I made a thing for switches because the thing I wanted didn't exist.

Keeping things in the cab relatively stock looking is kind of a big deal for me, I don't like the look of Autozone toggles everywhere so when I needed to add a couple switches I decided to make a thing rather than hack my dash. I made a switch plate to fit in place of the somewhat useless (at least to me) dash pocket to the left of the steering wheel. It's sized to fit two Toyota style 22mm x 32mm push button switches.



Fit's the space really nicely with minimal coaxing to fit the switches in as well and the plate to the dash panel. Tight fitting all around means that nothing will rattle. Cheap Ali Express switch color isn't 100% to OEM and neither is the black panel they are mounted in, but I'm sure I'll get over it eventually. I'm always my worst critic.



EDIT - Getting a lot of questions at the end of the thread so I'm bringing the important stuff to the top post so you don't have to wade through every post to get to it. I made the part, it worked. Put it up for sale on Shapeways, a 3D printing service that pays me a small cut for every unit sold. Shapeways makes very high quality prints, something that simply can't be matched with consumer level printers, plus you can choose from a wide range of colors (if you're into that). Also, I designed a three switch version for the narrower Toyota style switches, installed photo courtesy of @ekimerpud:



Both plates can be purchased though Shapeways, this is the link for the two switch version, and this is the link for the three switch version.

Please note: These two switch plates take two different size switches. The two switch plate takes the fatter Toyota style switches, like the stock switches in the lower center console. The three switch plate takes the narrower Toyota style switches, same size as the "Clutch Start Cancel" switch below where the plate mounts, automatic transmission trucks have a blank fill plate in this location.

At some point in the thread I also discussed making a plate for Carling switches, that is not going to happen since they won't fit without modification to the lower dash panel and my goal is a simple and clean solution that is both OEM looking and reversible.

EDIT #2 - Added a simple blank out plate. You can find it here. Drill some holes and put any kind of switch you like in there.

EDIT #3 - As requested in a PM I added a two switch plate using the narrow switches. Model can be found here. This may be a better option than the dual fat switch plate since it seems like there's a better variety in the narrow switches.

EDIT #4 - At the request of a member I've added another variant. This is same as the three switch plate with the rightmost switch location swapped with a pair of Keystone mounts. Model is here. If you're wondering what this is for, it's probably not the blank for you, but for a select ham nerds (myself included) this might just be the clean mic jack you've been looking for. Use for running two mics, hot swapping one mic between radios, or simply use a blank out plate to eliminate what you don't need. Due to space constraints the keystone is oriented sideways with the push clip to the left.

EDIT #5 - Updated list of all variations of my cubby replacement panels and associated products:

First one I made, two short OEM style switches, this is the only cubby plate making use of this size switch:
https://www.shapeways.com/product/EWH4EQRKR/tacoma-switch-plate

Two switches:
https://www.shapeways.com/product/24SYWZ66V/dual-narrow-switch-plate-16-tacoma

Three switches:
https://www.shapeways.com/product/CHMNWZF8H/tacoma-narrow-switch-plate-for-16-tacoma

Two switches in the left and center positions, blank on the right:
https://www.shapeways.com/product/GG2MSUX4J/two-switch-panel-with-right-blank

Blank plate, no holes at all:
https://www.shapeways.com/product/BKRG3BWST/2016-tacoma-dash-pocket-blank-plate

Mounting hole for RedArc Tow Pro on the left, blank center and right:
https://www.shapeways.com/product/XMYEH7Z4F/2016-tacoma-switch-plate-w-space-for-redarc-towp

Mounting hole for RedArc Tow Pro on the left, OEM switch center, and blank right:
https://www.shapeways.com/product/SLLX8MHJQ/3rd-gen-toyota-switch-plate-w-towpro-and-single-c

Mounting hole for RedArc Tow Pro on the left, OEM switches center and right:
https://www.shapeways.com/product/3EALSXSAD/3rd-gen-tacoma-two-switch-panel-w-redarc-towpro

Two switches in left and center positions, double keystones on the right
https://www.shapeways.com/product/D5YMDZE2N/tacoma-dual-narrow-switch-with-double-keystone

Two round switches as found included with Rigid products:
https://www.shapeways.com/product/DSP526ZQN/3rd-gen-toyota-tacoma-switch-plate-for-round-rigid

Add anywhere single switch, requires cutting, accepts short OEM style switches:
https://www.shapeways.com/product/Z9RGWG4AN/single-switch-panel

Add anywhere double switch, requires cutting, accepts short OEM style switches:
https://www.shapeways.com/product/ZZYW6KN22/simple-two-switch-panel

Add anywhere keystone holder, requires cutting:
https://www.shapeways.com/product/4LN869W6N/keystone-holder

OEM short switch sized keystone holder:
https://www.shapeways.com/product/22APYPH5F/short-toyota-switch-blank-with-keystone

OEM short switch sized mic hanger:
https://www.shapeways.com/product/95RW38ETC/toyota-switch-mic-mount

 

Nice work!

 

Wow, nice!

 

Are you willing to share the mode .stl file? I have a printer.

 

and are you willing to modify it to hold 3-4 taller toyota buttons? (like the Clutch Start Cancel button)

 

I prefer to keep my IP protected but thanks for asking.

Yes, sometime next week I'll be modifying for 3 of the narrow Toyota switches and either 2 or 3 Carling (not sure yet how many fit).

 

Thanks. Count me in on a 3 switch plate.

 

Curious how much that costed to produce?

 

@forty2 can you put 2 prewired dc in it instead? I buy it. I find it useful, i can plug-in usb power or dc power devices.

 

Markup is $2.00 + rounding to the nearest dollar. 3.5% of the markup goes back to Shapeways, the rest gets paid out to me.

 

I can't put prewired anything in since it's just the printed plastic that gets produced by Shapeways. If you have a product in mind that you'd like to see in the panel link it here. When I get a chance I'll buy whatever it is you want to see in there and adapt the model to it. Won't model anything without product in hand though. I don't like to print the unknown.

 

When will your Sand Ladder be available?

 

Can you 3D print me a solid axle swap kit and some King Shocks? Thanks.

Just playin around, but that does look top notch. I love the OEM look and I'm pretty sure the quality is damn near just as good.

 

Didn't really have the strength I was going for, as a display piece it works well enough though. Just didn't want to start selling them and have people disappointed in the performance that isn't there. You can see it in the background here:



If you actually want one I'll make it available. At $1 markup plus rounding it comes in at $11 or $12 depending on color.

 

@forty2, is that a pic of a model? I don't wanna sound stupid but the way the lighting is and all it really looks like it???

 

I assume you mean in post #15, yes. All 1:10 scale, two Tamiya M-chassis, an HPI Cup Racer and barely visible was once an Axial SCX10.

 

Ya that's what I was talking about and that's AWESOME m the detail is crazy!

 

This is what's mostly out of frame:

 

That's absolutely f'n whiled! I thought about setting up model trains as a kid but never had the patience... Did you build all that?

And sorry to distract from the thread topic... That is one hell of a clean mouting plate!

 

Yeah, hacked up a WalMart JK and an Axial frame, welded things together, that's the end result. It's not nearly as meticulous as many of the high detail models out there, but I also run it pretty hard and pretty often.

Early half of the build.

Hard part done, still in need of details.