Buying a first gen! Is this one worth it?

hew TW, I let my Tacoma go a while back, and now I'm in the market for a new one. I found this one for sale and the guy says he's pretty firm on the price $9500. It has A solid axle that was done right – which already puts me a couple grand ahead, but it has about 175,000 miles on it. Maintained, I know these engines can go about as long as I need them to... But I wanted a second opinion on this truck before I pull the trigger!
http://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/cto/5434060634.html

Let me know what you think, eventually I would lower it a little bit and build an expo rig out of it. I'm planning on buying it this Saturday, the price is a little bit high for me, but if everything is in good condition I'll be willing to pay the asking price.

 

YES

 

Leaf spring solid axle swap? I'd pass.

 

actually, this is concerning on the ad "Clean title (still owe 7500 to the bank)"

 

That doesn't bother me too much, it's what I would've ended up doing to a Tacoma anyway. Eventually I might go to coilovers.

I was talking to the guy over the phone, he has a loan out on the truck so we would walk into the bank together when we made the deal. That way I know for sure he paid off the bank and the title will go to me with no issues.

 

Not bad, a post in the sas/bs section might get a few more accurate opinions.

Looks like a couple things to check for.

-The front frame not plated -essential, these frames are very thing and need to be beefed up to handle the stress from the sas (ex. Steering box, shackle hangers, shock mounts)

-"Rear drive shaft dropped several inches to prevent vibration" concerning, any pics of this?

-"Suspension is pretty stiff" - That's due to that front shackle being 90° at ride height. Shorter shackle or taking a leaf out of that front spring pack may help angle that shackle some for a softer ride.

-For kicks, any pics of that front driveshaft, looks odd..

Just my 2c.

 

Expo rig, Id go four door, plus I think four door first gens are sexy

 

There's absolutely nothing wrong with a leaf sprung truck.

Most people don't really understand what a "clean title" is. They think if it has no wrecks it is "clean" when in actuality a lien on the title makes it not "clean".


As far as the truck itself, it looks like it's in good shape. The shocks on the front and rear are way too short and will need replacing if you intend to wheel it. As it's been mentioned the frame rails really should have been plated up front.

Another thing to ask about is when the timing belt was last done. It's supposed to be done every 90K on the 3.4 so that one is coming up on it's second one (if it was even replaced the first time).

 

So would getting the frame plated after the shock hoops and everything have been installed be a PITA?

 

In my opinion, something to this extent should be passed. You should get something with nice wheels and tires and maybe a lift, and doing the rest the way you want it and doing the right way. But anything beyond that has a serious potential of buying someone else's problems.

Just my 2¢. Sorry to burst the temptation bubble.

 

Yes. You have to cut the shock hoops off, plate the frame, and re-install the hoop. If you're wanting it to drive around it will be fine the way it is. If you intend to wheel it, it needs to be plated. Adds extra strength and rigidity to the front frame section to support the solid axle and the forces associated with one.

Another thing to mention is he says it has chevy 63's up front. I can promise you that it definitely does not; he doesn't know what he's talking about there. 63's are a rear spring, nobody runs them up front cause they would hang out in front of the truck by 10"+. The fronts are probably 4404's or TG (seems to be the most popular for swaps).

 

These would be a start for plating the frame.

And x2 63s are wayyy to long to be in the front. Rears very well could be.

 

All in all even with the few mentioned problems I would get it. I'd offer 9k cash probably if the timing belt was done and it checks out.

 

No worries, that's why I'm here

 

So would there be any way for me to get frame plates welded on without removing the shock hoops or rear shackle mount? That sounds like the biggest culprit here…

 

Good lord...write, speak, grammar?

 

You're going to have to put work into anything you buy. Are the shackle angle's ideal? No. Driveline drop is not a big deal as it should help with vibes and honestly if you're going to wheel it you should lower it and remove the driveline drop (since it wont be needed at the new height).

 

Shock hoops have to come off, rear shackles shouldn't as they are underneath. Was just saying that the plating helps supports such things as the shock hoops and the weight/pressure put on by the shackles. Front shock hoops can get ripped off without plating, but the steering box is where alot of the plating needs to be. That area sees a great deal of pressure and deflection when turning in the rocks.

Doesn't look all bad though, seems to be a common working combo that just needs some beefing up in certain areas. Over the years certain areas have proven to fail while under the stress of wheeling.

 

haha my bad, I'm Tapping away from an iPhone

Yeah, I'm not too worried about those because replacing shackles isn't a big deal. I'd run it like that for a little while, but by Mid summer it would be on 35's and a couple inches lower. Still, getting the frame reinforced is a must considering what I want to do with the truck. I just have to figure out how much that'll set me back. It sounds like he's pretty firm on the price, but maybe if he hasn't done the timing and I tell him about the few little things he'll be willing to go down little bit.

Thanks for all the info, so would longer shackles fix the angle without lifting the truck anymore than it already is?

 

Fixing the shackle angle isn't as easy as just swapping shackles. To fix a 90* shackle you're either going to have to use a longer spring or move the shackle hanger forward. You could try a shorter shackle first.