Secondary air injection switching valve.......?

I found the AIP parameters and it looks like mine is running correctly, they bypass we are all talking about makes the truck think its below 40* therefore keeping the system from running.

"pxsp is correct that the AIP mode will have no effect on an emissions test. The AIP system would not normally operate during an emissions test. It only functions under a specific set of conditions. These are from the AIP system description.
Operation Condition :
Engine Coolant Temp. 41 to 104F (5 to 40C)
Intake Air Temp. 41F (5C) or more
The only condition where the pumps operate is when the engine has been off long enough for the coolant temp to get below 104 degrees and the outside air temp is above 40 degrees.
SteveJ's original AIP mod (and pxsp's 2nd generation mod) prevent the operation by telling the system that the air temperature is below 40 degrees."

 

I have the proto type to the above system. The cost is about $45 to build your own. Might want to look into that before dropping the long dollar that they are asking.

I'm on my phone, so searching for my instructions isn't going to happen until I get to a computer tomorrow.

 

The o nly thing it would fail would be the "visual test". Would have to be a pretty sharp tech to see the 2 18 gauge wires going into the engine loom.

 

Oh yeah, by no means am I saying that a failing AIP system would cause the truck to fail smog. UNLESS the pump itself was stuck on due to a bad relay or something, which would radically change and affect the emissions a negative way during fuel control.

The only other way the pump system would cause a smog issue is if it triggered the MIL to trip on or leave a pending trouble code which the OBD 2 reader could pick up on.

By successfully bypassing the system, however, the computer would be tricked into thinking all is well and never cause an issue during smog, as an AIP individual test has never been a requirement for an OBD 2 equipped vehicle in the CA smog program.

Interesting that they don't work under 40*... possibly that does have to do with "protection" of the system from trying to work when it could potentially be frozen is my idea behind them disabling it's functionality.

 

https://www.hewitt-tech.com/store/ Hopefully they sell a kit for your Model. When I purchased mine the kit came with two block off plates, so their was no way hot exhaust gasses would back feed into the hoses, rubber, and plastic pieces. As our Trucks get older, more of this stuff is going to fail. Other part suppliers are offering new or rebuilt parts to the public. http://www.toyotamarinparts.com/p/T...System-Control-Valve/48195687/258600P010.html

 

Found the original PDF that I used to build my by pass for the Tundra. I'm willing to bet most everything i s the same for a V-6 Tacoma.

If you have the ability to hook up your own off road lights using relays, you can do this mod. It really is electrical 101.

I hope my computer skills are up to sending over the PDF.

 

Thank you for this. Going to get some resistors and give this a try asap. the bypass kit is a week or 2 away for me, so this is alot quicker and cheaper. Will post up pics of anything different with the 12s

 

Resistor idea is genius.

Ill have to note when my 13' runs, but i know id does on startup and shutdown almost always when its a cold start. Really cold starts, im not sure, never taken notice of it when i start in freezing temps.

 

Thanks for the PDF! Twalt keep us updated in how it works out on our trucks, good luck!

 

You're welcome.

Now someone with a second gen Tacoma do this and report back. I'm just as curious as others.

Later

Kirk

 

This seems to be a MUCH cheaper fix, than what https://www.hewitt-tech.com/store/ has to offer! I remember installing the plug and play kit. After I installed it I was having issues, cause the air injection motor was bad. He replied that that the air injection system had to be in working order for his by-pass system to work. I hope there's a follow up on this, to verified the color wires and connections. One thing on landing wires on the starter relay. Had issues with getting a good contact with the blade, so I made a small notch/grove in the blade close to the body and solder the wire to the blade.

 

I was just thinking about this bypass mod and we will still need to install block-off plates on the exhaust tubes or else the system will detect the exhaust pulses and still set a code for the valves stuck open.

 

I read where that is true, but what is its purpose other than emissions?

 

That's what I am thinking myself. So I am wondering if we'll still have to purchase block off plates anyways.

 

It is 100% an emissions item... id fight them like hell to explain how it is not.

 

Who gave you this answer? Corporate? Dealer?

 

That was Corporate, but since visiting the dealer that has changed and we are back to sorry its only 3/36k and we don't care that the truck was in at 29k with the same issue as was my case. I love how they don't let it fall under the emissions when that's its main purpose or powertrain when it places the truck in limp mode rendering it useless drive. I have a case open with Toyota on the issue but after todays most recent conversation with them it looks like they could careless. So over $500 they have lost a customer as this is the last Toyota I will ever buy, I have never had a vehicle have a failure like this with such low mileage. Its unacceptable and on a part Toyota knows very well has issues, but that seems to b the common theme with them as a manufacturer.

We will have to purchase block off plates for a bypass to work or the valves will still throw codes for stuck open/closed.

 

alls im reading is, glad i got a 13 thats programmed to run this on shutdown to clear condensation!

Still bought a uni breather, and am going to use that instead of the foam that will end up deteriorating and clogging everything up.

 

Thanks bud. That's the response I got. I'm thinking about trading the bastard in. Been through several f150's and 250's with no huge issues. And most of them were older body styles with a ton of miles. Kinda bullshit in my opinion . Such is life I guess. Live and learn

 

Block off plates will still need to be made or bought. Im going to make mine using exhaust gasket and a cut a small aluminum plate.

Ive been busy as all hell this week and havent got around to this yet. been riding my bike to work haha.

I have the resistors, the 4.7k tests at 4.6k so i hope its still good.

Figuring out the wires i need to tap into today and when im done ill post up how it went. Im going to make 2 incase it fails on me somewhere i can plug a new relay in

Edit: Got the wiring diagram for the 2012

The Maf wires are:
1= 12V power source Blue-White
2= MAF sensor ground Red-White
3= MAF sensor signal Red-Yellow
4= IAT sensor signal Red-Blue
5= IAT sensor Ground Brown
incase anyone doesnt know L is the blue code in the diagram