Crankshaft Timing Pulley Removal help

Need to remove the crankshaft timing pulley to get the oil pump off. In the manuals, it requires the Toyota Puller set 09950-50012 which goes for $500ish.

Anyone know a cheaper puller or better way to get this off? I don't want to use jaw pullers that might put burs on the pulley and f-up the timing belt.

Timing Pulley:

 

So this pic is of your motor?
I had trouble with the fan belt pulley.
But if ur just talking about the splined timing belt pulley shown mine came off really easy just try using a pry bar behind it.

 

Would rather not use the pry bar just yet, or at all... If I knew what the treading was for the two puller holes, I could probably make a ghetto puller.

 

I'm sure it just M6 or m8. But it should come off easy.

 

What puller did u use for the damper?

 

Its pretty stuck

They belt pulley was stuck good too.

I used a pry bar and damaged the damper. So I just heated it and hit it with a hammer until it got loose and slid it off.

 

Have you tried removing that key? If you could get that out, the gear may come off easier. You could at least wrap the old belt on it and get some leverage to try and break it free.

Try any PB blaster, etc.? Plastic or hard rubber hammer will preclude gear damage if it needs a few whacks.

 

What key?

 

In the pic it looks like there is a key just to the left of the centerline. No?

There has to be something that 'lock's the gear to the crank to retain position.

If there is no key there, my apologies........... but I'd be curious to know what serves to hold the gear from rotating on the crank?

 

No, I think the 4 cylinders have a "key" but its like a half circle (???). The 5VZ doesn't. Nothing is locking it in place, I just think it was pressed on. Its probably not on too tight but there's no way for me to get a grip on it and the damn thing is so far back, there is no way to get a pry behind it.

I did find the threading. I used an old 10mm bolt from one of the brackets secured to the body and it threaded right in (M8 or M10?). Also found two "universal" puller kits:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BOLT-PULLER...8970&clkid=3461627769454313219&_qi=RTM2247626

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Crankshaft-...8970&clkid=3461628140326866010&_qi=RTM2247625

But they don't specify the thread size.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Harmonic-Ba...:g:w3wAAOSwuAVWwKM~&item=261636653675&vxp=mtr

This one has two M8-1.25 bolts.

 

This took me hours with my dad to figure out. We made a crank puller/breaker bar thing and even tried a chain rental one, but we ended up combining me pulling clockwise with the crank puller and him loosening the bolt (counter clockwise) with the air wrench (simultaneously) at like 170psi, just took rediculous force but we go it lmao good luck. And yeah use plenty of PB Blaster it's a godsend

 

So that's not a positioning key?

 

It looks casted into the crank?? Ill take a look at it but I don't think it comes out.

Damn, don't tell me that. Tell me it'll be easy and shit.

 

That is in fact a key, it locates the crank pulley, t-belt pulley and the crank sensor wheel behind it. I have removed at least a dozen and about half slid off after very light persuasion with a pry bar. The rest slid right off after breaking loose with a 2 bolt puller as shown below. I would not call the pulley an interference (press) fit. If it is, it's a "sliding" or "running" interference fit and "new", in the absence of any corrosion it should come off by hand. It should be simple enough to fab something up.
It's going to take a bit of "finesse" to pull the pump without dropping the oil pan.

 

Well, that makes me feel better. At least I'm not blind

 

Oil pan was dropped today, thanks for the input. You know exactly what thread bolt it took by any chance?

 

Go to OReilly's or Autozone (or whatever's local for you) and ask to borrow a pulley puller. Use your credit card or a $50 bill for a deposit that will be refunded when you return the tool. That's what I did. Took 45 minutes from when I pulled out of the driveway to when I pulled back in again after returning the tool. After a little "pop", the pulley came right off.

Or just buy one.

 

I used a puller with bolts threaded into those holes, and then I still had to lightly heat the gear with a torch before it came off. It is definitely keyed in place so it won't turn on the shaft.

 

Ill check it out.

Next question; how do you get it back on? And how does the "key work? As I replace the oil pan, are there any necessary steps to take to make sure timing doesn't get messed up?