What you need to know about lifting a 2016 Tacoma - Presented by Toytec Lifts

It will rub. Period. That's what i have and in some off road situations i rub. ON street i have yet to rub.

Toytec boss 2.0 TC UCA AAl 285/70/17

Rubs.
no body lift, so spacers.

 

So basicly strut spacers with stock '16 coils are suspension suicide! Lol. Obviously one should avoid such said "spacer" lifts.... How about bilstein 5100 adjustable with stock coils?

 

Key thing is to stay at the 23 mark. The Bilsteins are not ideally valved for the springs on the 16's so i can't specifically recommend them. However many many people in this thread have used them with success.

 

Ok so if i get a Icon stage3 with UCR and run a 285/75/17 i may have some slight rubbing and make sure not to go more 1.5 threads on coil adjustment i will be good to go????? Or more then 23 inch from center hub to fender lip correct?????

 

I do recommend to stay at or below that 23" hub to fender mark but you might want to ask ICON as well as to what they recommend

 

So would adding the 1" body lift to the Boss kit reduce the rubbing or am thinking about this wrong. Also am I looking for trouble doing this

 

Thanks, not the answer I was hoping for, but honesty counts

 

Is the rub coming from the width 285 or the tire height 70 ?

 

I wonder the same thing. In a perfect world I'd like to move the tires out bound an inch or so, but I think that would exasperate the problem

 

If your in it for a better ride I would put the 5100s in rear as well. Overall found the truck less bouncy and more planted with them on all four corners.

 

Hmmmm.... makes me want to wait before pulling trigger then on my 5100s front. Good deal right now at 175 ea CAD to my door though.

If I had to guess- they're at least 1 year out for the proper R&D and production for the 2016' part numbers?! us OCD modders can't wait that long!

 

For what it's worth, I have an Icon Stage 2 installed (still running factory UCA's at this point). I started originally with my coils adjusted to 1.5" of thread showing but bumped them up to 1.75" of thread after a few weeks to compensate for settling and the fact that I left the factory overload leaf in rear for towing/hauling which propped up the rear a bit more than most. I have 285's and am not even close to rubbing, over an inch to the cab mount. Didn't rub at 1.5" of thread either. I think a lot of it has to do with the 7" rims I'm running and the lack of a lot of offset, etc. May get UCA's in the future but the dealer was able to align it just fine as is. I'm about 23.5" hub to fender in the front. More details in my build thread (link in signature).

 

Noob here and total rook to all this, so I apologize lol. Can someone please explain how to measure the difference between the front and rear tires/wheels, etc? I've been told it's a couple or so inches difference, but I wanna know where exactly I measure to and from. Thanks for any info and educating me!

 

At what amount of front lift do you need UCA's? I had 2" on my 2006 and was fine without replacing the upper but remembered people saying anymore and I would need to get them

 

On flat level surface measure from center of fender lip down to center of hub/wheel.

My drivers side is 1/4" lower then passenger side.

 

Thanks brother!

 

Anyone have insight on these uniball UCA?

http://m.ebay.com/itm/171376258342?...85&_trksid=p2141725.c100338.m3726&_mwBanner=1

I contacted the seller and waiting to hear back. At almost $500 discount compared to total chaos I'm a bit weary of quality . I'll let you know if I hear anything.

 

If you do get them let us know how they work out.

 

I've been looking at them too....i wish someone knew. Looks like a china version of the TC's, but if they work i'm ok with that.

 

I just spent some time on the trail. I really like this suspension. Didn't rub at all today. You may be ok.