Homemade Crank Pulley Tool

Sub.

 

My tool did not make it out too well. Probably will revise for future uses or will buy the damn tool.



Getting it off was easy. Pulling the rad took me another 10 mins so I used an impact to remove. Torquing the bitch back on to spec though was another story.

 

Here's a picture of mine. No welding, just drilling with plenty of oil to drill through the steel. I used a 1/4" x 1" x 36" steel bar I bought at Lowes. I cut off 6.5" to make the Y-piece.



You need to use shorter bolts and a higher grade/class of bolts. These bolts were M8x1.25 class 10.9 (roughly equivalent to US Grade 8). I screwed them into the crank pulley holes, then turned the inner nut tight toward the tool to hold the bolt. I thought the force when torquing it would bend things a little, but the tool didn't even budge 1mm when torquing to 193 ft-lbs!

 

im in the process of doing the timing belt, waterpump, seals etc on a 3.4. my plan was just to make the tool for the crank bolt. what have you guys used for removing and torqing the cam pulley nuts ? from what i remember, the service manual says to use the same tool as the crank bolt. is that how you guys do it ?

one other question. so far ive got the belt covers and accesories off. whats the hose going from the small nipple on the side of the water pump ? looked like it went into the side of the block or something so i figured it was a bypass hose but not sure

 

http://www.tooltopia.com/lisle-38220.aspx

 

will it work on the 1st taco? its states that its universal but you never know

 

getting ready to do this job next weekend. If anyone in the Reno or Sacramento area has the pulley tool, I'd like to buy, rent, or borrow it please.

My other option is the breaker bar against the frame trick. Couple questions.. which way does the 3.4 rotate? I haven't been in there to check yet. Also, what electrical connections must I disconnect so I don't turn the breaker bar into a propeller?

 

Clockwise.
Some say to remove the efi relay, but i just clicked in the key, no worries,

 

It runs clockwise. You only need to "bump" the starter. Turn the key to start and as soon as you hear the engine start to crank, turn the key off. It only takes a split second. If you turn the key off immediately, the engine won't start. Do this at your own risk. I have done it probably seven or eight times and never had a problem. Works like a charm. Now getting that Crank bolt to 200 and something pounds is another story. I ended up buying the Schley tool and it was worth every penny. Nothing home made works as well. I tried the 2x6 approach, the metal bar and drill bits, etc.
The right tool for the job is priceless.

MY two cents.
JR

 

I think it's the oil cooler hose.

 

I think I'll just order the tool for next time

 

My harmonic balancer was on so tight, I had to weld two pieces of flat plate steel together to keep my grade 8 bolts from sheering off. Northern tool has a 48" x 1" breaker bar on the shelf. Just make sure you have a stout 19mm socket, I used an impact socket.

 

That tool looks very sturdy !

 

I just did my timing belt this weekend, I used basically this design, but kept bending the bar (both long and short pieces!) because I have He-Man strength (lol).

I have a welder, so I welded on another 36" piece to double the thickness. Then, I used a piece of 2" x 2" angle iron for the short piece, then used 3.5" long grade 8 8mm bolts (no nuts). The bolts were technically too long, but that didn't really matter because you want them to go in as far as possible so they don't move around as much. Then just slide the arms in so they are touching the pulley.

36" long makes it so you can rest the "handle" end on the ground, and that allows you to get both hands on the torque wrench.

If you don't have a welder, I'd suggest using angle iron for the longer bar, too.

I'll try to get a picture of what I did tonight...

 

It couldn't have been steel, or it wasn't thick enough (1/4").

 

most definitely steel, but it ws 3/16". So a little undersized, which is why I ended up doubling up on it.

The root of the issue I think was more likely that the 40mm bolts I had first weren't quite long enough, so they only went in the holes a small amount allowing the tool to twist, bending the arm under my he-man strength.

With the 70mm bolts I used (class 10.2 or whatever), they went all the way in, (still stuck out, so I could have used slightly shorter bolts) so the bolts couldn't twist and the too, stayed straight. Presto, 217 ft lbs.

 

I made a copy of your SST, worked like a charm. Used an impact wrench for removal but this tool was mandatory for install.

 

Whats the torque spec of the crank bolt?

 

Yours is most likely the newer style so 217 ft-lb.

 

what torque wrenches go to +200lb, my craftsmen sucks.