a 60 watt solar panel. Here's the new battery I am referring to. https://www.batteriesplus.com/productdetails/sli27fagmdp . For those that have only a starter battery in their truck and it is 3 years old or so you might consider just replacing it with a good deep cycle AGM like the X2. With that, a jumpbox, and solar I really don't feel the need for a dual battery setup. I only bought the ArkPak because my wife can use it in another vehicle and I already had a good Optima 34 that was removed from my dual battery setup. The link posted to the $50 dual battery setup was correct so thanks for posting it.

It really depends on what kind of camping you do. If you are moving every day you really don't need another battery. If you are setup for days I say go solar because in the end you will need to charge your battery at some point. One persons opinion that has gone the dual battery route and changed his mind. I love solar because I can charge the battery on my trailer or truck as required. I don't have to run my engine and disturb the peace during the day because I see my voltage dropping.

High cutoff setting on my fridge is cut-out 11.1 cut-in 12.4.
Medium is cut-out 10.1 cut-in 11.4
Low cut-out 9.6 cut-in 10.9

I have mine set to high. Personally I wish the values were more conservative. I wish it would cut out at 12.2.

On my ARB fridge the thresholds were:
Switch off voltage – 12V DC Low 10.1V - Med 11.4V - High 11.8V
Restart voltage – 12V DC Low 11.1V - Med 12.2V - High 12.6V

From the Indel Manual:
Electronic Control

Compressor station

Functions and features.

This is an electronic device which has the function of piloting the motor of the compressor and carrying out all the controls and electrical protection of the system.

Its main features are as follows:

a) Protection of the battery through automatic turning off of the compressor when the feeding voltage reaches the minimum threshold. The compressor will start up again automatically when the voltage goes back to normal values.

Note: these values have been measured at control unit input and/or on the DC socket.
Battery protection
(SWITCH POSITION)

Cut-out 12v Cut-in 12v
LOW 9.6 10.9
MED 10.1 11.4
HIGH 11.1 12.4

The compressor will start up again automatically when the voltage goes back to normal values.

 

Thanks!

 

after hitting up some marine forums ive found my battery

1000cca

880 @0*