Help oil pressure issue

97 dlx 2.4

I changed my oil today and when I cranked my truck back up it sounded like it was knocking. I immediately shut it off looked under the hood nothing looked wrong so I restarted it. After 45-60 secs it idled normal but my oil pressure light was on. I checked the sensor and cleaned it. It was still on so I changed the oil filter again. It was still on so I thought maybe if I drive it will go off. After 3-4 miles my truck shut off it is not running good. I had it jacked up on the inside while I was changing the oil because i was rotating my tires as well. someone told me all the sludge may have hit the filter inside the oil pan and clogged it up. Is this possible. If so what should I do.

 

this doesn't seem like a problem we can really advise on. youre better off taking this one to a mechanic. if you keep up with regular oil changes, sludge shouldn't be a problem.

good luck bud.

 

Depending on how adventitious you are you could pull the oil pan and have a look at the pic up tube, your oil pump should just be a typical gear pump.

 

Yes but it's it possible that the screen is blocked with sludge. I have never had Ann issue before and I change my oil every 4000 miles. It has 260000 on it but it runs great no leaks smoke or anything. I saw some pics and it looks like there is a metal screen in there on the end of the oil pic up

 

I'm just not sure wanted to see if this is a possible solution before I pull the oil pan

 

Also is the oil pump in the oil pan our the front of the engine

 

Filter. Stopped up or incorrect. That would be my thought.

 

I bet it's an incorrect filter also

 

Ok so after pulling oil pan and removing oil pick up line there were big chunks of metal inside it pulled front covers off and oil pump had broke into pieces.

 

ouch......

 

What a terrible way for an engine to go.

 

Doesn't appear to be catastrophic I think when the pump broke no metal went through the engine it just feel down the pick up line every thing else appears fine I ordered a timing chain with cover oil pump and water pump kit. Have high hopes going to resemble when kit comes in

 

will the engine still turn easily if you turn the crank manually?

 

Its so weird it happened exactly with the oil change...

 

OP, I would almost bet that you have some microscopic bits of metal floating in the oil. Before you make your repairs and start it up again, pull the oil filter and drain the oil into a coffee filter or an old t-shirt and see f there is any silver flakes in it. If the oil is contaminated it'll show up there. If the oil pan is off, look in the bottom of the pan.

In the future, if you have a knocking noise, don't start it and drive for 3-4 miles and expect to make it home, unless you have a AAA card. Good luck, wishing you the best.

 

I had a oil pump break when I was running highway speeds. It took out the main and rod bearings and overheated the main webs and caps, but would still start and run. The motor was junk because of the burned up webs and caps. All of this happened in less that 5 miles. I wish you luck, but I don't think that your motor will survive.

 

I've never heard of an OEM oil pump spontaneously disintegrating. Where did you place the jack when you rotated the tires?

 

Finally Post #1 on TW!!! Sorry for the copyrights on a few images below. I have a guy on another board that loves to use my pictures as his own. What a world we live in.

I have a 2000 SR5 2.7 Manual that had the oil pump fail on the first startup from a full rebuild. I just finished Rebuild 2 this past weekend and will be creating a thread with tons of pictures to come for anyone else looking at doing this in the future. Anyway, I did my best to hand prime the oil pump on the second rebuild (see pictures below). As a side note, this motor ran for 10 seconds after it cranked and then died (I did crank it over several times without the EFI fuse in to build oil pressure using this method from other threads and recommendations). Anyway, I had metal shaving in the oil pan, pickup tube and a few on the cylinder head Intake Camshaft. I had to pull the motor and tear completely down. Wash everything out/clean and reinstall (new bearings on the crankshaft, etc.). I would recommend dumping the oil filter in a coffee filter. if you see metal shavings, DO NOT ignore it. pull the block and tear it down to have it cleaned. Metal shavings could be floating around in the oil galleys.

1. Oil Pump Failure:

2. Close Up of Oil Pump:


3. Bottom of Oil Pan (Ran for 10 seconds after cranking to build pressure a few times -> no determination when it failed).


4. Timing Cover after pump failure!


5. Priming Sequence for new pump (at least this is how I did it).

step 1. Flip the motor upside down and pour oil in the pickup tube hole in the timing cover until it is full.

Step 2. Use a small screwdriver (flat head in my case) to spin the oil pump CLOCKWISE.




Step 3. Refill pickup tube hole and continue spinning the oil pump closwise until oil comes out of the oil filter bracket.


Step 4. Install the pickup tube and gasket and torque to spec.

Step 5. Fill the pickup tube completely full of oil.

Step 6. Take Transmission Assembly Goo (thanks Bamatoy1997) and smear it on the pickup tube screen. This will help seal the pickup tube to create vacuum when you flip it back over and install in the truck. This is how I did it. I am in no way an expert mechanic, but the "toyota" method of keep cranking it over until it builds oil pressure is beyond ridiculous!

Don't forget to install the oil filter (fill with oil before installing) after flipping the motor again.

 

You NEED to pull at least a main cap, if not all the caps/rods and check your bearings. @pofarm and @GA-3RZFE referred to bearing issues. I had low oil pressure and a knocking noise too. If it's a lighter tick, maybe it's just the top end not getting oil. In my specific case with a louder knock I had a severely worn balance shaft bearing which caused loss of oil pressure and I ended up melting every last one of my main/rod bearings.

So definitely check your bearings to be sure you haven't damaged them. I'll bet that because you have a knocking sound there's more problems than a broken oil pump. I don't recall if 2.4s have balance shafts, but if they do, it's worth pulling them out to check them.

If your main/rod bearings are worn, but the crank looks fine, it is possible to roll in new bearings without removing the crank. I did it a couple weeks ago with some guidance from @BamaToy1997 (what would we do without him?)


Bad balance shaft bearing


Melted main bearing

You should post this up in the thread I created so we can get this information in one place.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2-3rz-oil-system-photo-reference.414616/

 

Add all info above to your thread.