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PLEASE HELP - TRUCK WONT START

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by rlofthouse, Feb 14, 2016.

  1. Feb 15, 2016 at 11:33 AM
    #41
    Silence9

    Silence9 Solve et Coagula

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    Ok. Best of luck.
    Do you have a multi-meter to test the fuses with? Sometimes the eye test isn't accurate with fuses. You need to use the Ohm (continuity) check to see if there is a path from one fork to the other. Before pulling your hair out over the wires, finish with the fuses, button all the hoses and stuff back up, clear any codes, unplug the battery for a while, and see if she fires up.

    When you tried to start it before, would the starter try to turn over? Or was there nothing when you turned the key?
     
  2. Feb 15, 2016 at 11:35 AM
    #42
    Benson X

    Benson X My build thread sucks...

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    What is this guy, and is he connected when you try to start it?
    IMG_1663.jpg
     
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  3. Feb 15, 2016 at 11:38 AM
    #43
    rlofthouse

    rlofthouse [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I do not have a multimeter.. Maybe ill go to sears and get one... When using a multimeter- do i still have to remove each individual fuse to test? Ive been inspecting the fuses in the box under the hood, And they all seem to be good....

    When trying to start, the starter would turn over... Just no ignition and a smell of gasoline from exhaust pipe..

    BensonX- yes that plug is plugged in when i try to start the car.
     
  4. Feb 15, 2016 at 11:41 AM
    #44
    Silence9

    Silence9 Solve et Coagula

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    It can't hurt. I have one since I'm an electrician by trade, but it comes in handy for several things around the home and automotive too.

    You either pop them out, put one probe onto one leg, and the other probe to the other leg; or you can fit your probes into the metal slots you see on either end of the "10." Set it to the Omega (ohms) symbol. Depending on the meter, it will either tone out (beep constantly) or it will show you a very small resistance.
    Your other option if you don't want to buy a meter, is to just buy some new fuses and replace the ones that are related to ignition etc.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2016
  5. Feb 15, 2016 at 11:47 AM
    #45
    rlofthouse

    rlofthouse [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Is there a digram anywhere with fuses just related to ignition? I thought it might be the AM2 fuse but it looks fine
     
  6. Feb 15, 2016 at 11:50 AM
    #46
    Silence9

    Silence9 Solve et Coagula

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    Does your year Taco have the change drawer underneath the steering wheel? It has this on the backside of it when you pop it out. There's one IGN there, I couldn't tell you which ones under the hood are IGN off the top of my head though, sorry.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2016
  7. Feb 15, 2016 at 11:53 AM
    #47
    rlofthouse

    rlofthouse [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Ya, i just took out the change drawer- we have identical fuse diagram. I will be checking these and keeping you all updated. Thanks so much for the help
     
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  8. Feb 15, 2016 at 12:02 PM
    #48
    rlofthouse

    rlofthouse [OP] Well-Known Member

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    UPDATE: Was finally able to get the truck started after a couple tries and putting it into first gear. LOT OF EXHAUST (WHITE SMOKE) AT FIRST COMING OUT THE EXHAUST PIPE.
     
  9. Feb 15, 2016 at 12:06 PM
    #49
    tomwil

    tomwil Well-Known Member

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    What was the solution?
     
  10. Feb 15, 2016 at 12:09 PM
    #50
    12TRDTacoma

    12TRDTacoma Powered by Ford, GM, VW, and Mercedes

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    Did it smell sweet like antifreeze or did it smell burnt like oil?
     
  11. Feb 15, 2016 at 12:11 PM
    #51
    rlofthouse

    rlofthouse [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I can now get the truck started, but it idles very very LOW... Could this be a COIL issue?

    To be honest, I don't remember what is smelled like (besides it being white). I more just ecstatic about getting the truck finally started.
     
  12. Feb 15, 2016 at 1:08 PM
    #52
    adanfon

    adanfon YNWA

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    :rofl:
     
  13. Feb 15, 2016 at 1:10 PM
    #53
    adanfon

    adanfon YNWA

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    No, you need to clean your throttle body, you reset the ecm by removing the battery. It will eventually relearn or you could clean the TB.
     
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  14. Feb 15, 2016 at 1:49 PM
    #54
    rlofthouse

    rlofthouse [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Whats the recomended cleaner to use?
     
  15. Feb 15, 2016 at 1:55 PM
    #55
    adanfon

    adanfon YNWA

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    Throttle body cleaner or carb cleaner. Do not use brake cleaner
     
  16. Feb 15, 2016 at 2:01 PM
    #56
    wilcam47

    wilcam47 Keep on keeping on!

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  17. Feb 15, 2016 at 2:27 PM
    #57
    Texoma

    Texoma IG: Triple C Chop Shop

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    A bunch a cool stickers, a bada ass MetalMiller Tx Longhorns grill emblem painted Hemi Orange, JBA long tube headers with o2 sims, Diff breather mod, Red LED interior lights, Fancy head unit that plays ipod n movies, Also DIY install factory stuff like, factory cruise control, factory intermittent wipers, OME nitro struts with 886x springs and toy tec top plate, JBA high caster UCA's for better alignmnet and dey beefier too, Old Man Emu Dakar leaf springs in da rear with the gear, U bolt flipper, Ivan Stewart TRD rims with 33" K Bro 2's, some bad ass weather tech floor liners so I don't muck up my interior, an ATO shackle flipper for mo travel in da rear wit the gear, also super shiny Fox 2.0 shocks back there too, all sorts of steal armor for bouncing off of the rocks like demello sliders, AP front skid, trans skid, n transfer skid, demello gas tank skid, and a tough as nails ARB bumper with warn 8k winch, I'm sure there's more
    Not carb cleaner, its not safe for sensors. Only TB cleaner for TB's and MAF cleaner for MAF's.
     
  18. Feb 15, 2016 at 2:34 PM
    #58
    adanfon

    adanfon YNWA

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    Yeah I wasn't 100% sure, I thought the stuff I used was for both but I looked and it's just for throttle bodies.
     

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