Bilstein 5100 with stock springs

Functionally, it can be done. It all depends on your preferred ride quality.

 

Well, I was on the fence for the past week trying to decide between doing a full lift with the OME kit, or just replacing my shocks (which needs to be done...sitting at 75K miles now). I decided to put off doing the lift for now and just ordred the set of Bilstine 5100s. Headstrong Offroad has them on sale for just $319 for a full set of 4. My reasoning is that since there is a Toyota factory recall on the leaf springs, and mine are not broken (yet), I would hold off and wait for Toyota to replace the 3-leaf pack I have with a better pack (probably a 4 leaf pack). Then I can just do an add-a-leaf (AAL) for much less money that say buying the OME Dakar full leaf pack. No way am I going to do an AAL with the factory springs under recall.

Given that the front 5100s are adjustable, I plan to raise the font a bit to level the truck. Has anyone done this on a 2nd TRD? I'm hoping anyway that that will work out, using the stock OEM springs. I measured height on my truck as it sits now, before I change out the shocks, from center of axle to top of fender, both with an empty tank of gas and full. Here's what a measured:
Empty Tank: Front 19.5", back 21"
Full Tank: Front 20" back 21" .
So, looks like the factory rake is about 1 to 1.5", depending on load.

I'll post more and some pics after I get the 5100s on.

 

Plenty of folks have done 5100's with stock springs. On the higher settings it preloads the springs enough that some dislike the ride quality. YMMV - seems to be very subjective around here.

Lifting the front before you do anything in the back will give you the "bro lean", and reduce handling characteristics/mpg (there's a good reason trucks, including ours, have a factory rake).

You'll want to measure left and right sides before and after. Never forget, Taco Taco Burrito.

 

How did you realign your truck after the lift? Just take it to a shop?

No lift in the rear?

 

Were the u-bolts the correct length??/Did u have to trim excess?/Do u have the factory 2+1 or 3+1 springs? I want to do a 1" block also, but want to get the right kit from the start. Thanks...

 

An AAL is also pretty cheap ($60-70$) for a rear lift. New U-Bolts not required for most of them, and it gives you better ride/load characteristics.

My $.02c.

 

Do you think the block in the back could have been avoided had you got the 5100's for the rear as well?

 

@TheJuanAndOnly - No, the 5100's for the front are struts and provide lift. The 5100's for the rear do not add lift. You need AAL/leaf pack/block/shackles/other to gain rear lift.

Once you have rear lift, the need for new rear shocks arises. The stock'ers dont have much extra travel and will max out with 2+ inches.

 

Will 275/70/17's fit under the 2" bilstein setup?

 

They'll fit with no lift, but you may rub on the mudflaps.

 

What about the 285/70/17 I've been looking at those too

 

Results vary with 285's from what I've read, but it seems 2" minimum is necessary, plus wheels with 4.5 or more backspacing (or spacers), and then often the cab-mount chop is necessary too.

 

If I set my bilsteins at 2.5 in the front with 1" leaf or block in the back think it would fit?

 

Fit, yes. Would it still rub... maybe. It would most surely rub a little at full articulation. Could you fix the rub? Yes, depending on where/how much rub you get.

With this setup you may get "bro lean" which is front higher than the rear - not a good look (in many folks, including my own, opinion) and the rake does impact handling/braking. Front higher = not as good for handling.

Its generally advised against to go to 2.5 on the Billies without coils. Its possible, yes, but impacts ride quality. I dont have personal experience though.




In general, it seems liek 285's are just not "that easy" on these trucks. You can put them on for sure, but you cant do it right and without rub for cheap.... I know, it sucks. I recently came from a Nissan Xterra that got a very useful 2" of lift for $60. Not the same here.

Even at 2.5 you're looking at maybe needing wheel spacers or a different offset, potentially cab mount changes, and removing/altering mud flaps.