Wobble under braking, wtf?

If your steering wheel shakes under braking your rotors COULD be warped. A good tech will determine that. Its not something you see with your eye. Once the diagnoses is made the tech will see this once the rotor is on the brake lathe. A rotor only has to be out a few thousands, and some front ends are more sensitive than others, as different drivers.

 

Okay yeah I need to do my homework because once the truck is there and they have them off ain't no need to put them back on without going ahead and replacing or whatever so I will need to see if I'm going to get them from the local parts store up the street from them or what if they need new rotors

 

When replacing the rotors - make sure the hub is clean where the rotor mounts. I usually take a dye grinder and clean the hub. A rusted hub not allowing the rotor to sit flush could also cause issues.

 

Okay kool. I've had the truck about a year I bought it used and it definitely was not doing it well it started doing it may be a few months ago but I guess you are referring to it could have rested since the last few months or so

 

Thanks for the tip.

I haven't done anything yet, been busy with other stuff. Gonna have a friend gimme a hand and I'll exchange the rotors for the same, considering they are warrantied. I'll throw new pads and try the new pen/return spring, whatever's in place.

If this next set get warped just as quickly, I'll look at upgrading rotors.

 

That's why I was asking which rotors at the Parts store what to look for what to ask for I'm sure there are lower end ones mid and high end ones

 

advance has carquest rotors, 35 each with electronic brake control and 32 without
napa has professional for 27, and Wagner for 43 each.

Pads Napa has a wagner for 41 a set, silencer 17 a set.

Advance pads are 38 for the gold, 17 for the silver. I will go with the wagner's or the gold for the pads and gotta decide which rotors.

 

Ended up getting the Napa rotors as they are made in the USA and that was important. Got their ceramic pads or which ever ceramic ones they had. As for the electronic brake control, it seems that some places were saying it doesn't matter and as long as you have the correct number of lugs and the correct size of the rotor you should be fine.

 

So,

Finally got around to replacing the brakes again. Found a broken pad return spring. $3 part that I think was cause for abnormal wear and the wobbling. So, threw new rotors, pads and springs in. Cleaned and lubed the pad retainer pins and back/side of pads. Did some breaking in of the brakes, so we'll see how these hold up! Was also interesting to note that the old pads (the ones with ~12K miles on them) appeared excessively worn, like 1/8" less material compared to the new pads. So, maybe they've been rubbing the entire time, which in turn probably killed my fuel economy as well.

Oh, and the wobble is gone.

 

what brand pads and rotors did you get this time? i still remember your truck from the customtaco meet days haha

 

I went with the Duralast again, since my old ones were still under warranty.

Yea it's been a few years since I've been to a Tacoma meetup, those were the good ol' days!

 

cool man

my wobble went away too. Wasn't told that my springs needed replacing.
hope all goes well

 

Good to hear!

I wasn't told about springs either, but when I went to change pads I just noticed spring was messed up, catastrophic failure I guess

 

I've never done brakes before but heard it wasn't bad at all. I will try one day. I am going to put a wheel cylinder on my 92 s 10 on saturday. Pass side rear

 

Front pads/rotors are real easy, compared to rear drums.

If you are going to replace just the cylinder in the rear, try to do it without completely removing the shoes. I was able to do that by just removing the shoe return spring, and separating the shoe ends just enought to clear the wheel cylinder. Save a lot of hassle if you are not replacing the shoes.

 

Watching a video on YouTube for the 92 S10 yeah after he pull the wheels off and removed whatever it is the Hub or something that just pulls right off then he takes the two Springs off then the cylinder line then the cylinder... so it really looks pretty easy overall