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Mid Travel BS 2.0

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by 2ndGenJonny, Jan 12, 2016.

  1. Feb 15, 2016 at 10:45 AM
    #1141
    2ndGenJonny

    2ndGenJonny [OP] Well-Known Member Vendor

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    Does the blue add travel or HP?

    :D
     
  2. Feb 15, 2016 at 10:49 AM
    #1142
    allmotorrex

    allmotorrex Grove St. Fab

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    This is actually very easy to do. I replaced all my studs with ARP extended studs with the hub on the truck. I used my stock lug nuts and as long as you use something like a few washers to keep from pulling the lug nut into the stud hole then you won't fuck up the end of it and can use 1 lug nut to seat all the studs. I didn't even use an impact, just a socket wrench. Took me about 1 1/2 hours to do both front hubs. I can imagine an impact making it just faster
     
  3. Feb 15, 2016 at 10:53 AM
    #1143
    allmotorrex

    allmotorrex Grove St. Fab

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    NWF crawlbox, 5.29s, rear Detriot, front Harrop, 37" SXIIs, 17x9" KMC Grenade Crawl beadlocks, Dirt King 3.5" LT kit with King shocks, Fox 12" smooth body RR, BAMF shock kit, AP 3" springs, ext. brake lines, custom 1 piece driveshaft with .135 wall tubeing, GSF front rock crawling bumper, GSF rear bumper, Relentless Fab ifs skid, BAMF k/o sliders, X2O 10K comp. winch, TP glass fenders, OKled 20"bar, EBS dimpled/slotted rotors, EBS green pads, custom K&N CAI, LCE headers, FM Super 44 w/h turn down, URD MAF, Spec clutch, LCE heavy flywheel, URD short shifter, TMPer M1 Abrams shift knob, Amsoil oil, Cobra 75wxst w/h 4' firestix, Grillcraft, FXR TRS, T1 eyelids, custom ADV Monster 60 lights, bed lights, speedo light mod, Glow Shift volt/oil pres gauges, Glow shift 2g column pod, Optima yellow tops dual battery setup w/h IBS system, Pioneer DEH-P7200HD head unit, Pioneer 600W 4ch & 350w 2ch amps for doors and sub, Wet Oakle covers
    No dummy. It adds swag. Duh
     
  4. Feb 15, 2016 at 10:57 AM
    #1144
    12TRDTacoma

    12TRDTacoma Powered by Ford, GM, VW, and Mercedes

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    ATF. Valvoline MaxLife Lol.
     
  5. Feb 15, 2016 at 11:05 AM
    #1145
    2ndGenJonny

    2ndGenJonny [OP] Well-Known Member Vendor

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    Yea, ATF sounds like a great way to keep my new seals functional for years to come.





    No thanks
     
    Blackout14 likes this.
  6. Feb 15, 2016 at 6:16 PM
    #1146
    ATLien

    ATLien Well-Known Member

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    Wound up being pretty easy. First stud took 45mins or so figuring out how to get the caliper off and popping off the disc. Put everything back together only to realize that another stud was cross threaded so badly it was basically shot (thanks again Firestone), took everything apart again in 20 mins and swapped the 2nd one in no time. Just need that video I posted above to give me a bit of confidence.
     
    Arcticelf and Glueman like this.
  7. Feb 15, 2016 at 6:28 PM
    #1147
    allmotorrex

    allmotorrex Grove St. Fab

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    NWF crawlbox, 5.29s, rear Detriot, front Harrop, 37" SXIIs, 17x9" KMC Grenade Crawl beadlocks, Dirt King 3.5" LT kit with King shocks, Fox 12" smooth body RR, BAMF shock kit, AP 3" springs, ext. brake lines, custom 1 piece driveshaft with .135 wall tubeing, GSF front rock crawling bumper, GSF rear bumper, Relentless Fab ifs skid, BAMF k/o sliders, X2O 10K comp. winch, TP glass fenders, OKled 20"bar, EBS dimpled/slotted rotors, EBS green pads, custom K&N CAI, LCE headers, FM Super 44 w/h turn down, URD MAF, Spec clutch, LCE heavy flywheel, URD short shifter, TMPer M1 Abrams shift knob, Amsoil oil, Cobra 75wxst w/h 4' firestix, Grillcraft, FXR TRS, T1 eyelids, custom ADV Monster 60 lights, bed lights, speedo light mod, Glow Shift volt/oil pres gauges, Glow shift 2g column pod, Optima yellow tops dual battery setup w/h IBS system, Pioneer DEH-P7200HD head unit, Pioneer 600W 4ch & 350w 2ch amps for doors and sub, Wet Oakle covers
    Hell yeah. Good job man.
     
  8. Feb 15, 2016 at 10:45 PM
    #1148
    gray223

    gray223 Well-Known Member

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    So I'm going to redo my rear shock relocation and measure it all out and do it right.

    I'm plaining on taking the leafs apart down to the main leaf. So when that leaf start going negative I should bump there. Correct? And the shock should be almost all the way collapsed. Correct? Maybe leave an inch?

    Then I need to let the axle droop and at this point the shocks need to be fully extended. Or almost fully extended.Correct?
     
  9. Feb 15, 2016 at 10:47 PM
    #1149
    NorthwestCruiser

    NorthwestCruiser Well-Known Member

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    I'd leave 1/2" at full stuff just to be safe, and strap it at 1/2" or so left. I blew my last shocks because I over extended them
     
  10. Feb 15, 2016 at 10:48 PM
    #1150
    gray223

    gray223 Well-Known Member

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    Sweet thanks!
     
  11. Feb 15, 2016 at 10:49 PM
    #1151
    NorthwestCruiser

    NorthwestCruiser Well-Known Member

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    :thumbsup: Get some other peoples opinion on here too though, more opinions the better!
     
  12. Feb 16, 2016 at 6:38 AM
    #1152
    Evenflow

    Evenflow Well-Known Member

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    Yes
    It is o.k for your leafs to go into negative arch, most leaf packs are designed to handle it. You would lose a ton of up travel for crawling if you bumped it before they went negative.

    When you strip your leaf pack down to cycle it it will actually be the top two leafs since those two are actually one long leaf due to the military wrapped end. It is important that you measure the overall thickness of the leaves you remove and cut a block of wood that exact same size and use the block of wood as a spacer between your axle and main leaf and bolt it all back together. This will ensure that your lower shock mount on the axle is at the exact correct distance while you are mocking it up and cycling it. If you don't do that you could end up off by a few inches. I did a whole write up a couple years ago with photos but it got nuked when the old mod travel travel went buh bye.
     
    gray223, Glueman and 2ndGenJonny[OP] like this.
  13. Feb 16, 2016 at 6:45 AM
    #1153
    2ndGenJonny

    2ndGenJonny [OP] Well-Known Member Vendor

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    Well said sir!

    Did you take a look and see if you had any of the King resi stickers left?
     
  14. Feb 16, 2016 at 6:47 AM
    #1154
    PLC721

    PLC721 Well-Known Member

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    Which resi do you need stickers for?
     
  15. Feb 16, 2016 at 6:52 AM
    #1155
    2ndGenJonny

    2ndGenJonny [OP] Well-Known Member Vendor

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    The 2.5s up front
     
  16. Feb 16, 2016 at 7:05 AM
    #1156
    PLC721

    PLC721 Well-Known Member

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    I might have some more they sent a variety with mine
     
  17. Feb 16, 2016 at 7:11 AM
    #1157
    2ndGenJonny

    2ndGenJonny [OP] Well-Known Member Vendor

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    It's probably the same pack I got from them. Those are all window decals. The actual resi ones are different. They don't bubble under heat.
     
  18. Feb 16, 2016 at 7:45 AM
    #1158
    Evenflow

    Evenflow Well-Known Member

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    Yes
    Yes, but I am afraid they are going to be too big for your front resi's. I have a set of the nice brushed aluminum background w/ blue text resi stickers but...they are 8.5" long so they must have come with my rear piggybacks because those have a bigger resi's.

    image.jpg
     
  19. Feb 16, 2016 at 7:46 AM
    #1159
    2ndGenJonny

    2ndGenJonny [OP] Well-Known Member Vendor

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    Yea, those may be too big for the front. Let me measure when I get home.
     
  20. Feb 16, 2016 at 11:53 AM
    #1160
    gray223

    gray223 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the info!

    Would you say leaving a 1/2 inch of shock travel at droop and bump sufficient? Or should I leave more.
     

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